Line them up, mark pinch seams, drill marks, insert bolts into pinch seam, drive in the self tappers to the frame rail.

 

I assume I have to mark and drill into the frame rail as well right?

 

Still trying to figure out where the vacuum line goes for the Fuel Evap on my 90 XJ.

 

He said self tappers, you shouldn't have to drill a hole for them

 

thanks guys

 

I've got one more question about the fluid swap in my ax15 hahaha
is there anyway to fill the tranny back up other than the fill plug? Thought I heard something about poring it in where the shifter is? How do,I,do,that? Thanks for the help guys

 

Lol yes. You have to remove the center console and shifter from inside the cab. This writeup mentions how the shifter comes out: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...change-865520/

 

I didn't. Just drilled the self tappers in.

 

This help?

 

CV axles instead of U joint style? Have an egged out half shaft an ujoint caps fell out. Wanna replace axle shafts but don't wanna pay 100+ for one side. Found CV style set for 140

 

Junk. Get some from a JY or local market place. Since you have a '93 it won't be a downgrade to run anything from any XJ, MJ, TJ, or YJ. Just avoid vacuum disconnects on the passenger side.

 

U will wind up moving the weak point to the gear set instead of the u-joints on the shafts. Might be more of a PITA to replace the gears on the trail as opposed to just u joints. Food for thought

 

I dropped the rear driveshaft in my 92 cherokee sport, limped down the mountain and drove around the corner using 4 high and parked it in front of my friends house. Is it safe to drive it back to my shop which is half an hour away on the highway using 4 high?

 

I see. U joint is stronger then uv joint. LOL

Uv joints can be replaced for under $40, cv joints are more costly not as easy to fix or replace unless you have a spare shaft. I'd say if the cv is cheaper to for it It will feel smoother driving in 4wd on dry surfaces when turning.

They are used on many awd vehicles successfully. Just keep an eye on the cv boots. Any open crack in them means imminent failure soon.

 

It'll be okay as long at the transfer case has fluid. Top it off and use a latex glove and zip ties or something to cover up the rear output so it doesn't loose fluid.