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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 09:17 PM
  #56851  
mindopnr's Avatar
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Unhappy Ready to pull my hair out!!!

I let someone borrow my jeep. They told me it was running really rough and broke down. I towed it back to my house. Trying to make an extremely long question short I'll skip forward to 2 weeks ago. First I put a new starter, alternator, and battery in it. Reason being I thought the alt. going out caused the other two to fail. After messing with it cussing and fussing, I read about the n.s.s.. So. Took it out cleaned it up, followed all the proper steps, reverse lights did come on but still no start. I finally got pissed off ripped the plastic pieces around the ignition off (didn't break them though) took the cylinder out wiggled a few things like I knew what I was doing, and was just looking for anything out of place...nothing was. As I'm putting the ignition back in and turned the key, it actually started to start.... And finally it did. It did run extremely rough, almost like it had jumped timing or something to that effect. Please keep in mind I am a great carpenter, but not that great of a mechanic. My question is this: The running rough could be wires plugs I'm sure but what is happening with the not starting, and if it's a ground issue, could that cause a part of the extremely rough idle. It's a 97 Jeep cherokee country 4.0L A wonderful vehicle and I want to drive it again. I used to call it ole reliable.
Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:17 PM
  #56852  
93XJeeper's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ReconCherokee
Do they make a special tool for getting this nut out of there? Lol
impact gun or,I made a special bracket out of a long piece of angle iron, just drilled some holes and it bolts to the yoke and and has a hole in the middle to get socket on nut. So when you turn the wrench, the angle iron swings down and hits the floor, keeping the yoke from turning while you break the nut loose
Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:43 PM
  #56853  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ReconCherokee
Do they make a special tool for getting this nut out of there? Lol
Monkey wrench on the yoke and one of those impact thingies on the nut. Easy peasy, electric will do.

Originally Posted by mindopnr
I let someone borrow my jeep. They told me it was running really rough and broke down. I towed it back to my house. Trying to make an extremely long question short I'll skip forward to 2 weeks ago. First I put a new starter, alternator, and battery in it. Reason being I thought the alt. going out caused the other two to fail. After messing with it cussing and fussing, I read about the n.s.s.. So. Took it out cleaned it up, followed all the proper steps, reverse lights did come on but still no start. I finally got pissed off ripped the plastic pieces around the ignition off (didn't break them though) took the cylinder out wiggled a few things like I knew what I was doing, and was just looking for anything out of place...nothing was. As I'm putting the ignition back in and turned the key, it actually started to start.... And finally it did. It did run extremely rough, almost like it had jumped timing or something to that effect. Please keep in mind I am a great carpenter, but not that great of a mechanic. My question is this: The running rough could be wires plugs I'm sure but what is happening with the not starting, and if it's a ground issue, could that cause a part of the extremely rough idle. It's a 97 Jeep cherokee country 4.0L A wonderful vehicle and I want to drive it again. I used to call it ole reliable.
I strongly suggest you start a new thread and take the time to write everything out. I'm not sure quite what the problem you have is or what you've done other than clean the NSS and rip the steering column apart
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 08:06 AM
  #56854  
VTJeep's Avatar
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Posts: 4,930
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From: 802
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Suspension design never changed. They'll fit
Cool, thank you!

Originally Posted by mindopnr
I let someone borrow my jeep. They told me it was running really rough and broke down. I towed it back to my house. Trying to make an extremely long question short I'll skip forward to 2 weeks ago. First I put a new starter, alternator, and battery in it. Reason being I thought the alt. going out caused the other two to fail. After messing with it cussing and fussing, I read about the n.s.s.. So. Took it out cleaned it up, followed all the proper steps, reverse lights did come on but still no start. I finally got pissed off ripped the plastic pieces around the ignition off (didn't break them though) took the cylinder out wiggled a few things like I knew what I was doing, and was just looking for anything out of place...nothing was. As I'm putting the ignition back in and turned the key, it actually started to start.... And finally it did. It did run extremely rough, almost like it had jumped timing or something to that effect. Please keep in mind I am a great carpenter, but not that great of a mechanic. My question is this: The running rough could be wires plugs I'm sure but what is happening with the not starting, and if it's a ground issue, could that cause a part of the extremely rough idle. It's a 97 Jeep cherokee country 4.0L A wonderful vehicle and I want to drive it again. I used to call it ole reliable.
Originally Posted by salad
Monkey wrench on the yoke and one of those impact thingies on the nut. Easy peasy, electric will do.



I strongly suggest you start a new thread and take the time to write everything out. I'm not sure quite what the problem you have is or what you've done other than clean the NSS and rip the steering column apart

I'm a little vague on the details too and have more Q's than A's: Did the rough running and eventual breakdown lead to all of this, or did you lend the jeep and then it started? It's a 97 so OBD-II, any CEL or have you hooked up a scan tool to see if theres any stored codes? Any other tune up done? My usual list is:
-plugs/wires
-cap/rotor
-TPS
-IAC
-(maybe) ignition coil
-o2 sensor (probably just the upstream and an OEM replacement, no knockoffs!)
-remove, disassemble and clean the TB
-1/3 can of Sea Foam thru the brake booster line (other 2/3 can be used in gas and oil)

Specifically to your issue:
-load test bat/alt
-refresh/replace grounds
-dielectric grease
-fuel delivery issue

Does it like to just crank but not start?
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 10:14 AM
  #56855  
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
Might be a newer one. My 1999 and 2001 have a twist in them
Do you think I should replace it with a kinky one? If its straight it might be reaching further down into the pan and I might be underfilling
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #56856  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Do you think I should replace it with a kinky one? If its straight it might be reaching further down into the pan and I might be underfilling
Have you measured its length?
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 02:41 PM
  #56857  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Do you think I should replace it with a kinky one?
Originally Posted by salad
Have you measured its length?
:worm:
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 03:18 PM
  #56858  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
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Forgive the picture rotation on mobile. Is this a good double flare?

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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 03:51 PM
  #56859  
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Joined: Mar 2016
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Model: Cherokee
Default headlamps not working

Hey there. I have a mechanical question. We have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. The head lights aren't working. Lamps were replaced in the summer. The switch was replaced and the lights worked. Now the lights aren't working again. I just bought a new switch again and nothing. All the fuses are good. When the switch is turned on, the turn signals and head light icons on the dash light up. but no lights. Im ready to pull my hair out. Any suggestions?
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 03:59 PM
  #56860  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by sandfam10
Hey there. I have a mechanical question. We have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee. The head lights aren't working. Lamps were replaced in the summer. The switch was replaced and the lights worked. Now the lights aren't working again. I just bought a new switch again and nothing. All the fuses are good. When the switch is turned on, the turn signals and head light icons on the dash light up. but no lights. Im ready to pull my hair out. Any suggestions?
Which switch did you replace, the headlight **** or the high-low beam on the steering column?

How high of a wattage bulb are you using?

The XJ headlight system is very marginal at best. It is likely that you are just burning out components. An aftermarket wiring harness is recommended
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 04:06 PM
  #56861  
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Model: Cherokee
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the **** switch. stock lamps from autozone.
Old Nov 12, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #56862  
mindopnr's Avatar
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I will do that, but I do appreciate the info. Have a wonderful day.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 01:52 PM
  #56863  
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by raminboy
I don't want to sound stupid... but it looks like the axles are still in?
In the picture they are... I would HOPE he removed the cross pin and shafts prior to asking the question though.
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 09:29 PM
  #56864  
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Old fart with a wrench
 
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by ReconCherokee
Do they make a special tool for getting this nut out of there? Lol
That nut needs about 200 lb/ft of torque to remove. Pipe wrench with cheater pipe and LOOOONG ratchet!
Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:46 PM
  #56865  
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Posts: 41
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From: wisconsin
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l h.o.
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New question. Bought this '98. Dude gave me a couple of what he called "lockers" for the front end. Look like a couple of hole cutters for a lock set. Good, bad, I don't know? Help me out here. What's the locker of choice? If these are good, I'll put them in, but the fact that the mechanic I bought the truck from didn't, is troublesome. Nervous Nellie perhaps, but if I'm going to do the front end again (yes, I had to redo after purchase), I want to make sure. Wife won't know till we drive to the bread line.



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