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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 88
Likes: 20
From: Colorado
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 (Renix)
Hi I was curious.
I just installed Bosch iridiums in my 87 4.0 and it is running better then ever but I am a bit worried that they will burn too hot
Is that something i should worry about?
Also I am curious to know how to burp this things cool and system properly I just did thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump, and both upper and lower hoses
And I had to dump coolant down the upper hose to get it to start cycling coolant and I know there is a better way haha
I just installed Bosch iridiums in my 87 4.0 and it is running better then ever but I am a bit worried that they will burn too hot
Is that something i should worry about?
Also I am curious to know how to burp this things cool and system properly I just did thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump, and both upper and lower hoses
And I had to dump coolant down the upper hose to get it to start cycling coolant and I know there is a better way haha
Not familiar with the older XJ's. Isn't there something slightly different about the cooling system? Anyway I just dumped my '00 XJ's coolant. Used this to let it run and burp out all the air. Thing is awesome and works like a charm. Well worth the $25.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
the bolt going through the front leaf spring hanger seems to have shifted up about a quarter inch. i was in a bad situation about a month ago and some guy tried pulling me out with way too much strength. i was surprised that only my drag link broke, i was expecting the frame to crack or something, his buggy was powerful and at one point he was pulling me sideways. long story short i think this is the cause of my issue, not because it's so rusted it's starting to fall apart.
i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.
from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.
thanks!
i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.
from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.
thanks!
Last edited by Cane; Jun 15, 2016 at 05:34 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
the bolt going through the front leaf spring hanger seems to have shifted up about a quarter inch. i was in a bad situation about a month ago and some guy tried pulling me out with way too much strength. i was surprised that only my drag link broke, i was expecting the frame to crack or something, his buggy was powerful and at one point he was pulling me sideways. long story short i think this is the cause of my issue, not because it's so rusted it's starting to fall apart.
i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.
from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.
thanks!
i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.
from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.
thanks!
What did this guy do, exactly, hook straps up to your tires and floor it?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 88
Likes: 20
From: Colorado
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 (Renix)
Not familiar with the older XJ's. Isn't there something slightly different about the cooling system? Anyway I just dumped my '00 XJ's coolant. Used this to let it run and burp out all the air. Thing is awesome and works like a charm. Well worth the $25.
http://http/www.amazon.com/Lisle-246.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
http://http/www.amazon.com/Lisle-246.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
Also I have that kit and also love it but i don't think I can use it on this
Last edited by Nasty4.0; Jun 15, 2016 at 08:04 PM.
So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
yea its a sealed system so there isn't a radiator cap and the bottle just seems to connect to the heater hoses so it does circulate coolant but it's not like any system I've come across before I know it should have some bleeder screws someware but I haven't been able to locate them
Also I have that kit and also love it but i don't think I can use it on this
Also I have that kit and also love it but i don't think I can use it on this
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You can deal with a wallowed-out hole like that by welding a washer on the outside. However the frame rail is probably also bent so that the bolt is pointing up instead of being flat. An air hammer might come in handy to punch it back down again.
What did this guy do, exactly, hook straps up to your tires and floor it?
What did this guy do, exactly, hook straps up to your tires and floor it?
it was a toyota buggy on 38-40s with a diesel in it. no need to explain the torque it had.
and gotcha on the washer. i'll see the damages once I remove the leaf spring. i took a peek through a hole under the frame rail to see the bolt and it indeed looks like it's centered on the inside, probably creating an angle like you said.
i also looked from the inside under the carpet and there is indeed no issue and it didn't come through the bracket/floor. thanks!
Last edited by Cane; Jun 15, 2016 at 10:04 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
long story short we were in the snow, my front diff stuck so all wheels spinning. my buddy was hesitant to come because it was uphill, so we keep shoveling and this other guy comes by in a buggy and I ask him for a pull. he decides to floor it while I carefully asked for a gently pull, so I end up sideways somehow because of the tracks in the snow. he reverses and does it again, but this time obviously at an angle so before i said anything (he wouldn't have stopped, he wanted to get this over with), my front wheel ends up on a rock and my drag link snapped right at the pitman arm. that's when he stopped pulling and left, making sure to put all the blame on me. i asked for his help, so I assume my mistake, live and learn!
it was a toyota buggy on 38-40s with a diesel in it. no need to explain the torque it had.
and gotcha on the washer. i'll see the damages once I remove the leaf spring. i took a peek through a hole under the frame rail to see the bolt and it indeed looks like it's centered on the inside, probably creating an angle like you said.
i also looked from the inside under the carpet and there is indeed no issue and it didn't come through the bracket/floor. thanks!
it was a toyota buggy on 38-40s with a diesel in it. no need to explain the torque it had.
and gotcha on the washer. i'll see the damages once I remove the leaf spring. i took a peek through a hole under the frame rail to see the bolt and it indeed looks like it's centered on the inside, probably creating an angle like you said.
i also looked from the inside under the carpet and there is indeed no issue and it didn't come through the bracket/floor. thanks!
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well considering the condition maybe the PO got them from a junk yard...lol or they've just been on there a loooooong time. New ones: https://amzn.com/B000C57LX2
Mine are all covered in oil from leaking I'd assume. Long arm is in the near future so I'm ignoring them.
Mine are all covered in oil from leaking I'd assume. Long arm is in the near future so I'm ignoring them.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What's the part number to get to properly fix the oil filter adapter leaks? Finally getting around to it, and replacing my starter. Looking to buy the OEM ones online if I can, as the nearest Jeep dealer is across town through tons of traffic.
4720363 looks to be right, right? Some sites say it only fits 00-01, but I have a 99.
4720363 looks to be right, right? Some sites say it only fits 00-01, but I have a 99.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...er+gasket,5432
lol... I was wonderin' man. It's all good.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 291
Likes: 1
From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
Simplest way, and it's removable also ebay has wiring kits cheap
Seasoned Member


Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
I have an 2.5 year old Optima Yellowtop and original battery cables on a '97 with 291,000 miles. Recently it's been having trouble starting (turn key, single click, loses all power -> get out and wiggle the cables, power comes back, repeat several times until it finally starts). I suspected it was the cables but I just took it to OReilly's and they said the battery is bad. I find it hard to believe an Optima would only last 2 years in Alabama/Albuquerque, so I was wondering if bad cables/terminals could cause a bad battery indication.
When somebody has a starting problem, the first thing most mechanics usually do is turn on the lights and try to start the engine.
If you get the click and die and the lights go off, it's a bad connection, and probably between the terminal and clamp.
Before you buy new cables, I would remove the clamps, run a terminal cleaner brush over the terminal and clamp, then reinstall and tighten. Make sure it's tight.
I wouldn't be surprised if that is the problem, not the cable.
I've got Optima's in all of my vehicles, and all of them have 5 years or more.




