i totally agree, but i've never seen that happen to me while in the span of 2 weeks after I bought the jeep back in 2011, I've had the CPS fail on me (crank no start), the TPS start acting funny (while driving i had the RPMs surge while i was coasting on the highway regularly) and the downstream o2 went bad (again, no start or start and runs very rough). i bought the parts, installed them, and never had an issue since then. so either i was very lucky that it was only parts that had to be replaced, or after 20 years sensors start acting funny and need replacement.

 

Just looked and Harbor Freight does have them on sale for $20 at the moment. I'll run pick one up when I have time. I may just go ahead and replace the thermostat for now, it's only $8. As far as the code 31, could have anything to do with it?

 

maybe, but now it would be helpful to have the actual P code like salad said earlier. the key on- key off method is only good to give you an idea, while the scan tool is a little more precise.

it could be as simple as a bad gas cap, or also the purge solenoid, or something vacuum related. you'd have to look more into it on google with the code it's throwing

 

Ok I can do that too. I'll have to wait for the codes to start showing back up though

 

I would really check the engine coolant temperature sensor as well. Mine went bad about 2 years ago and I had some similar symptoms, though no engine codes.

You can check it with a multimeter: http://www.fixjeeps.com/coolant-temperature-sensor.html

It's a ~$20 part and easy to get to--it's right on the thermostat housing. In 96 and earlier models, the gauge read from a separate sensor on the back of the block but since you have a 97 there's just the one.

 

Wizard, the CTS can be ruled out by unplugging it. If the issues go away, replace it. If no change, plug it back in

 

Hey y'all I'm new to this forum haha so please bear with me. I just bought a 2000 xj it's my first jeep and I really like the idea of monstalining the entire vehicle plus using the chassis saver they offer. Is this a project I could take on myself? Anybody got some tips or info they'd like to share? Anything would be helpful and thanks a lot!
-Will

 

I knew a Will Rankin in college. Does the word farmhouse mean anything to you?

 

Hi, I'm new to this forum but I need some help. I need to know how bad this rust is. I'm from the Midwest and we salt our roads; this jeep is originally from Wisconsin. 1999 jeep Cherokee sport. Also would like a recommendation on how to fix it. Thanks!

 

doesn't look too bad. more pictures of the frame rails and the floor boards (especially in the front where the feet rest, and in the rear where the gas tank is) would help, but from those pictures the floor in that area seems in good condition, same goes for the rails.

if you're concerned, applying a good undercoating will help a lot, but ideally clean the undersinde thoroughly to make sure you don't have to do it soon or ever again.

your rockers are gone, that much rust on the outside means it's rotted out on the inside and it's held on by rust. that is the easiest rust to fix though. as far as the doors and floor pan goes, the key is removing all of the rust and then welding in new sheet metal where needed, and finally coat everything on the underside with a rubberized undercoating and/or a rust encapsulator in the areas you can't remove all the rust.

 

Frowned open?



#1 - not sure what your (or you) means. There are no bearings in the driveshaft. There are bearings in the U-JOINTS on either end of it, but not in the shaft itself. Also what does he mean by "because there isn't and inch of play on either end".

#2 - Assuming you have stock tire size, you just need to replace your bumpstops (aka "axle snubbers"). If you have larger than stock tire size, you're going to need extended bump stops OR bump stop spacers.

#3 - If you truly have bad gas, the best thing to do is to drain the gas from the tank and dispose of it. Easiest way to do this is to disconnect your fuel line just before the fuel filter, remove the fuel pump relay and put a "jumper" (see youtube video) in the correct pin spots and allow the fuel pump to pump out the fuel into a (approved) container. Your local auto parts store and/or your local landfill should have a means of safely and properly disposing of bad gas.


As far as reading the codes, your Jeep is OBD-I. So the code is displayed by counting the number of flashes emitted by your check engine light. Turn your key to "on/run)" (but do not start it - repeat DO NOT ENGAGE THE STARTER) and then back off again in the following sequence:

- key on, key off
- key on, key off
- key on and leave it on.... the check engine light will start to blink and will signal that it is done reading code when it flashes "5,5" or 55.




You can go with the Springs that are sold on Quadratec or the like - or go with new leafs off of Rock Auto for about 50-180 per side depending on your selection.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...af+spring,7544

As far as the shocks go, you can go with the Billstein 3100 series for a higher quality OEM shock... I think that's what you're hunting for based on what you wrote.

Totally viable DIY project. Lots of prep involved, but worth it if you do it right.

Here's a video of a guy that did a Pathfinder inside and out.

 

Hello all,

New to the forum, but not jeeps; however, I have a check engine light on and had it read. They said it is a fuel epavorator code, more than likely a failed line. This is a first for me and I haven't been able to find too much information on it. Haynes manual is of no help. I was hoping that someone would be kind enough to point me to the correct thread to help me trouble shoot this issue, where to look etc. Have read lots of good information so far, looking forward to more.

1999 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 automatic.

Should I try replacing the fuel cap first?

Thanks for the help in advance!

 

P0455/P0456 are usually caused by two things:
1) Bad gas cap
2) Dry rot on the evap hose that runs from the gas tank to the charcoal canister under the hood

It's a common code on late model Cherokees

 

So the only way to be getting trace amounts of coolant in the oil is a bad head gasket isn't it? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/96...8/#post3315103

 

Haha no bub I'm just now a sophomore in college