Maybe a very mild lift and some bigger tires. That's all you need for your scenario. A lift and tires drastically changes the look of a vehicle

 

[QUOTE=mmurphy536;3328303]I was replacing the steel brake lines that run from the front to the back of my XJ, when I noticed another line rusted and broken. It is one of three lines coming out of a box underneath by the rear driver's side wheel. Can someone let me know what this is, and what line I am going to have to replace? Hopefully, these photos will help identify the troubled part.

Those lines are for your evap control system. It uses the engines vacuum to pull the vapors from the gas tank up to the engine to burn. It is mainly for emissions and it will probably throw a light if not replaced. The small one you broke appears to be the one going to the gas tank, it pulls the vapors from the tank and bring them into the box. The box itself is filled with carbon and acts as a filter. The two other lines go to the front of the vehicle, the medium size one goes to a sensor next to the AC lines on the firewall and then to the intake and the large one goes to the firewall right to the back left of the engine when facing the Jeep, it is just a vent to atmosphere. I would replace the line but it is not absolutely necessary to operate although it may operate differently. You could just rejoin the two with some rubber hose.

 

[QUOTE=tedparis;3328379]Thanks for the information...it was a big help.

 

OK, so I'm new to this forum so help me out if I'm in the wrong area/thread ...
I just found out this morning that the reason my remote starter button on my key fob isn't working is due to a "radio frequency" module/problem and is going to cost a whopping $600 to fix at my Jeep dealer. And as you can guess, it's not covered under my extended warranty! To get to my question ... is this a part that is easily fixed by a seasoned mechanic or is it buried and would take an army to get to it under the hood?

 

No oil slinger on pinion in rear diff?? I've been reading rebuild threads and guides for the past couple of days. They all mention and show pictures of an oil slinger or a "baffle" This is my first rear diff rebuild I have ever done and im afraid im going to break something lol. I don't remember seeing any oil slinger. How essential is it? It wasn't leaking as far as I know before I started working. The only reason I decided to tackle it is because it was making a loud whining noise and I was sick of hearing it. I attached a picture of the pinion still securely inside the diff housing. It's a little dark, but you can see there is no oil slinger on it. I already had the new bearing pressed on at a machine shop and nobody there said anything about it..

Jeep is a 97
Dana 35 rear

 

May need to ask this in the section for your model Jeep. Most people frequenting this thread has 2001 and earlier Cherokee XJ.
If KL post here; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f87/
If Grand Cherokee post here; https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/

 

does this bearing need to be pressed on too?

Somebody please

 

Alright, just got done having the Badger towed to the shop, gonna hit it tomorrow. Wanna consult the brain trust. Here's what happened...

Oh, '99 4.0 auto 4X4

Drove across town on the hwy, running perfect. Get off hwy, start slowing down, chugs a second, then dies. No check engine light, nothing. Lights, etc, still on. Coast into gas station and repeatedly attempt to start it. Cranks like a champ, ZERO attempt to actually fire.

Checked the fuel line fitting, got a pretty good spray of fuel, seems to have pressure. It was dark, but terminals, cables, clamps, connectors seem fine.

Cranks but doesn't fire, doesn't even try... EXCEPT every so often when I let go of the key(from 'start' to 'on') it will sputter for maybe a second, then nothing.

Ignition switch perhaps? Kinda random, but I noticed recently sometimes my running lights(daytime, headlights off) are on, sometimes they're not.

 

Without 49 psi +/- 5 you won't be going anywhere fast.

 

"Seems" is a relative and vague term.

Did it spray you in the face and cause you to shout bad words?

 

Lol, golly it's making a "bumpitty" noise, what's wrong with it?

I'm a mechanic brother, trust me I know how vague I sound. This was in the dark with nothing but an adjustable wrench at my disposal, and my cat in the jeep going bonkers, after a 12hr day.

Not exactly ideal diagnostic conditions.

 

Okay, you're off the hook......LOL. Funny story, cat and all.

Test your CPS first chance you get.

 

I have replaced upper and lower control arm bushings as well as the track bar bushings and still have death wobble asst around 70 miles per hour. Any suggestions?

 

could be the ball joint end of track bars, Tierod ends, wheel hubs, ball joints, alignment, tire balance.

 

Replaced my head gasket yesterday. Got it mostly assembled and was about to finish today with the intake and exhaust but noticed my freeze plugs were leaking around the edges! I just replaced the dang things with brass freeze plugs about 2 months ago. What causes this? I did it all by the book, cleaned the inside surface with sand paper, used some gasket shellack and press em in with a large socket and soft taps with the hammer. Why are they all leaking again?