Welcome to The Internet. Home of petty squabbles and taking everything personally.

For reference my 1999's manifold bolts have a 14mm head.

 

i just wanted to give him wrong size so he ll waste his time

 

Hahaha

 

9/16.

 

My buddy is building up his stock motor. He wants to stay as stock as possible but is gunna clean up and refreshen the head by rebuilding it and milling it a hair. My question is this: should he rebuild the head with all brand new stock parts or are there a set of replacement springs he can use that is better? He's looking for a little added hp.

 

Stock is fine.....

I'll bet all his valves etc are fine also.

 

That was my thought as well but I told him I'd ask the almighty forum! Lol. He races his also so the springs are wore out. I'm thinking that if he would just rebuild with all brand new stock stuff and mill the deck a hair to clean it up it will give him what he's looking for.

 

Roller rockers

 

I bi-passed my heater core due to a defective heater valve recently. I hate using plastic on cooling systems. I don't like the idea of coolant constantly flowing through my heater core either. On the school buses I worked on we used manual heater valves like this.




Would it be okay for a 4.0 to have this heater flow completely blocked to/from the heater core?


I thought about going this route as well, to keep the factory style heater control working like oem with the upgrade of metal.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/371055387982...84.m1423.l2649

 

[QUOTE=Comanche1987;2863296]I bi-passed my heater core due to a defective heater valve recently. I hate using plastic on cooling systems. I don't like the idea of coolant constantly flowing through my heater core either. On the school buses I worked on we used manual heater valves like this.




Would it be okay for a 4.0 to have this heater flow completely blocked to/from the heater core?


I thought about going this route as well, to keep the factory style heater control working like oem with the upgrade of metal.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/371055387982...84.m1423.l2649

HCV is absolutely unnecessary. The heat is controlled by doors, not valves. I live in Arizona and eliminate HCVs all the time. If it didn't work, would I still be doing it?

Whaddya think?

 

I'm not concerned about the heat in the cabin, I am worried more about extra wear to the heater core. I might just go ahead and connect them straight and hope my original 1991 core doesn't bite the dust.

 

"Wear" to the heater core?

How so?

Ever look at it this way?

Since there is continuous circulation through the core, there is less likelihood that deposits are gonna build up in it?

 

You must be new here - go look at new threads with a post date between November and January

It's not ideal as the heater core is the bypass circuit for the water pump. It helps bleed the system as well as preventing too much strain on the pump when the thermostat is closed.

As for the metal HCV. School bus systems are a tad different from a regular automobile (no blend door sealing the heater core off) - normally just a heater core without any doors, or stuffed under a seat or something.

Really valving is not necessary in this system at all. Factory killed it in late '96, and desert people like cruiser54 here demonstrate that the theoretical gains really don't pan out in practice.

 

So I'm puting a g2 4.88 ring and pinion on my 8.8. I'm doing this by myself and I've never done it before. I have extensive mechanical skills just this is one thats scaring me.
So I also got a g2 master install kit.
I'm watching videos of Ford 8.8 gear installs and that's what I'm going off.
There's a good Ford racing video about gears and I'v been using that.
When it got to them putting the pinion on they just used the old pinion shim with the new pinion and put the new bearings, seals, races, oil slinger,and crush sleeve on. I did that and pressed on my new bearing and slid the pinion into the housing and tourqued it down. Ensuring my resistance was within spec of course.
So, my question is do y'all think I'm okay with the one stock pinion shim on these gears? I don't want to have to keep pulling and pressing my new timken bearing on the pinion if I have the wrong depth.

 

Keep checking your backlash as you tighten the pinion nut until its within spec