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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
My right turn signal blinks really fast front and back. Left turn is normal, brake lights normal, and if I turn the hazards on all 4 blink at normal speed.
I'm guessing turn signal switch, this sound about right?
Can any one tell me anything from looking at this photo? Wife just bought this for me and I cant get to it for another month. New to XJ's and just trying to research what I have. All I know is: 1995, 4.0L, Auto. The interior apparently has some wood grain pieces and the seats are leather/vinyl sides with cloth inserts. Just wondering what the wizards out there can pick from this photo, ie. trim level, likely axle set-ups, really anything will help. Thanks for the help.
I have a 44 under mine after blowing 3 axles..works good!!. All though now I'm lunching ft.ends as fast as I change them, so I really haven't pulled it to the max yet. So far no issues..there is a good disc conversion thread on this forum, that should help you work all the brakes out...Please remember the Jeep XJs you see on utube climbing ridiculous rocks are mostly running 1 ton Dana's at least..and as someone will likely answer to this..building an XJ to these specs makes the driveability quite harsh..but it sure is.fun!!
He wanted $300 for that D44. I was thinking stock brakes because I wanted to keep it as cheap as possible but buying stock parts to replace what's missing doesn't seem much cheaper than a disc conversion.
I wasn't looking at a D44 because I'm a hard core off roader. My 8.25 has been acting up. With the help of a friend we noticed the pinion is moving in and out and up and down a little as we rocked the Jeep back and forward in park. Also when the outside temp is above 65 ish it make a hard clunk that you can hear and feel as I accelerate from a dead stop.
I don't know anything about gears so not much I can do to fix it. I was honestly hoping I could just switch the brakes from the 8.25 over lol.
He wanted $300 for that D44. I was thinking stock brakes because I wanted to keep it as cheap as possible but buying stock parts to replace what's missing doesn't seem much cheaper than a disc conversion.
I wasn't looking at a D44 because I'm a hard core off roader. My 8.25 has been acting up. With the help of a friend we noticed the pinion is moving in and out and up and down a little as we rocked the Jeep back and forward in park. Also when the outside temp is above 65 ish it make a hard clunk that you can hear and feel as I accelerate from a dead stop.
I don't know anything about gears so not much I can do to fix it. I was honestly hoping I could just switch the brakes from the 8.25 over lol.
There is a thread on this forum about all the pieces needed to convert to disc from junkyard parts...(sorry I can't remember what type he uses..Ford I think) and as I recall it runs around $300.00 to do it..maybe less...as far as the diff....yours is "lunched" and there won't be any usable parts left in the pumpkin...all though it's not that hard to rebuild...there is lots of info on the net a out doing it..one thing though..I have never seen any info in all the online and TV instructions that informs you about " crush sleeve" torque..You may have to put 300 -500 lbs torque on the pinion nut to squash the "sleeve" (pull bar with 4 foot pipe extension) all the hairy set up info boils down to 20 - 23 ft. lbs of torque to rotate pinion nut ..that and some gear lash paste to adj. the side play and your gold (Yukon gears has a great "lash chart" that takes all the guess work out of the setup..used diffs are getting pretty hard to find cheap so rebuilding them is getting cost effective..
There is a thread on this forum about all the pieces needed to convert to disc from junkyard parts...(sorry I can't remember what type he uses..Ford I think) and as I recall it runs around $300.00 to do it..maybe less...as far as the diff....yours is "lunched" and there won't be any usable parts left in the pumpkin...all though it's not that hard to rebuild...there is lots of info on the net a out doing it..one thing though..I have never seen any info in all the online and TV instructions that informs you about " crush sleeve" torque..You may have to put 300 -500 lbs torque on the pinion nut to squash the "sleeve" (pull bar with 4 foot pipe extension) all the hairy set up info boils down to 20 - 23 ft. lbs of torque to rotate pinion nut ..that and some gear lash paste to adj. the side play and your gold (Yukon gears has a great "lash chart" that takes all the guess work out of the setup..used diffs are getting pretty hard to find cheap so rebuilding them is getting cost effective..
He wanted $300 for that D44. I was thinking stock brakes because I wanted to keep it as cheap as possible but buying stock parts to replace what's missing doesn't seem much cheaper than a disc conversion.
I wasn't looking at a D44 because I'm a hard core off roader. My 8.25 has been acting up. With the help of a friend we noticed the pinion is moving in and out and up and down a little as we rocked the Jeep back and forward in park. Also when the outside temp is above 65 ish it make a hard clunk that you can hear and feel as I accelerate from a dead stop.
I don't know anything about gears so not much I can do to fix it. I was honestly hoping I could just switch the brakes from the 8.25 over lol.
Personally I'd go pull another 8.25 from the junkyard then you'd have spare axle shafts if ever needed and spare brake parts and such. There's not much strength difference in a 44 vs a 8.25, but 8.25 are a whole lot cheaper to buy.
IMO if you're going to spend $300 swapping on used brake parts you might as well get the Black Magic brake kit for $400 all new parts. That's what I did for my 8.25 and everything was bolt on. Still need to figure out the parking brake. Planning on wrapping the cable and using a couple ubolt clamps but it's a pain removing the metal spiral cable protector...lol
Thanks for the input guys. I probably will scrap the D44 idea. To much work or money involved in getting brakes for it. I'll see if I can find another 8.25 locally. The extra parts is a good point SatiricalHen. Rebuilding the one I have myself isn't really an option as my XJ is my one and only DD and walking 50 miles to work doesn't sound fun.
It is weird to me that it seems fine when the temp is cold but acts like it's falling apart when it warms up. Like on my way to work I could floor it and no clunk but on my way home from work after it warms up outside a gentle acceleration is all it takes to cause it to clunk???
"IMO if you're going to spend $300 swapping on used brake parts you might as well get the Black Magic brake kit for $400 all new parts. That's what I did for my 8.25 and everything was bolt on. Still need to figure out the parking brake. Planning on wrapping the cable and using a couple ubolt clamps but it's a pain removing the metal spiral cable protector...lol"
The head issue is specific to the 0331 casting used in '00/01 XJs and certain later model 4.0s. It has nothing to do with mileage or maintenance; it's a casting problem due to the nickel content of the head. You don't even have to overheat it to crack an 0331 head.
A good late model 4.0 with a warranty will be between $2-3k for most people.
Most people who try to Cummins swap give up and sell their Jeep when they realize how hard it is. Of the people who finish the conversion, I'd estimate about half of them either sell the Jeep or just stop driving it because it's so uncomfortable.
What is it about the Cummins swap that makes it uncomfortable?
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
