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Old May 20, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #42856  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Spicer 706944X is the OE stuff. First set lasted this long, you can rest assured the next probably will too.
Old May 20, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #42857  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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What are symptoms of a bad torque converter in a 4.0l AW4 combo.
Old May 20, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #42858  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Don't know. Never seen one go bad.
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:11 PM
  #42859  
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From: Stillwater, OK
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Straight 6 HO
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Electric fan will blow at low temps but then stops at around 180 which is about when it should kick on. Any ideas as to why?
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #42860  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't know. Never seen one go bad.
Reason I'm asking is because I still have the 1-2 second shudder going on. I have checked most my sensors, most are even brand new. I have done ground refresh, connector refresh, oil changes, fuel system cleanings, fuel pressure tests.

I'm stumped to what it could be.
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:22 PM
  #42861  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
What are symptoms of a bad torque converter in a 4.0l AW4 combo.
It'll make a bad grinding sound and you'll probably go no where. But like stated, tough to break
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #42862  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by CherokeePride
Electric fan will blow at low temps but then stops at around 180 which is about when it should kick on. Any ideas as to why?
possibly bad temp sensor
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #42863  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by CherokeePride
Electric fan will blow at low temps but then stops at around 180 which is about when it should kick on. Any ideas as to why?
Like Wonderboy said it sounds like your temp sensor is wacky. The electric fan shouldn't come on until 218-ish and should shut off around 213-ish...

Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

Reason I'm asking is because I still have the 1-2 second shudder going on. I have checked most my sensors, most are even brand new. I have done ground refresh, connector refresh, oil changes, fuel system cleanings, fuel pressure tests.

I'm stumped to what it could be.
Have you changed transmission fluid and adjusted the throttle valve cable? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
Old May 20, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #42864  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by salad
Like Wonderboy said it sounds like your temp sensor is wacky. The electric fan shouldn't come on until 218-ish and should shut off around 213-ish... Have you changed transmission fluid and adjusted the throttle valve cable? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=41821
dexron mercon III fluid, not ATF 4
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #42865  
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From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
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Is there a way to get better electric current to my jeep? The windows roll up and down slow, the wipers are slow as hell, if i turn the jeep off and leave the radio and headlights on, they'll dim to the beat, almost turning off completely on stock speakers.

This is electrical connection
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I Know my battery is an awful piece of but it should have enough to power the basics right?

Also, do they make bulbs that have that blue color for aux. lighting? Just the blub itself not the housing.

Lastly, has anyone ever done a mod where they wired a headlight bulb to fit in the reverse light housing?
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #42866  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
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I just replaced my radiator in my 96 xj(had pin hole leak). My xj is now overheating. Popped the cap and there is no fluid. Do I have to prime the system before running it? And if so how would I go about that? pull the top house add fluid and then run? Or is there a different way?
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #42867  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Is there a way to get better electric current to my jeep?
Yes. First start by fixing your grounds. Get this: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
The windows roll up and down slow, the wipers are slow as hell,
Unless you've verified low voltage with a multimeter, these motors and linkages are dirty and should be cleaned. Power windows in particular.

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
if i turn the jeep off and leave the radio and headlights on, they'll dim to the beat, almost turning off completely on stock speakers.
Stock radio? Either your battery is toast or your chassis-to-battery ground is toast.

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
This is electrical connection
Good grief... you'll want to look into a power distribution center with some fuses or something.

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
I Know my battery is an awful piece of but it should have enough to power the basics right?
Maybe. 625CCA is larger than OE. Have you ever had your battery tested? What is the voltage of the system when running? Charging system health?

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Also, do they make bulbs that have that blue color for aux. lighting? Just the blub itself not the housing.
Define "aux lighting". Some fixtures take H1 bulbs that come in the blue flavour all the kids like.

Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Lastly, has anyone ever done a mod where they wired a headlight bulb to fit in the reverse light housing?
No. Headlight bulbs are 55W halogens. The 3157 reverse lamp is about 7W. An H4 - even if it fit - will melt the tail lamp housing, the wiring harness, and set your Jeep on fire.


Some general advice - please look into how electrical systems work in vehicles. Electrical fires are not funny.
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:20 PM
  #42868  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by xj guy
I just replaced my radiator in my 96 xj(had pin hole leak). My xj is now overheating. Popped the cap and there is no fluid. Do I have to prime the system before running it? And if so how would I go about that? pull the top house add fluid and then run? Or is there a different way?
I don't follow - you replaced the radiator and didn't put any coolant back in?
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:24 PM
  #42869  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by salad
I don't follow - you replaced the radiator and didn't put any coolant back in?
.

After replacing I had added more coolant into the rest joe to the full line. Ran jeep and overheated. After turning it off I took a look at the reservoir and it is still full. Pulled cap and there is no coolant at that point. Is there something I may have missed?


I asked about priming it because on my 89 I had a similar issue where I had to continuously fill water/coolant into the top hose and run it until I got an air bottle out. I thought that was a different system.

Hopefully I'm not being too confusing...
Old May 20, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #42870  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Yes still confusing. What is a "rest joe"? It sounds like a euphemism for a coffee you get when you've been driving all night. Or maybe something you do with an empty coffee cup?

Did you fill the radiator when you replaced it?



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