Break in wire insulation? Broken wire?

 

Perfect, the answer I needed

 

(Seinfeld voice)
Deathwobble what's the deal with that?
One minute your driving down the road, and the next WHAM forget about trying to steer.

Ok so I know there are tons of threads on this but I have a small question about one of the methods of diagnosing, I've read a lot of "jack it up and have a friend move the steering wheel to see if anything is moving in a way it shouldn't"
Question how much should the steering wheel be moved are we talking lock to lock or rocking back and forth past The Dead Zone, or a little of both?

 

90% of that is looking for slop when you change direction. Something that stays in place for a moment or doesn't move the same way everything else does. For example, The track bar might stay in place until everything else has moved 1/8 or even 1/4 of an inch.

The other 10% is just everything else. A loose nut, a cracked component, a bent link, etc

 

Hi there. Newbie here. I want to sell a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2 L V8. 163xxx miles. I drove it for years until my son took it over for 7 years. It's been sitting for 1.5 years. Everything is stock. I popped a battery in it, and it started right up.

The check engine light came on and the code was for misfire on cylinder 1. Changed spark plugs, wires, rotor. Check engine Light went off.

Someone took it for a test drive & it was shuddering while he was driving it. His mechanic said it was the rear end or fuel pump & would cost 3-5k to fix Check engine light came back on. I have no idea what the code is now.

All that and all I want to know if anyone has had this issue & how much it costs to fix??? I lowered the price to low blue book (1600.00). Any advice would be appreciated!

 

​​​​​​
Even if you're by yourself, prop your phone up and record a video while you turn the wheel back and forth. It was evident my trackbar was bad on the axle side.

 

Fortunately this is not for me (at least not yet) my best friend just installed a rough country 3" and now has DW. I remembered reading that and figured I'd give him the heads up.
Thanks for the advice guys.

 

This. Exactly this.

Prime example, my friend just bought a ZJ. We noticed A TON of play in the steering wheel. I laid down under it while he turned the wheel, basically from slop to slop with the motor running. First thing I noticed was the drag link. Replaced the drag link and noticed the frame-side track bar bushing was loose. Tightened it up and then the BIG problem surfaced, the output shaft seal on the steering gear box.

So basically an ENTIRE steering system later.... he'll have no more slop in the steering.




There's also castor angle to consider, control arms bushings, tire balance, "toe in", and tire "round". All of these are things to consider when diagnosing deathwobble. BUT, start with the steering, because it's usually the "easiest" thing to detect slop in.


Click for full res

 

I have a 2000 cherokee sport. Recently it wont start part of the time. It acts like the battery is completely dead (no lights or key buzzer sound, nothing) sometimes i turn the key again and it starts right up. Sometimes not. The battery is good, Sunday we cleaned all the connections, replaced the terminals and thought it was fixed. But yesterday it wont start again, i was going to try to jump start it incase it was the battery, but when i opened the back hatch to get my jumpstarte, the dome light came on. So i tried to start it and it started right up.
I was thinking maybe the ignition switch is bad. A couple months ago my wipers, windows, and radio all quit working. They would all work with the key on, but with the car running if i tried to use the window or wipers they would all quit working again. If i shut the jeep off and then turned the key on for a sec then started it they would work until i tried the window or wiper switch again. After a couple weeks the problem went away.
Does all of this sound like it could be in the ignition switch?

 

how hot and firm should the upper radiator hose get during normal operation? i went under the hood yesterday after a drive from work, and the upper hose is warm but i can leave my hand for a good 5-6 seconds before it gets too hot to the touch. it's also not firm, but i can squeeze it and touch my fingers through the hose, is that normal?

as far as i know i bled the system correctly, but i remember one time doing the same thing and it was so hot i couldn't leave my hand sitting, and it was tight, filled with coolant.

 

How old are the hoses?

 

Hi folks

I searched and did not find answers to my questions. If you can post a link to a thread that will also work for me.

I am doing a V8 swap into my '92 XJ
I need to replace the fuel pump as the tank and pump assembly is contaminated badly.

My questions:

1) I am buying a new complete pump assembly but have concerns if the stock 4.0 pump will deliver enough fuel.

2) I need 60 psi from the pump. Is their an internal pressure regulator in the pump that I can gut?

3) I've removed the pump resistor and the PCM for the V8 is controlling the fuel pump via a relay I have installed, nothing XJ remains. Can I run the pump on straight battery voltage?

Thanks

 

Cleenrob is finishing up an LS swap in his XJ.... Here's his thread

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...t-time-161909/

 

Your radiator cap may be FUBAR.

 

hoses are relatively new and i don't think that's my issue.

i have a spare one, i will try that.

let's say there is an air bubble or the cap is toast and doesn't let pressure build, that would make the jeep overheat quicker right? or at least boil over and i'd notice it in the overflow tank. yet, i have not overheated it and temps are always normal even when checking with an IR gun..