+1

Anyway, the wires run under the plastic moulding under the door.

 

Stupid question, but are you sure the balance is set correctly? If both left speakers are out...

 

I have a slightly stripped wheel stud, is it cheaper to get a new hub or get new wheel studs and lug nuts(they probably all need it)? Sorry lazy post, I'm onsite working and don't really have time to shop and check prices. Also is it just a better idea to get new hubs @160kmiles(no idea if they've been replaced or not. Seemed ok when I did ball joints a couple weeks ago but I didn't really look at those very hard.

 

Definitely cheaper to replace the studs, but it wouldn't hurt to throw new hubs on there with that mileage

 

How time consuming is the process? I should probably just do all of them while I'm there...but I only have a 3 day break before I go back out to site and wifey won't be happy if I spend a day in the garage. If it's only a bit more expensive and quicker I'd might just do the whole hub.

 

The balance was @ 0 and so is the fader on the NEW deck I put in,since you felt the need to ask,I guess you guys have seen some really stupid mistakes....lol
That was the first place I looked.Was good there.
I also noticed a speaker connector under neath the carpet below the drivers side seat next to the tranny tunnel in a picture online today, I'll check it tomorrow.
I've decided today to gut it except for the carpet to get it ready to put in new floor pans all the way back.I would gut the carpet but it'll be a PITA having screwdrivers and wrenches falling through the holes while I'm working on the interrior.

Since the wires get fubar in the door accordions I may as well cut a few small pieces of rubber hose or wire loom to tape over the wires inside the accordions while I'm dicking around with the wiring waiting for the distributor to come in on the 18th, thanks.

 

WAY faster to do the whole hub. The front studs are kind of a pain to do since the funny shape of the bearing itself. But, to do the job properly, is like $140 for Timken units versus $14 for studs. (depending on how many studs you buy of course)

 

(that's Canadian dollars, right?)

 

Lol. When I bought hubs before they were on par. $140 CAD today would probably get me cardboard hubs with peas for bearings.

 

hmmm... I saw that some studs are long enough you have to take the hub off anyways to get them in. Is that true on the Dana30 on the ZJ? The Timpken hubs are ~$74 on Amazon and some others are $42...Pretty much everywhere I could find says just get the Timkens, are there other decent options?(IDK how long I'll stay with the D30)

 

still better than nothing though.

 

Yeah, studs have to be done on the bench. This is why just replacing the hubs is faster.

Timken is the OE, the only other company I'd go with is SKF. I guess you could throw in some cheapies if you don't care about them lasting only a year or two.

 

Nothing wrong with just doing one side?

Thanks for all the info!

 

even though one side is worn out, the other side still have same mileage and went through the same usage as the bad one, I bet it won't be far along before it ll go bad too.

It's highly recommended to replace both at same time, but theoretically u can just do one at a time.

 

I'm really just replacing it for the wheel stud. I believe they are fine. I was planning on doing a bunch of work on it in the spring when I'm planning on doing a long arm lift. I'm short on time until after Christmas and just have to have it up and running as it's my DD.