I grounded a subwoofer there for a while. Not the best location but it works. A compressor pulls a good amount of amps, be sure and make a good connection. During compressor operation, check ground wire and feel if it is hot.

 

Alright thanks a lot. I'm gunna go for it. What will happen if it gets hot. What's worst case scenario here. Thanks again

 

How do I post questions sir

 

If it gets hot, then it is not an acceptable ground or wire gauge.

Success, you just did. You can edit the post to include your question.

 

'93 Wrangler
I6, auto, NP231, D30/F8.8
Just like an XJ except I have a single cardan front DS (not CV).

When rolling the Jeep on flat ground (engine off, trans in N, TC in N) I get a loud pop from the front that sounds like something is binding. I can't seem to relate it directly to a number of tire or DS rotations. Popping occurs 1-2 times in a rolling distance of about 15ft.

I know it's vague, but any ideas?

 

If I had a dollar for every time someone on a forum has said they did a tune-up but only replaced the plugs actually, I'd be retired.........

I'm proud of you.

 

My cherokeeforum educated guess would be a u-joint. Perhaps immediately after the pop, try to move a u-joint. Also just before a pop try and move the joints, looking for any difference in feel. If you are on smooth and level ground, can lay under jeep and rotate the DS to move jeep, feel for the pop.

 

My garage brain kicked in after my post, and I got wise. I've isolated it to spinning the driver side front tire, and the popping is independent of wheel speed or rotational travel.

Can I get a quick refresher from somebody on diagnosing a problem between these parts:
Ball joint
Ujoint
Hub

Thanks, fellas

 

04 WJ 4.0 Cali emissions. Has anyone run headers and added dual exhaust to this set up? Is it worth the money to add another pipe? I'm looking at adding a header either way, just don't want to do the work twice. i KNOW I HAVE TO KEEP THE PRE-CATS AND ALL FOUR O2 SENSORS, JUST CURIOUS BEFORE I WASTE SOME CASH ON SOMETHING I DON'T NEED TO.

 

Ball Joint = place axle on jackstand with wheel off ground. From front of jeep place 4'+ long prybar or 2x4 between tire and ground, lift on bar and watch ball joints for any movement.

U-joint = axle on jackstands, turn steering left or right some then rotate wheel. Look for movement in joint and listen for odd sounds.

Hub = axle on stands, grab wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and with one hand pulling the other pushing, feel for movement. Also try different hand positions. This will not rule out a bad bearing because they will usually drag or grind before they become loose. An IR temperature gun works great for diagnosing a bad wheel bearing.

 

Thank you very much. I'm thinking it's the hub cause it started grinding as well as popping more frequently when I test drove it. I'll go ahead and check the ball joints while I'm at it

EDIT: Ball joints need love, too

 

Yes both show accurate numbers and the old plugs were just dirty but not super bad im kinda leaning more towards a burnt valve now i just got my noid light in the mail so ill test the injector leads

Update: so i tested all the injector harness and they test out good i guess my next step is to pull the head and check for a burnt valve or cracks i mean ive checked everything right ? Im not worried about pulling the head that's a easy hour job to get it off. Now while I have it off should I rebuild it or will i destroy the bottom end ?

 

Well, the symptoms sound correct, but I don't think it's the fan because it doesn't happen when I use the heat or the vent... just a/c.

Is it true that sometimes flushing a transmission will free up gunk that's clogging a leaky seal and cause it to leak?

 

That's a risk when you flush any system. The thing is, though, that it isn't breaking anything; it's revealing a breakage. It is worth noting that if you flush a transmission the proper way, it sees the same pressure and direction of flow as normal. This means the chance of dislodging something is slim.

 

good to know, thanks.