Can you turn the arm the connects wheel to steering box? Grab with a wrench and it if makes pops or grinds a bit then its bad. But it could be the end link. They are cheap

 

So just try to turn the nut on top of the pitman arm? And will do if its the box I'll do the Durango swap. And if its not the box it will be that end link?

 

No, sorry. I was referring to the arm between the steering wheel and the steering box. It's about a half inch square steel bar. And if the box checks out then maybe the link is bad. With age all steering components are suspect to wear and can be a contributing factor in many issues.

 

Before doing anything, get a helper to turn the steering wheel while you watch and feel around

 

Oh okay and that's what I was thinking is its going to be a combination of everything. Thank you for your answers and any xj tie rod end will do for that drag link end? I just want to ask these questions first you know XD its weird how I can know so much about machinery but be completely clueless when it comes almost anything automotive

 

I think he did, by the sounds of it someone turned wheel while he observed steering linkage. Well, ya know.. There's correlations but its still a different animal. No one got there without learning something first. And yeah, that's the pitman arm end. Here's the rest of the stuff you'll want. Consider upgrades over oem. A HD track bar/drag link might be nice. http://www.quadratec.com/category/Je.../113/index.htm

 

Hey guys I'm back. I replaced my cps and it has stopped shutting off going down the road, but When i shut it off it want crank up unless I wiggle the cps connector. What could be causing this?

 

Sketchy CPS connector for one.

What year?

 

RPM bounces at highway speed (60-70 mph / 100-110 kmh), at around 2k. It will jump anywhere from 1,500 to a little above 2,000. One day it'll do it, the other it won't.

I already replaced the TPS a little over a year ago, but the issue persisted. It was throwing a code and went away after replacing, which makes me believe it's not another faulty TPS.

I have no clue if it can be related, but the TPS I had to get was from a 97, the little plastic thing that receives the throttle pin was angled differently in 96 and 97.

Idle is fine, it starts fine, in the city there's also no issues.

Any ideas

 

Yep. There's a switch activated by the brake pedal which disengages the torque converter. Probably out of adjustment.

 

Interesting, could this be a reason why sometimes I will randomly lose cruise control while driving without touching the break pedal?

And is this located on the pedal itself?

 

Absolutely. Located up near the pivot point of the pedal assembly. Here's a photo of an earlier model for reference:

 

Great, if I can solve two problems at once, I'll be more than happy.

And when you say adjust, is it by tightening it or what? Never been under there except for my headlight switch, so any insight will help

 

Push the pedal down with your hand. Push the switch toward the pedal. Release the pedal. Shizam!! It's adjusted.

 

1995 cherokee