^^cool and nice set up. i will definitely try to make it work..
last time i messed with it, i got it snug (before it would go loose again) and left it.
my xj prolly only gets about 50 miles a month unless i go on a hunting trip
i'm also thinking that since i leave my front sway connected, that will help keep it from popping out...


but i definitely will try to fix it one of these days

 

I wheel mine and daily drive it no problems. If you do it do it, if not probably won't hurt anything.

 

anybody ever run rusty 3in spring with 2-1/4 spacers in the front with no sway bars and stock control arms?
pros and cons

 

Don't. You need much more at 5" of lift

 

My jeep is starting to stumble when its 95F and higher out. Seems to not do it when its cooler out, or I go into the mountains. Could I be getting heat soak issues? It's a 99 but I might try to do the 00-01 solution for the injector heat wrap. No other overheating issues, or anything.

 

X2 terrible idea.

 

If you want. It won't hurt. The 2000+ problem is because of the extra catalytic converters under the hood. You don't have those.

You could have an issue with the Intake Air Temperature sensor. Fairly simple to test. Compare it to the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor with a multimeter when they're cold - should have the same resistance - or this chart:



Or, with an OBD-II scanner, you can compare values and do a basic sanity check on them.

If those check out I'd start looking at other components.

 

I wired in a kill switch for the fuel pump. Starting from the battery back. 14ga wire, in line fuse (15amp fuse inside), 15amp switch and 14ga wire to the pump. And it's getting noticeably warm. Should I be concerned or is it ok? All the components I was told would work fine but nothing ever said anything about the hot switch should I use a bigger switch or bigger wire? Or is a fire not an issue?

 

I have a 1991 Cherokee XJ Inline 4.0. I am needing to replace the two grommets and both CCV valves. I know one has an orifice and the other doesn't. I have been trying to find a website or part #s so I can order all pieces form the same place. I'll find a CCV on one website while the other one they carry says it will not work with my model year. Same with the grommets. After 2 hours of reading and searching I am more confused and reluctant to order any and possibly having to deal with having to ship parts back and forth. Could anyone out there point me in the right direction? Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

 

Neither. You should use a relay in-line. Takes the power-handling duties from the switch, so all the switch does is send a signal to the relay to turn on. Think of the relay as a heavy duty switch. Just remember, you already have a relay for the fuel pump circuit. So now, with the kill switch wiring in place, you have another potential failure point in the circuit. Just keep that in mind if you start to experience problems with your fuel pump.

Here ya go

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...driveLine=9359

 

Exactly. Undo whatever you put in and hook it up to the relay. Easiest would be to break the ground for the relay, then you only need one wire to your switch.

 

I have 3 relays in mine (87 xj with 2.5l) any idea which is the fuel pump? And with what I did the relays are currently out of the loop. I tapped into the factory power wire just before the connector as advised by my grandpa (mechanic for 47 years) so instead of the wire attached to the battery go to the relay?

 

There ya go, ground interrupt switch. I used to do that all the time to have selectable power to my amps for subs.... learned from my friend's mistake that you don't run the switch to the power wire - you run it to the remote wire. Just opens and closes the circuit to the switch on the sub.

 

so which wire on the relay would I run the switch off of? Like what color? the kill switch was my first ever electrical job. And that was with brief instructors from someone out of town. So I'm clueless about most of it. Did it anyway so I could take more pride in my jeep and say I built it to what it is. The pink and black is power. The black is ground and the middle for the gauge on the connector. Attach it to the black then since it's ground?

 

i need to replace the tranny lines on my XJ (96) and was wondering if it's possible to replace the fittings on the radiator? it's leaking at the small hole like so many others, and while i'll be adding a tranny cooler i was thinking of using brass fittings to replace the stock ones and secure the new tranny hoses to those.

is that even possible or the fittings on the radiator are fixed and can't be removed? if it's possible what size fittings are used on the radiator?