Hang on - what mods are you doing to the engine that you want more than 50 PSI? The '97+ system runs at 49 PSI on the nose, and plenty of engine mods are supported with the use of higher-volume injectors at the factory pressure.

You should be starting a new thread in Modified Tech for this sort of stuff.

 

That what I was thinking. Aren't all the 8.25 c-clip? And wouldn't that be better than a non c-clip d35?

 

Yes and any other axles are better than the 35 lol

 

Sounds like a plan. I think I'm going to have to drop the turdy5 out of there to put in shims anyways.

 

You may run into a driveshaft length problem though if you don't have an sye and double cardan shaft. I believe the 8.25 pinion is longer than the 35

 

Its got a sye so it might actually help me. I don't know if any of the front shafts I have will be long enough yet.

 

I have an '01 XJ that did not come with a tow hitch. Yesterday I bought a Reese Hitch on CL. It came with the mounting brackets but not the bolts or nuts.
I have 3 questions: Even thought my Jeep did not come with the stock tow package, does it still have holes drilled for the hitch to attach to? Is there anything else I need to pick up, other than the hardware, to assemble it? Does anyone know the bolt and nut size?

Thanks!

 

My apologies. I thought it may be a yes u can use the 99 fuel rail or no I can't. Wasn't planning in going into all this. Mods have been done to the engine. Head job etc. entertaining the idea if an eaton m90 as well. 50 lbs would be good as long as I can hold a constant 50 at wot.

 

yes. There's holes already on the uniframe. 1/2 bolts and nuts. The length is 1-3/4 but u can easily use 2 inch bolts

Better off buying jcr offroad's nutstrips. It's stronger that way

 

Sorry, I should have maybe posted this in the Modified thread, but the hitch is not OEM. I believe it is Reese. Do I stll need the nutstrips?

Thank you btw.

 

it's a lot stronger than the brackets that come with aftermarket hitches.

 

Excellent. Thank you.

 

Yeah I still don't understand what you're trying to accomplish lol. Definitely start a thread and detail your complete plan... Mods include forced aspiration or a stroker or increased displacement etc... you don't need to run more fuel for a port & polish.

+1 I'm waiting on a set of these. http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/NTSTRP.html

Note the shipping is their minimum charge and pretty cheap. If you add another cheapo item (say, steering box spacer, or other small goodies) it'll still be the min charge for the whole order.

 

The other day I degreased my engine bay in the hopes of cleaning up to a shiny finish.

I used the "Gunk" brand heavy duty gel. I soaked the entire engine bay and let it sit. In the past I have had issues with getting my tps wet and then having running issues afterwards. Well I used a low pressure "Shower" settings on my hose to rinse the engine off, avoiding major electrical and sensors.

I mainly focused washing out the gunk on the side of the valve cover near fuel rail to replace the gasket next week. I soaked the area to wash away the chemicals pretty heavily. After I soaked it I let it air dry for about 15 minutes. I then started it and had a very rough idle like I had poured water in the intake. I had to force the throttle for it to stay running and it was spitting and spuddering.

My question is would that mean my intake mani gasket has a leave and alloys water into the ports when I started it because I didnt get any sensor wet just the arear where the mani's meet the block on driver side.

 

It's possible, but a small amount of water in the intake would clear up quite fast.

You can verify by hitting the area with a small amount of water or brake cleaner while the engine is running. The same process used to check for vacuum leaks.