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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 12:08 PM
  #57946  
Cane's Avatar
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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should i remove the headliner to patch a hole on the roof? the area right above the top right of my windshield, where the gutter starts, has been bubbling for a while with some rust around it. i'm expecting to have a hole there once i start grinding it, but i was wondering if i should remove the headliner before attempting to do this or not?

my main concern is when welding new metal, i won't be able to put some primer on the inside. does it matter much?

removing it looks like a PITA and it's still in great shape so if i can avoid it that'd be nice.
Old Apr 10, 2017 | 02:52 PM
  #57947  
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Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by Cane
should i remove the headliner to patch a hole on the roof? the area right above the top right of my windshield, where the gutter starts, has been bubbling for a while with some rust around it. i'm expecting to have a hole there once i start grinding it, but i was wondering if i should remove the headliner before attempting to do this or not?

my main concern is when welding new metal, i won't be able to put some primer on the inside. does it matter much?

removing it looks like a PITA and it's still in great shape so if i can avoid it that'd be nice.
I would definitely remove it or at least drop the front of it being careful not to bend it. Its really not very difficult to remove, just remove the upper trim, grab handles, lights, etc and it should come right out. Helps if you have a second hand.

Youre going to want to clean up/treat any rust on the inside roof as well.
Old Apr 10, 2017 | 03:55 PM
  #57948  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Ethan94
I had a problem similar mine ended up being the u-bolt on the back of the exhaust. It was a loud clunk that sounded like it came from under the driverseat/hump. The u bolt was turned in a way it was hitting the gas tank and grinding into it. It only happened when the car would move forward from a stop or my shift to second not be so smooth (my first stick). The mounts for the tranny and engine were shot too but once I turned and tightened the u bolt it went away

ps mine is an 87 xj 2.5l 4x4
And also look here:
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 04:27 PM
  #57949  
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
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Ok I'm installing a 3 inch lift with full leaf packs. The bolt for the shackle on the leaf was spinning and not coming out so I decided to Sawzall it... bad idea. Now I have the body of the bolt sitting flush to the frame and I have no ideas how to get it out. Any suggestions?
Old Apr 10, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #57950  
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by LACK
I would definitely remove it or at least drop the front of it being careful not to bend it. Its really not very difficult to remove, just remove the upper trim, grab handles, lights, etc and it should come right out. Helps if you have a second hand.

Youre going to want to clean up/treat any rust on the inside roof as well.
the more i was thinking about it the more i convinced myself that would be the way to go, but now you convinced me haha. thanks for your input
Old Apr 10, 2017 | 06:44 PM
  #57951  
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From: SE Missouri
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Question Fuel pump issue

I replaced the 4.0 engine in a 97 XJ with a manual transmission. The fuel pump was not pumping so I replaced the relay which did not work. I then used a jumper wire and pumped about 1/2 gallon of fuel out. After connecting the fuel line it started for a second, but now no fuel again. The XJ did not have an ECM or instrument cluster so I replaced them with a 99 XJ I have been using for parts. Could this be the reason the fuel pump is not working? Some of the reading I have been doing indicates that only a 97 or 98 instrument cluster will work and the ECM's are very vehicle specific and would require flashing.
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 11:11 AM
  #57952  
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6
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Keyfob issue - 2000 XJ Sport. I have both original keyfobs, both with new CR2016 batteries in them. They have worked, but seem to have stopped. I recently had the XJ's battery out for a while - one fob didn't work, the other did for a few days then stopped, now nothing. I know these need to be programmed by the dealer, but am I missing some way to re-sync? Have been crawling search but coming up empty.
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 11:37 AM
  #57953  
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From: Tampa, FL
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Fix freeze plug without pulling engine?

I have a slow leak from a corroded freeze plug at the back of the engine. (96 4.0, RWD auto) Right now, I add maybe a cup of 50/50 to the reservoir each week and I'm fine, but I know the day will come when the floodgates open. Is there any way to fix that bugger without the huge expense of having the engine pulled? Please don't anybody say Bars Leaks... I've already read all the horror stories here.
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 11:46 AM
  #57954  
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From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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99 xj 4.0
My e fan does not come on when the ac clutch engages. Is this a sure fire hint that something is wrong? I've heard that it does not come on until the ecu reads 217°f.
I think I'd like to put a switch to manually turn it on. Anybody gave exoerience /input on this?
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #57955  
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From: Nolensville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Maximous
Can any one tell me anything from looking at this photo? Wife just bought this for me and I cant get to it for another month. New to XJ's and just trying to research what I have. All I know is: 1995, 4.0L, Auto. The interior apparently has some wood grain pieces and the seats are leather/vinyl sides with cloth inserts. Just wondering what the wizards out there can pick from this photo, ie. trim level, likely axle set-ups, really anything will help. Thanks for the help.


I spy with my little eye an export model. Where are you?
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 01:39 PM
  #57956  
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From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by BrawnyDog
99 xj 4.0
My e fan does not come on when the ac clutch engages. Is this a sure fire hint that something is wrong? I've heard that it does not come on until the ecu reads 217°f.
I think I'd like to put a switch to manually turn it on. Anybody gave exoerience /input on this?
when the AC is on (and working, that means the clutch is engaging) the e-fan should kick on automatically. since it doesn't you can try 2 things.

with the engine running, unplug the temperature coolant sensor that is at the front of the engine, in the thermostat housing. the fan should kick on automatically.

if it doesn't, you either have a bad fan, or a fuse/relay is blown and that is your issue with the A/C. try jumping it directly from the battery, see if it spins. if not that's a bad fan.

if it does kick on that way but not with the A/C, i'd make sure the A/C works properly (clutch engaging).
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 02:47 PM
  #57957  
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From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Cane
when the AC is on (and working, that means the clutch is engaging) the e-fan should kick on automatically. since it doesn't you can try 2 things.

with the engine running, unplug the temperature coolant sensor that is at the front of the engine, in the thermostat housing. the fan should kick on automatically.

if it doesn't, you either have a bad fan, or a fuse/relay is blown and that is your issue with the A/C. try jumping it directly from the battery, see if it spins. if not that's a bad fan.

if it does kick on that way but not with the A/C, i'd make sure the A/C works properly (clutch engaging).
Thanks. The clutch does engage and it cools fine. I'll see if I can get that fan working.
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 02:51 PM
  #57958  
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Originally Posted by BrawnyDog
Thanks. The clutch does engage and it cools fine. I'll see if I can get that fan working.
If it spins when you wire it to the battery, the fan works. The fan relay is a common failure, but it isn't the only thing that could cause the problem
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 06:20 PM
  #57959  
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From: Southern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Cane
should i remove the headliner to patch a hole on the roof? the area right above the top right of my windshield, where the gutter starts, has been bubbling for a while with some rust around it. i'm expecting to have a hole there once i start grinding it, but i was wondering if i should remove the headliner before attempting to do this or not?

my main concern is when welding new metal, i won't be able to put some primer on the inside. does it matter much?

removing it looks like a PITA and it's still in great shape so if i can avoid it that'd be nice.

For our experience with the same issue, I sanded down as best i could, yes had a hole, splatched in (thats a technical term) some short strand fiberglass, sanded, spray can paint. Turned out well. Done in 20 minutes. Still holding. There's my .02
Old Apr 11, 2017 | 10:32 PM
  #57960  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
And also look here:
Beat me to it.



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