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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 05:02 AM
  #57871  
jdjonesdr's Avatar
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From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
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Originally Posted by Brayden Garrow
Hello everyone, my 1999 jeep Cherokee sport won't start! All it does when I turn the key all the way is make a "click" and then everything shuts off and won't turn back on unless I disconnect the terminals from the battery then reconnect them. I have already tested the battery and it was fine, I have taken the starter off and tested it. It was also fine. I then also checked all the fuses and relays and they are all good! Someone please help. I dont know want else to check.
Clean and tighten your battery terminals first. A dirty connection does that.
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 01:08 PM
  #57872  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Been looking at the AUX fan override methods lately, why couldn't you use a DPDT On-On-On style switch and a dummy load(1kOhm resister) to prevent a CEL in the later year XJs, similar to the AW4 mods? Then you have On, Off and PCM control with one switch and a couple resisters rather than hooking up a relay and associated wiring. What is the PCM checking to determine the CEL?

Pic for reference off NAXJA:
AuxFanWiring3.jpg?t=1266913171
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...an+ride+switch
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 01:29 PM
  #57873  
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From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
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So last night I installed some LED lights on my trunk hatch. I was trying to tie them in with the cargo dome light. There are 3 wires. Pink, purple, and yellow. From what I read, pink is constant hot, purple is constant ground with hatch, and yellow is constant ground with doors. So I spliced into the pink and purple wires. Now when I open the hatch, the led's come on, which is great. They go off when the hatch closes. Great. But when I try to turn them off by pressing the cargo dome light, they just stay on. I was hoping I could use the dome light to turn them off and on. How would I do this? Should I have tapped into the doors open ground?
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 02:15 PM
  #57874  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Been looking at the AUX fan override methods lately, why couldn't you use a DPDT On-On-On style switch and a dummy load(1kOhm resister) to prevent a CEL in the later year XJs, similar to the AW4 mods? Then you have On, Off and PCM control with one switch and a couple resisters rather than hooking up a relay and associated wiring. What is the PCM checking to determine the CEL?

Pic for reference off NAXJA:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...an+ride+switch

Sounds like a good idea. Give it a shot!
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 04:52 PM
  #57875  
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
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i would like to ask what is the best oil weight to use in the summer for a xj 94 with io6 only has 155k on it but oil pressure drops to 10 once warm and just put new 10w-30 in help please
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 05:05 PM
  #57876  
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
Default oil pressure issue

my oil pressure droped to 15 psi so i changed oil with 10w-30 . not sure if correct weight but it runs 40 psi going down road and 15 on idle unless real hot outside live in florida so what is the correct oil weight for 94 xj quad track
Old Apr 3, 2017 | 07:08 PM
  #57877  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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10w30 is fine.

So does your oil pressure drop to 10 or 15??
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #57878  
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From: Nolensville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Brayden Garrow
Hello everyone, my 1999 jeep Cherokee sport won't start! All it does when I turn the key all the way is make a "click" and then everything shuts off and won't turn back on unless I disconnect the terminals from the battery then reconnect them. I have already tested the battery and it was fine, I have taken the starter off and tested it. It was also fine. I then also checked all the fuses and relays and they are all good! Someone please help. I dont know want else to check.
Make sure your terminals aren't ripped on the bottom:



Mine started doing what you're describing and it ended up being that the soft lead just literally tore apart.
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 02:35 PM
  #57879  
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Originally Posted by Scousebil
Hi guys the petrol tank on my 95 4.0 XJ is really badly rusted, as is the lpg tank behind it and the tow bar. So 2 questions really: 1. Do Jeeps tend to rust more underneath at the rear? Bearing in mind I'm in the rainy UK and my jeep was parked up on a rural forecourt for 3 years - might have just been partially under a tree or something ...

And 2: I'm planning on buying a second hand fuel tank, painting it and adding some sort of protective layer. The only ones I see are for 97-01. Is it the same fuel tank? I.e. will a 97-01 fit my 95?

Cheers
It hit me like a tonne of bricks in the shower this morning why the petrol / lpg tanks are so badly rusted along with the rear exhaust section, brakes and rear suspension. The guy I bought this off let it stand for about 4 years after he bought it. However, the guy before him had a small boat he used to trailer around. He must have been backing the trailer in to the water and submerging the rear of the car with it...
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 03:50 PM
  #57880  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Scousebil
It hit me like a tonne of bricks in the shower this morning why the petrol / lpg tanks are so badly rusted along with the rear exhaust section, brakes and rear suspension. The guy I bought this off let it stand for about 4 years after he bought it. However, the guy before him had a small boat he used to trailer around. He must have been backing the trailer in to the water and submerging the rear of the car with it...
That would certainly do it! Here the spray from the road brine is worse around the rear axle.
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 10:07 PM
  #57881  
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Model: Cherokee
Default my son owns a 99 jeep cherokee says 98 on door but 99 on title

we just bought a 93 jeep cherokee my son owns a 98-99 jeep cherokee is there any issues with the distributer to change it only to get the motor to run were putting the motor tranny and transfer case for now in the 93 body wondering if we need to change anything or can we just remove everything from the 99 to the 93 without much difficulties let me know if were going to need to change other stuff we hear we might need a 93 distributer this is for the 99 4.0 drivetrain going into the 93 body please let me know
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 10:31 PM
  #57882  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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You might get some help if you make that post coherent
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 10:49 PM
  #57883  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
You might get some help if you make that post coherent
x2!!

Posts that are hard to read and understand i usually just skip over.
Old Apr 4, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #57884  
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That is one long sentence!
Old Apr 5, 2017 | 12:04 AM
  #57885  
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From: Glen Ellyn, IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Having a little idle issue. When sitting still at temp and idling my RPMs with drop and spike about 250, the jeep will lurch and act like it'll die for a split second when the rpms go down. Cleaned out the throttle body (some carbon build-up), checked the air filter (clean), and sprayed some sensor cleaner into the MAF sensor. Stopped for about a day and had a 30 sec to a minute fit earlier tonight. Could the injectors be causing this? The gas stations just changed out their winter mixture to summer mixture gasoline. I'm not sure what could be causing this.

1997 4.0, completely stock engine, 208,6xx miles, water incident about 4k miles ago and was briefly hydrolocked, new plugs and wires 4k miles ago, AW4.

Edit: new Bosch downstream O2 sensor and cat about 1k miles old.



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