Definitely not necessary, but I made a little extension to the drain line. My stock line would drain right onto the frail rail, run down, and drip straight inside. I figured why not reroute water away from the inside of the frame lol.

 

Need recommendations/thoughts on which nut strips to go with.

JCR Offroad, which I'm a little leery of because the nutserts are round and pressed in as opposed to welded.

http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJ/XJNTSP.html

However, the "torture test" video does make it appear promising:


Or Crown Automotive which uses a hex head nutsert (also appears to be pressed in) and also has the 5th hole to bolt to the rear frame cross panel.

https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automot...+reinforcement

 

I need to buy some also to hang a gas tank skid and am wondering like you. Not only do the Crown ones resemble the factory one more and have the extra mounting point but also have the holes already drilled for the rivets to secure it in the Uni-Body. Not that you can't drill holes in a JCR one but..... I have not torn apart my rear bumper yet but everybody says you already have one on the passenger side, guessing that is what the gas tank heat shield and rear tailpipe hanger bolt into there, and if so you can buy just a single driver's side one in the Crown version. Granted the JCR ones come with hardware but you can buy hardware, guessing should use Grade 8 bolts, anywhere.

 

you guys can check this out too

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f74/je...strips-226463/

 

Well aware of your nutstrips. Was hoping you would go forth and start making the full size ones by the time I was ready to do this job. Said you weren't but then posted you were thinking about getting the press and whatnot. Any progress in that direction? Would so much rather use full size ones that you would manufacture instead of my other options.

 

Ha! I forgot you were doing this, Neal. As Ralph said above though, I really want full-length. Completely understand them not being worth your time. But especially seeing as I'm still stuck using that stupid ZJ hitch, I need the additional length.

Oh, and Ralph.... I don't know who told you there was a nutstrip on the passenger side, but there never was one on mine. There are a couple of small nuts welded on the inside of the rail for that exhaust hanger, but no nutstrip, for sure.

 

Thanks for letting me know. It is something I have read. Will find out soon. About to get started, well at least stare at it, and figure out the best way to remove the rear bumper.

If anybody as any thoughts as the best way to attack this please chime in.

My thinking at the moment is to remove the bumper itself and then from pictures I see on the internet I will have a better access to the brackets.

Goal here is to get everything off, clean up the areas while everything is wide open (some POR 15), get the nut strips in, because I have to hang a gas skid, rear tow hook, and a new exhaust including the rear tailpipe hanger. So thinking it is one of those things you do all at once, button it up, and call it a day.

So if you are right then I am going to have to whack out the tack welded nuts inside the uni-body to install a nutstrip?

 

Yep. I just put in an order from a place who does laser cutting and bending. 5 sets

 

My 98 had nut stips on both sides

 

Both sides without having a gas tank skid and/or hitch at anytime?

 

No, it had a hitch.

 

That most likely explains why. Got all excited would love to find out both nut strips are in there. Just went out to look. No joy.

 

So I'm looking to attack and destroy all the rust I can on my Jeeps. If I understand correctly POR offers a cleaner, metal prep and then the POR -15. I want to get inside the frame rails too. Can the metal prep just be sprayed up in there on it's own?

Anywhere that isn't subject to UV I can leave just POR 15 as the final coat?

What's the best process for the rest? Can I just scrub off any loose rust and use metal ready and then the POR15? When would I need the cleaner? TY!

Edit: Also what's the best way to get good coverage inside the frame? I see they have an aerosol can and kit for ~$30 or something but it sounds like the metal prep is more suited? Can one of those hose things be put on spray bottle or refillable compressed air aerosol cans?

 

Big fan of POR 15. Prep is key. Thinking you should use both the cleaner and the metal prep. But you would be surprised how long it will hold up on certain things without prep. I like the starter kits. Good for the small projects I do. Also it appears that shelf life for unused POR 15 is not so great. So when I have some of that tiny can in the starter kit leftover I just start slapping it places. What is the worst that can happen? Did sections of the uni-body without prep at the back of the Jeep. Just about to pull my bumper so was checking it out and could see it was peeling off. Also did the gas tank heat shield without prep. Again just to get rid of leftover stuff. That still looks like the day I did it. Go figure. My understanding is without proper breathing apparatus you do not want to spray POR 15. I mean like hazmat stuff. You inhale any of that it will coat your lungs. Literally seal them like it does on metal. So what is this $30 aerosol kit? Do not think I have ever seen it. Do you have a link to it? Yes UV light will turn it an ashy gray. Only reason to top coat is if you care. Wire brush, wheel, or sand off the loose rusty metal. Prep with both items, least I think you should, and 2 or 3 top coats of POR 15.

For doing inside the uni-body I used that Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. Comes with that long tube that sprays in a 360 degree pattern. Does it help? Not a clue. Did it anyway.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html

Just be careful when you do the uni-body. Driver's rear is where the rear diff breather goes into the uni-body. Thinking gunking that all up is not good. Was very careful to stay away from that area. I also Fluid Film in Oct for the winter. Also stay away from the breather when I do that. I have since moved my rear diff breather into the engine compartment so am going to reapply the Eastwood stuff and now can go to town in that section when Fluid Filming.

 

Yeah Eastwood is the same company? That's the aerosol kit I meant anyways. I thought the diff breather went inside, good thing to note.

Edit: been thinking of fluid film too. Figured it would be easier to do POR first.. lols