1998 GC 4.0 w/auto

At the rear corners are louvered covers over what seem to be anti-pressure vents. For relieving the air pressure from slamming the doors and maybe they actually vent air if the windows or front air vents are open.

The carwash smashed the left rear one off yesterday and I'd like to find how much they are. If cheap enough I won't fix the old one. If they are too costly I'll repair the original with cotton tea shirt material and 5-minute epoxy. It's look like just two screws from the inside hold it on.

I've searched under vent, and rear vent and found mostly engine parts.

Anybody know what this specific thing is called?

 

Hello Everyone,
I'm new to this forum so I hope I'm posting in the right place.
I have a 97 xj that I just took from 3 inch lift to 4.5. I now have a driveline that only fits in the yoke about 1/2 inch. It started a terrible vibration and the dl is now wobbly. I removed the dl and want to replace with a SYE kit but I don't have any time to do the work and not really the money to pay someone else to do it. So is there a way to extend my dl or possibly there are different size drivelines available? Hope this makes sense. And if there is already a thread on this topic, can you post the link for it. Thanks in advance.

 

Try asking in the Grand Cherokee section of the forum, XJs don't have anything like that (just a static vent in the cargo area)

 

I can't see that happening.

 

Thanks!

Actually; I thought I was asking there. <g>

Hey; sometimes it ain't easy being me! <g>

PHM
---------

 

I sometimes have the same problem, there are two threads with the same name in each spot!

 

Yeah, it's really confusing when you are subscribed to both as well.

 

My 95 xj is skipping with new plug wires cap button and coil it has my stumped anyone have any ideas

 

1994 XJ engine.
I need to hook up an oil pressure tester to verify the new oil pump is working. I assume I can just use the factory sending unit's port, but I want to ensure I buy a tester that includes the correct adapter.

Can anyone tell me what that port is? I'm guessing 1/8" NPT

 

'00 Sport I6/AW4.

How much temp. variation is normal? I've been running an OBD/phone app, still getting used to the "normals" for my Jeep. Going into my first Arizona summer with it, I want to make sure I have the cooling system sorted.

During a fully loaded drive through the mountains, I got up to ~248 deg on a long uphill climb, and down to 180 during a long coast. Did my thermostat over the weekend, replaced the (incorrect) 180 deg unit with a 195. During a test run, mild mountains, ~95 degree day, I was varying between 206 and ~222.

The coolant looked pretty clean, heater blows hot, no signs of blockage. I do need to check and see if my lower rad hose is collapsing under pressure - I read about that, and can't seem to find the spring "stent" by feeling around. After that, water pump. Anyway, oh yeah... how much temp variation is actually normal? Ha, thanks guys....

 

That is vaguely normal, it depends on exactly how accurate the engine's coolant temperature sensor is (can verify with IR gun on the thermostat housing, or check it versus the IAT with the engine cold).

For OEM type thermostats, 195°F is the temperature that it starts to open at. As it heats it opens more. Most 4.0L XJs tend to hover in the 210°F range, and the system doesn't consider itself really warm until about 218°F which is when the electric fan turns on.

With the AW4 you've got a heat exchanger with the engine cooling system. So the transmission's heat is discharged via the normal rad, but if it's a LOT (such as low-speed, towing, and mountainous terrain...) heat from the transmission can wind up being ADDED to the engine.

There are a few simple things you can do, first I would verify that the ECT is reporting properly (likely is, or is only off by a couple degrees). Second is make sure the radiator isn't clogged, both by using a pressure washer or garden hose to push bugs and the like back out the front (you'd be amazed at how much crap builds up between the fins) and by doing a full coolant flush, if you haven't already. The old style glycol and anti-corrosion additives these things were shipped with was only good for about 3 years, and a lot of XJs were neglected so quite a few have sludge.

You can also give this a spin: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/ Doesn't cost anything, good maintenance.

The other things include a replacement of the fan clutch, which is a viscous coupling that starts to let go as they age, and adding in an auxiliary transmission cooler. In your climate and terrain this is DEFINITELY a good idea. You can plumb it inline, before the ATF hits the radiator, or set it up so the ATF only goes through the standalone rad. In your area I wouldn't be concerned about the transmission being too cold!

 

It is possible for the anti-freeze to contaminate the O2S'. Generally, if the probes on the O2S' have a white looking deposit on them that's anti-freeze. The O2S' cannot be cleaned and must be replaced.


use NTK O2S'.

 

Ok so I'm driving myself crazy cuz I can't figure this out. I have a 96 jeep grand cherokee with 160k miles it's a 4.0l straight 6. I bought this jeep it ran great until i left the dome lights on and the battery went completely dead a new battery was put in it before I bought it so I jumped it and then it would not idle at all. The vehicle sat for 6 months before I bought it so I figured maybe the gas was bad. I was a 1 owner and the lady is 80 years old so I figured she didn't drive it much. I put 93 octane in it along with a fuel injection cleaner in it and it started to stay running but the idle was very low. I cleaned the throttle body with a cleaner and eventually replaced the IAC (idle air control) valve cuz the original one was pretty gummed up and while I had the part out I used a spray gun cleaning brush with a foaming upper engine and fuel injector cleaner to manually scrub all parts I could. I followed the instructions on the upper engine cleaner I bought from the GM dealership I work at. Condensed version is spray into throttle body while running until can is empty then let sit with vehicle off for a half hour then start and run at 2500 rpms until all the blue and black smoke billowing out of the tailpipe is gone. After replacing the part, cleaning and disconnecting the battery terminals for a minute or so I started it up again. It ran perfect. idle was perfect, throttle response was perfect. After about 100 miles or so I'm right back to it stalling and not idling. During that 100 miles it very slowly got worse and worse every time I started it. Any suggestions on what is goin on or what I'm failing to see?

 

Ok so I'm driving myself crazy cuz I can't figure this out. I have a 96 jeep grand cherokee with 160k miles it's a 4.0l straight 6. I bought this jeep it ran great until i left the dome lights on and the battery went completely dead a new battery was put in it before I bought it so I jumped it and then it would not idle at all. The vehicle sat for 6 months before I bought it so I figured maybe the gas was bad. I was a 1 owner and the lady is 80 years old so I figured she didn't drive it much. I put 93 octane in it along with a fuel injection cleaner in it and it started to stay running but the idle was very low. I cleaned the throttle body with a cleaner and eventually replaced the IAC (idle air control) valve cuz the original one was pretty gummed up and while I had the part out I used a spray gun cleaning brush with a foaming upper engine and fuel injector cleaner to manually scrub all parts I could. I followed the instructions on the upper engine cleaner I bought from the GM dealership I work at. Condensed version is spray into throttle body while running until can is empty then let sit with vehicle off for a half hour then start and run at 2500 rpms until all the blue and black smoke billowing out of the tailpipe is gone. After replacing the part, cleaning and disconnecting the battery terminals for a minute or so I started it up again. It ran perfect. idle was perfect, throttle response was perfect. After about 100 miles or so I'm right back to it stalling and not idling. During that 100 miles it very slowly got worse and worse every time I started it. Any suggestions on what is goin on or what I'm failing to see?

 

Jut because you have a XJ engine in your YJ doesn't mean you are welcome here, you freak