Hi guys, I've decided I want to "restore" my little unicorn XJ, but my plan is to do it slightly better than stock.

Basically, as I need to fix things, Im hoping to go with parts that are a step up from OEM. IE: rancho shocks, but not Bilstein remote reservoir shocks, and not adding any more lift than factory.

That being said, the suspension is worn out on my quarter million mile truck, and im wanting to do new shocks all around and leaf springs (they arent supposed to be flat...are they?)


Any suggestions on parts? I know that with new suspension it might sit higher than im used to, but I dont want to go with extra lift parts

 

Are you going to upgrade to 29 spline axles during the gear and LSD change, that is an excellent time to do so?


As far as fit I don't think so but ask the mfg. of the unit your installing. It might be better for you to just buy a 97-01 XJ 8.25 as they all came with 29 spline axles, that way you could do that job on the bench then swap it out.

 

i'm not swapping the diff only, i'm swapping the axle as a whole. the LSD 8.25 comes from a 98 so yes it is 29 splines. i'm pretty sure my 96 also has 29 splines though, it was built late-96 and an identical one from the junkyard with the same build month (sept of 96) had the 29 splines shaft. I never counted mine so I'll have to make sure next time I'm in there.

I'm stripping the axle down to repaint and also install disc brakes while I'm at it. the pinion bearing on my current 8.25 is on its way out, so I thought to do everything at once. fix the pinion issue, get an lsd, get disc brakes and have a clean rear end (lol)

now from what I understand of your post, i shouldn't expect gears for the 8.25 to work with the LSD? i can't seem to find info on this. it's the factory LSD mind you, not aftermarket. Since I'm swapping the whole thing, I'll still have my open carrier laying around, so if it indeed doesn't work I'll simply bring the open diff to the shop and ask them to use the open carrier instead of the LSD for the new gears.

 

Cane in a 98 8.25 it will fit fine, but any aftermarket lsd or lockers would be better than a factory one that has to be rebuilt cost wise.


96 was a strange year and most didn't have a 29 spline axle setup in them.

 

Yes, the gears are the same.

 

yeah i agree but at first i wasn't aware there was an LSD in it, i was suprised to say the least when i opened the cover.

my mechanic told me at worst it will act as an open diff if the clutches are toast, so I'm not worried if it doesn't truly lock because it wasn't my plan in the first place. when time will come I'll get a proper locker, but in the time being gearing is what will come first money-wise.

and indeed it was strange, all my sensors are the ones from a 97, so when i go to napa i must remember to say 97 and not 96. as far as splines count go, people agree that "late-96", whatever that means, have 29 splines and I could confirm that at the junkyard with two late-96. so i'm assuming, but still not 100% sure it's my case.

thanks for the info.

 

I just bought my jeep it is an 1989 and I am having issues with the heater/ac coming out of any vents other than the top defroster vents.. what would cause this and how do I fix it? Im new to this thing...

 

so all the speeds work, but it always come out from the defrost?

if that's the case, check your vacuum lines. maybe start by the vacuum canister behind the bumper, see if everything is right, then check the connection behind the battery, sometimes there's issues in that area. if nothing shows up, track all your vacuum lines and maybe try the cigar smoke trick if you have any laying around.

 

Have a 97 xj. My check engine light has been on for about 2 weeks. Everything has been running fine no problem. It has been reading around 165 on the temperature gauge. Today I drove to town and noticed the temp gauge didn't work at all. Went to head home and it wouldn't start. Turned over fine just wouldn't fire. Checked the engine codes and got 12(battery disconnected) 17(engine running cold) 21(02 sensor) and 31(evaporative control circuit). I eventually got it to start by holding the gas to the floor while trying to start it. Drove to advance auto to have them read codes and I somehow cleared the codes and the check engine light was off. On the way home temp read 130ish. My question is, what is the problem? I wouldn't think any of those codes should keep it from firing? Any help would be appreciated, thanks

 

How did you pull those codes? 1997 should give things like P0128 or P1281

It sounds like you've got wiring problems. Have you checked the actual engine temperature with something like an infrared thermometer?

 

he probably did it with the key method before going to advance auto and clear the codes

also 165 sounds weird, should be anywhere between 195 and 210. either your coolant temp sender (back of the block) is reading wrong, or you have an overcooling issue. like salad said you'd have to make sure with an IR gun.

so if it were me i would start with the thermostat. if it's faulty and always opened (which is what could be the case here) the engine never gets to operating temperature because coolant flows freely through the block. the thermostat should stay closed until it temp reaches 190 (the rated t-stat temp)

as far as the no start, i had similar issues with an o2 sensor (and you even have a code for it). if you have never replaced the downstream o2 sensor, i would do that next.

 

Yes I used the key method. I do not have a IR gun but may be able to this weekend. Having the thermostat stuck open does make sense. Why would the O2 sensor keep it from firing?

 

Yep, the engine would then read "lean" condition and dump fuel, thus flooding, which is why he was able to floor the accelerator activating "clear flood" mode and get it started. The same would occur with a faulty temp sensor. I think with an open thermo, the engine would eventually reach correct operating temp and run fine. But I'm always a fan of replacing cheap parts like a thermostat.

 

A severe wiring problem like a short or faulty ground can cause all kinds of crazy things to happen. That's a little more likely than the coincidence of multiple hard parts failing at the same time.

Let's rule some things out first. I think Harbor Freight has IR temp guns for $20 or in there.

 

Agreed. Sorry, meant to come back and say "salad is probably closer since multiple things popped up."