Cargo area floor is thin, you'll want to sandwich it with some plate and bolt your tiedowns through.

 

Way to say what I said...

 

no u

 

I have repaired all of the rusted out spots on the floor of my 1990 Limited that I call "The Red Pony". Since I plan on keeping it and passing it on to my youngest son at some point I made sure the repairs would last so I started by cutting out all of any rust damage around the holes and then using stainless or aluminum fasteners I screwed or riveted aluminum sheetmetal patches in place. I then used J- B Weld to fill any remaining holes or gaps. I am very "Big" on J-B Weld and prefer to use it with a thin topping of Bondo on All bodywork as the J-B Weld does flex and will Not crack or fall off like Bondo does over rough terrain.

 

FWIW, after a bad experience at a brake shop for routine changing of pads and rotors, I took it to the dealer to replace both front calipers that the previous shop broke and change brake fluid while they were at it. Dealership told me the soft pedal feel was due to the non-OEM parts I used. The next day, I found a hairline crack in the brake booster tubing. $2 later, it was fixed.

 

Ok I'm stumped. What is the little dust seal thing called at the end of the drive shaft on the cv end. I can't seem to Google correctly and locate it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

The debris guard? I can't remmber it's official name. #24 here

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-ax...kee-xj.htm#24t

Black plastic thing on the left?

 

Actually I went with axle seals to replace those plastic caps, I hope they work out better, my plastic guards were broken in pieces.

No the part I'm talking about is on the front drive shaft, the centering ball portion of the CV joint sticks into this rubber guard to keep junk out. What is that rubber guard?

 

Is there a separate gasket for the t-stat, or just the gasket for t-stat housing? Saw a video with a guy using a little o-ring of sorts on the t-stat, but I only have the main one for the housing. Thanks.

 

That rubber piece is a rubber dust shield to keep firt out of that spring area because there are needle bearings in the ball. This is the crucial part of what makes the double cardan joint work. Dennysdriveshafts has an entire rebuild kit that includes this dust shield. Here is mine without said shield.

 

No stat gasket; just the housing. The stat sets into a little recess

 

Good idea on the "seals". The plastic guards are not that great.

The only shield I'm familiar with in that area is a metal "slinger" attached to the front yoke. Like this:



If you mean within the double-cardan, i thought that was all part of a rebuild kit for the centering ball?

 

Okay thought so.

 

Thanks salad and nightrider. Yes, your right double cardon. To many nights under the jeep wearing my brain out. My kit didn't come with the seal. It came with just the ball and crush seal - but note to self, next time it will have the outer seal. dennysdriveshaft to the rescue, two dust shields on order!
Cheers!

 

98 Jeep Cherokee Limited - approx 155K miles. Need Help with trans problem. Put in 4wd and truck would hardly move, shifted back to 2wd and truck moved forward slowly. Trans has loud knocking sound. When I shift to low (1/2) it will proceed as normal and once truck is underway it seems to drive, shift, downshift and hit passing gear all okay. Problem is only when taking off from stop. I am trying to find out what the knocking is, which has gotten progressively much worse combined with drive not working correctly, Truck was operating great before this ocurred. Drove about 50-60 miles Sunday morning, parked for about 3-4 hours, started and drove about five miles when this started. I thought the loose flywheel could be the problem except truck proceeds normally when shifted into low and then manually shifted up into drive going down the highway. Not much else to say just need some thoughts on probable causes before sending to tranny shop and $$$. Please help. thanks