mines like that but I left it so I could use it to get rid of people riding on my ***** .

 

just so I can see the steering and such.

 

That's what I planned on doing but its starting to bother me because I live on a mile and a half long gravel road and driving down it once covers the back of my jeep in enough dust that i cant see!

 

Possible "locked spyder gears??"

 

So it's not supposed to feel like 2wd when in 4wd depending on what TC you have, either a 231 or 242. The 231 only has one 4hi option: part time. This means it will cause binding and wheel hop when on paved/hard ground and is intended for slippery surfaces only. The 242 has two options: full time and part time. The 242 had a viscous coupler (some say making it weaker than a 231) that allows slippage and reduced/eliminates binding when in full time 4wd on hard surfaces.

Binding/wheel hop feels like someone is grabbing the wheel when your turning (generally low speed/tight turn) and pulling the steering wheel back and forth a bit.

 

Read the owner's manual. Part-Time 4WD is only supposed to be used on loose surfaces like dirt and gravel or loose snow. The transfer case locks the front and rear driveshafts together, which forces the axles to turn at the same speed. When you go around a corner, the outside front wheel wants to spin significantly faster than the inside rear wheel, but if the driveshafts are locked together they can't. Something has to give, a tire has to skip / hop, a u-joint has to break, the chain has to stretch, or something. On loose surfaces, the tire will break traction when needed, which is the best outcome, and that's where you are supposed to it.

 

I just wanna get rid of lines/canisters. Already have a free spinning pulley, so no OBA option. Just can't find a good write up on how to remove as much as possible.

 

Need an opinion. I got my trans cooler mounted and lines ran. I've yet to tap into the line. I know which line to tap into. However, I want this to be the least messy and not lose much ATF. What do you think the best way to cut into the line? I was thinking about buying some tin snips.

Edit: I am not tapping into a hard line.

 

You shouldn't be cutting any lines.

Plumbing:
Trans outlet > Radiator inlet
Radiator outlet > Aux cooler inlet
Aux cooler outlet > Trans inlet

You should be adding two lines.

But to answer your question directly, they sell rubber hose cutters. I usually just use a serrated knife.

 

I'm planning on tapping in through the (return) soft line under the oil pan. Using some 3/8" barbed fittings.

 

Wanted to put some lights on my XJ and was thinking about picking up 4 6" KC Apollo's and was wondering if $357.97 sounds about right for 4 and a light bar. Two sets of these http://www.quadratec.com/products/97048_3510.htm and this light bar http://www.quadratec.com/products/72112_10X_PG.htm

 

I had similar issues with my 88 where the control arms looked OK but I changed them anyway as last resort and it solved the problem. I had death wobble at first over 40 mph, then started to happen at 25 mph. Hasn't happened since new control arms were installed. The stock arms were very difficult to remove but replacement arms went in smooth. Hope this helps.

 

noobie question here. my steering wheel has alot of play in it and its coming from the pitman arm to drag link(?) i have a picture of where all the play is. any pointers on what to replace or do are much appreciated. always open for an upgrade suggestion

 

That should be a very solid connection there, and it would click/pop If it were loose. It's usually from a worn out steering box, due to the age of our vehicles.

 

how do i tell the difference? i can see the pitman arm moving almost seperate front the drag link end?