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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:43 PM
  #54631  
Mr. Pink's Avatar
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From: Capac, Mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by odgreen
Get some cables from the forums deafwonder err I mean xjwonders
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 02:54 PM
  #54632  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 (Renix)
Default 87 Cherokee Laredo

Hi I was curious.
I just installed Bosch iridiums in my 87 4.0 and it is running better then ever but I am a bit worried that they will burn too hot
Is that something i should worry about?
Also I am curious to know how to burp this things cool and system properly I just did thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump, and both upper and lower hoses
And I had to dump coolant down the upper hose to get it to start cycling coolant and I know there is a better way haha
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 03:25 PM
  #54633  
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Not familiar with the older XJ's. Isn't there something slightly different about the cooling system? Anyway I just dumped my '00 XJ's coolant. Used this to let it run and burp out all the air. Thing is awesome and works like a charm. Well worth the $25.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-S.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #54634  
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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the bolt going through the front leaf spring hanger seems to have shifted up about a quarter inch. i was in a bad situation about a month ago and some guy tried pulling me out with way too much strength. i was surprised that only my drag link broke, i was expecting the frame to crack or something, his buggy was powerful and at one point he was pulling me sideways. long story short i think this is the cause of my issue, not because it's so rusted it's starting to fall apart.

i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.

from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.

thanks!

Last edited by Cane; Jun 15, 2016 at 05:34 PM.
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #54635  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Cane
the bolt going through the front leaf spring hanger seems to have shifted up about a quarter inch. i was in a bad situation about a month ago and some guy tried pulling me out with way too much strength. i was surprised that only my drag link broke, i was expecting the frame to crack or something, his buggy was powerful and at one point he was pulling me sideways. long story short i think this is the cause of my issue, not because it's so rusted it's starting to fall apart.

i had an alignment done after installing a new drag link and everything was fine in the rear, so it did not affect alignement. i'm also at the same height on both the passenger side and the driver.

from what I can see the eye comes in contact with the top of the bracket (but not going through), while the other side has a small gap. i can also clearly see the bolt shifted up leaving a mark under it. I'm supposed to replace my leaf springs soon, what should I do about this? the holes are probably wallowed out, it's hard to see with the spring still on.

thanks!
You can deal with a wallowed-out hole like that by welding a washer on the outside. However the frame rail is probably also bent so that the bolt is pointing up instead of being flat. An air hammer might come in handy to punch it back down again.

What did this guy do, exactly, hook straps up to your tires and floor it?
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 08:01 PM
  #54636  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 (Renix)
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
Not familiar with the older XJ's. Isn't there something slightly different about the cooling system? Anyway I just dumped my '00 XJ's coolant. Used this to let it run and burp out all the air. Thing is awesome and works like a charm. Well worth the $25.

http://http/www.amazon.com/Lisle-246.../dp/B00A6AS6LY
yea its a sealed system so there isn't a radiator cap and the bottle just seems to connect to the heater hoses so it does circulate coolant but it's not like any system I've come across before I know it should have some bleeder screws someware but I haven't been able to locate them
Also I have that kit and also love it but i don't think I can use it on this

Last edited by Nasty4.0; Jun 15, 2016 at 08:04 PM.
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 08:58 PM
  #54637  
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From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
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So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 09:05 PM
  #54638  
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From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by CR-Snow
So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
what are you trying to do? Add lights to come on with brights or something or replace the harness?
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 09:41 PM
  #54639  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Nasty4.0
yea its a sealed system so there isn't a radiator cap and the bottle just seems to connect to the heater hoses so it does circulate coolant but it's not like any system I've come across before I know it should have some bleeder screws someware but I haven't been able to locate them
Also I have that kit and also love it but i don't think I can use it on this
It's a closed cooling system. Very common on older cars. That bottle builds pressure when the system heats up and the coolant expands.
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:01 PM
  #54640  
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by salad
You can deal with a wallowed-out hole like that by welding a washer on the outside. However the frame rail is probably also bent so that the bolt is pointing up instead of being flat. An air hammer might come in handy to punch it back down again.

What did this guy do, exactly, hook straps up to your tires and floor it?
long story short we were in the snow, my front diff stuck so all wheels spinning. my buddy was hesitant to come because it was uphill, so we keep shoveling and this other guy comes by in a buggy and I ask him for a pull. he decides to floor it while I carefully asked for a gently pull, so I end up sideways somehow because of the tracks in the snow. he reverses and does it again, but this time obviously at an angle so before i said anything (he wouldn't have stopped, he wanted to get this over with), my front wheel ends up on a rock and my drag link snapped right at the pitman arm. that's when he stopped pulling and left, making sure to put all the blame on me. i asked for his help, so I assume my mistake, live and learn!

it was a toyota buggy on 38-40s with a diesel in it. no need to explain the torque it had.

and gotcha on the washer. i'll see the damages once I remove the leaf spring. i took a peek through a hole under the frame rail to see the bolt and it indeed looks like it's centered on the inside, probably creating an angle like you said.

i also looked from the inside under the carpet and there is indeed no issue and it didn't come through the bracket/floor. thanks!

Last edited by Cane; Jun 15, 2016 at 10:04 PM.
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:25 PM
  #54641  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
It's a closed cooling system. Very common on older cars. That bottle builds pressure when the system heats up and the coolant expands.
And on newer cars. My XJs are the only vehicles here with open cooling systems.

Originally Posted by Cane
long story short we were in the snow, my front diff stuck so all wheels spinning. my buddy was hesitant to come because it was uphill, so we keep shoveling and this other guy comes by in a buggy and I ask him for a pull. he decides to floor it while I carefully asked for a gently pull, so I end up sideways somehow because of the tracks in the snow. he reverses and does it again, but this time obviously at an angle so before i said anything (he wouldn't have stopped, he wanted to get this over with), my front wheel ends up on a rock and my drag link snapped right at the pitman arm. that's when he stopped pulling and left, making sure to put all the blame on me. i asked for his help, so I assume my mistake, live and learn!

it was a toyota buggy on 38-40s with a diesel in it. no need to explain the torque it had.

and gotcha on the washer. i'll see the damages once I remove the leaf spring. i took a peek through a hole under the frame rail to see the bolt and it indeed looks like it's centered on the inside, probably creating an angle like you said.

i also looked from the inside under the carpet and there is indeed no issue and it didn't come through the bracket/floor. thanks!
Sounds like a dickweed for sure! Good luck with the repair
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:46 PM
  #54642  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Well considering the condition maybe the PO got them from a junk yard...lol or they've just been on there a loooooong time. New ones: https://amzn.com/B000C57LX2

Mine are all covered in oil from leaking I'd assume. Long arm is in the near future so I'm ignoring them.
Ok, so ... how much of a lift you got, or -do these fit- ?
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:51 PM
  #54643  
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by kgm
What's the part number to get to properly fix the oil filter adapter leaks? Finally getting around to it, and replacing my starter. Looking to buy the OEM ones online if I can, as the nearest Jeep dealer is across town through tons of traffic.

4720363 looks to be right, right? Some sites say it only fits 00-01, but I have a 99.
There are several parts for the leak fix... there is a gasket as well as 3 or 4 o-rings (can't remember exactly). Here's the link to Rockauto with the part numbers. They're cheap enough, I personally would just buy all of them and use the ones that fit.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...er+gasket,5432

Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
shoot, not sure how I missed his response, lol, thanks
lol... I was wonderin' man. It's all good.
Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:57 PM
  #54644  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by CR-Snow
So what is the easiest place to tap into the factory headlight wiring? In about to go to a relay set up and I need to tie into the factory wires. Do people just cut the socket off and use the wires all the way up front? Seems like a lot of back tracking. Is there a place somewhere closer to the firewall to access these wires? Or would I be in for a giant mess opening up the harness? Thanks
Most ppl just use a 3-prong (like the headlight) and plug into the right side socket. - At least if you're upgrading the headlight harness for better power to lights.

Simplest way, and it's removable also ebay has wiring kits cheap
Old Jun 16, 2016 | 06:54 AM
  #54645  
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From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
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Originally Posted by volaticus
I have an 2.5 year old Optima Yellowtop and original battery cables on a '97 with 291,000 miles. Recently it's been having trouble starting (turn key, single click, loses all power -> get out and wiggle the cables, power comes back, repeat several times until it finally starts). I suspected it was the cables but I just took it to OReilly's and they said the battery is bad. I find it hard to believe an Optima would only last 2 years in Alabama/Albuquerque, so I was wondering if bad cables/terminals could cause a bad battery indication.
Don't overlook the obvious. It may not be the cables themselves, but the connection between the terminal and the clamp.

When somebody has a starting problem, the first thing most mechanics usually do is turn on the lights and try to start the engine.

If you get the click and die and the lights go off, it's a bad connection, and probably between the terminal and clamp.

Before you buy new cables, I would remove the clamps, run a terminal cleaner brush over the terminal and clamp, then reinstall and tighten. Make sure it's tight.

I wouldn't be surprised if that is the problem, not the cable.

I've got Optima's in all of my vehicles, and all of them have 5 years or more.



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