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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 12:54 PM
  #56281  
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Well, I goofed and didn't get the ZJ drag link for my ZJ steering upgrade, Just the driver TRE, adjuster sleeve and tie rod. I'd like to put these parts on before a little road trip on Monday. Think I'll be ok or do I need that drag link too?
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 12:58 PM
  #56282  
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Well, I goofed and didn't get the ZJ drag link for my ZJ steering upgrade, Just the driver TRE, adjuster sleeve and tie rod. I'd like to put these parts on before a little road trip on Monday. Think I'll be ok or do I need that drag link too?
ZJ drag link isn't any stronger than the XJ drag link
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 12:59 PM
  #56283  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
ZJ drag link isn't any stronger than the XJ drag link
Sweet! Thanks
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 07:32 PM
  #56284  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
ZJ drag link isn't any stronger than the XJ drag link
Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Sweet! Thanks
That being said, if you're steering is worn out, you should replace it regardless.
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 10:33 PM
  #56285  
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Plan on replacing my oil pan gasket since I have some leaking going on down there. Should I replace my rear main seal while im in there? I purchased one anyway since ill have access
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 11:16 PM
  #56286  
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anything special about the oil pump bolts 4.7 stroker build or can I use regular grade 8 bolts ? thanks
Old Sep 22, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #56287  
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Plan on replacing my oil pan gasket since I have some leaking going on down there. Should I replace my rear main seal while im in there? I purchased one anyway since ill have access
Well... I completely understand the thought process of "while I'm down there", but there's also the addage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Replacing the RMS is a bit of a PITA. Plan on an all-day job, for sure. I myself, would say don't mess with it unless you know for sure it's leaking. If you scar up the block while trying to get the old seal out, it will leak no matter how new your seal is in there.

If you're going to do it, make sure you have some dawn dish soap on hand to lube up the new one for easier install and get yourself a large-diameter drinking straw and cut it at an angle to use as a "shoehorn" for the new one.
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 12:51 AM
  #56288  
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If I was overzealous cleaning my IAC could the cleaner have worked it's way in somewhere and be shorting out the 5v supply to my MAP sensor?

Last edited by rcguymike; Sep 23, 2016 at 03:34 AM.
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 09:45 AM
  #56289  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Well... I completely understand the thought process of "while I'm down there", but there's also the addage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Replacing the RMS is a bit of a PITA. Plan on an all-day job, for sure. I myself, would say don't mess with it unless you know for sure it's leaking. If you scar up the block while trying to get the old seal out, it will leak no matter how new your seal is in there.

If you're going to do it, make sure you have some dawn dish soap on hand to lube up the new one for easier install and get yourself a large-diameter drinking straw and cut it at an angle to use as a "shoehorn" for the new one.
Got it. Thanks man
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 09:52 AM
  #56290  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
If I was overzealous cleaning my IAC could the cleaner have worked it's way in somewhere and be shorting out the 5v supply to my MAP sensor?
I screwed up a TPS by soaking it while Seafoaming my jeep using the pressurized can and hose method in the intake duct. The stuff got past the shaft seal. The can said nothing about using a vacuum fitting instead!
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 09:58 AM
  #56291  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
I screwed up a TPS by soaking it while Seafoaming my jeep using the pressurized can and hose method in the intake duct. The stuff got past the shaft seal. The can said nothing about using a vacuum fitting instead!
yeah that happened to me too
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:02 PM
  #56292  
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So my friend has an '88 XJ he wants to convert to an open loop cooling, I have a radiator from my parts jeep which is a '93. We should be able to put that in so he doesn't have to cut and splice a radiator cap in the upper hose right.
I know there is a little more to it then just swapping it out, but it should work.
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:05 PM
  #56293  
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
So my friend has an '88 XJ he wants to convert to an open loop cooling, I have a radiator from my parts jeep which is a '93. We should be able to put that in so he doesn't have to cut and splice a radiator cap in the upper hose right. I know there is a little more to it then just swapping it out, but it should work.
is there a question somewhere? Lol
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #56294  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
The can said nothing about using a vacuum fitting instead!
I don't think the can has anything about killing the cat either.
Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:09 PM
  #56295  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
I screwed up a TPS by soaking it while Seafoaming my jeep using the pressurized can and hose method in the intake duct. The stuff got past the shaft seal. The can said nothing about using a vacuum fitting instead!
Originally Posted by XJwonders
yeah that happened to me too
It was fine for a couple weeks afterwards...I think...Wish I could just unplug it and drive around without it dying while idling. There aren't any OBD2 codes for the IAC are there? I suppose I could unplug it and then try to keep it running by hand...Although I don't always have the stutter/buck/stall problem so with my luck it would run fine, I'd replace the IAC and then it'd start crapping out again on the way home.



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