How does it run when it finally starts? Give this TSB a read: http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_1803103.pdf

Pardon?

 

I should probably do a track bar too?

 

Yes to the adjustable DS trac bar. But if you're looking into low cog, there's a thread specific just for that on this forum. I see where you want to go, but to be honest, someone who's done low cog can help you more than me. I dont want to steer you in the wrong direction.

Low Cog Official Thread

 

Really? The AW4 has no vacuum modulator...

And valve SEATS? Nah. Valve SEALS maybe, but not necessarily on start-up.

 

ok kind of urgent..

I noticed my passenger front brake line was rubbing when I take a hard right turn. I made sure the big rubber sleeve was in the spot where it rubs for a temporary fix.

Can I spin the line 180 degrees and reconnect it without there being a problem? It looks like it's reversible but the line will now be pointing down. It puts it into a more proper bend though and should keep it away from the tire.

 

If you're talking on the caliper it only mounts one direction as there's a flat spot to align everything.

Edit: Is the bracket in the fender bent up? pics would help.

 

Alright so I went trail riding through my friends woods yesterday, lots of hills and ditches to crawl through. After about an hour I noticed the jeep started to go up to 4000-5000 rpms till it would move, so I turned off the jeep thinking the trans had overheated, and it did. I could here a sizzling and boiling sound coming from it. Lol. So I waited till the noses stopped and got out of the trails. By that time it was night so I just parked it and let it cool down. I checked the trans fluid and it looks like coffee creamer and comes almost to the top of the dip stick. Next day, I checked the trans fluid and it's at normal levels but is still creamy colored. Took it around the block and it drives/shifts fine, just as good as before. Not sure if I messed anything up or not, am I find with just a full 8qt fluid change or is my trans soon to be toast?

 

Standard practice is to rotate the caliper however you need to in order to accomplish three things:
1) Prevent rubbing
2) Prevent pinching of the line
3) Allow as much travel as possible

Usually, this means the line points up, but the caliper is spun once to put an 'S' curve in the soft line

 

2001 Cherokee Limited stalled while driving and would not start. Code read "1694/crank shaft position sensor". Replaced that sensor with a new one, and the Jeep still won't start. Odometer now reads "no BUS", and the ASD relay continually clicks when key is in on position. Need help finding a fix...Thanks!

 

Recent oil change, put too much oil in?

 

Where did the replacement crank sensor come from? Mopar? What shape is the wiring in?

 

Never got a reply back but I'll try again I installed sylvania 6k led bulbs in the front of my 00jeep xj I already have a led flasher so I don't have the fast blinkers but my problem is that my markers in my cluster are slightly on like if there glowing anybody have a clue on how I can eliminate this problem so they won't be on at all...THANKS

 

Like to make sure these injectors will fit in my 95 Limited Cherokee

Injectors in the sale section

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f72/up...ectors-213783/

My fuel rails

 

Do you have LEDs in the cluster as well? If you do, you could pull the offending ones and reinstall stock bulbs. It wouldn't solve the leak, but you probably wouldn't have glowing indicators. That's my suggestion, anyway.

Otherwise I would check the turn signal wand. Jiggle it and tap it without turning the signals on. If there is a change in the amount of light, it's likely the issue.

Is your flasher module a resistor to make up the missing load from installing LEDs or is it a replacement for the stock relay?

 

anybody?