I'm getting ready to replace all my B+ leads and B- leads on my 1996 XJ Sport, 4.0 and was wondering
does it matter whcih studs the green wire and red wire that go to the starter get attached back too?(eliminating the rubber 'block' and running a new main back to the battery) If so how do you know what stud to reattach the red main lead too and the green wire too?

 

Red is large stud, green is small stud. No way to mix them up.

 

Ah ok that's good to know as knowing how my luck is that once I get them off the studs would be both the same size. thanks a lot for the quick reply.
What size ring connector should I use for the green wire?

 

This is a shot in the dark but it sounds like what mine is doing. Try playing around with your positive battery clamp to see if you can get a better connection. Take a piece of fine sand paper and clean up the battery post and connector. That worked for a while on mine but I noticed the red leads that are connected to the battery post clamp are stretched tight so I am assuming that I am getting a bad connection internally on my positive battery clamp. A lot of times I would have all my accesories working on the XJ but it wouldn't start or click till I screwed around with the clamp.

One other thing to check is your clutch interlock switch.


Just my two cents.

 

Jumping it where? Direct clamp onto the battery posts? What happens when it doesn't start? Has the battery been tested (could be a DOA)?

By the way there's no NSS in a manual. Clutch interlock can occasionally get a floor mat jammed in it though...

 

Oops I meant clutch interlock, my bad. You can disable the clutch interlock switch by using a paper click to bond(jumping) the two terminals together, that is if I remember correctly.

Wish I could help more if it was me I would study a wiring diagram for it and start testing components for continuity.

 

Don't do that. You shouldn't even suggest that.

If it needs to be bypassed, use insulated wire.

 

I think he suggested it as a troubleshooting step lol.

It is important to be clear, though.

 

I see your point, it is a big deal with safety so yea, only do that as a trouble shooting step. Never ever bypass any safety devices on your vehicle.

Sorry I Keep forgetting common sense these days is completely lacking in most people. I have used a paper clip in my previous vehicles in the past for years with no problems(for testing purposes only of course) but as Mike Rowe says "safety last"

 

So... I dunno if anyone remembers but I'm getting a huge knock when I shift from drive to reverse and vice versa. Jacked it off the ground this afternoon and looked for any play in the u-joints. They seemed fine to me, and most of the play seemed to be coming from the transmission itself.

Between that and the kind of jerky/slow shifts, I'm starting to worry that my transmission is going bad.

I took a video of myself messing with the DS trying to find any play as well as someone sitting in the Jeep and shifting between Drive/Reverse.

Any suggestions for diagnosing further?

 

I am looking into replacing my clutch and I'm wondering if there is a preferred brand. In researching this I see so many brands and price variations that its kind of confusing as to which brand to chose, any help would be appreciated.

 

No idea.... how do I find out and where is that at?

 

I jumped on you cause I've seen people use a paperclip as a permanent fix there and for a bad power window switch.

 

How does the transmission mount look? Can you move the transmission itself really easy?

 

Can someone tell me why the engine idles so high in park but not in drive or reverse? I started it up it idled at 2k, shift to reverse it dropped down to 1500, shift to drive and it goes to 2500 and I'm riding the brakes down the road. I stop and its idling at 3k in park. All this stops once the engine gets up to 210°F