Should the putco harness have a fuse installed in the power wire?

 

yes that's what I did

 

So 100w on a 12v system requires an 8.333 amp fuse? 10 amp?

 

I have 15 amps on my Putco harness

 

Setting Your 4.0 at #1 TDC


With #1 spark plug removed, turn the engine over clockwise using the 3/4" front crankshaft bolt. You will see the degree marks on your front cover. Mark the 0 with chalk or white-out. You will see the timing mark on the balancer. Mark it with chalk or white-out. While turning the engine over, put your finger/thumb over #1 spark plug hole. As the mark on the balancer approaches the marks on the front cover, if you are coming up on #1 TDC, pressure in the cylinder will push on your finger. If there's no pressure, you're at #6 TDC and need to crank the engine over until you see the marks coming together and you get pressure. Set the mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the front cover.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

 

Anyone know the proper name or have the part number for the fuel line that snaps onto the rail and then at the disconnect under the floor near the firewall? I've been Googling images for diagrams and digging through websites for two days now. I'm only finding older XJ and 4-cylinder stuff. This is for an '01 4.0. The diagrams I did find referred to it as a "fuel bundle".

 

Need to replace the outer pinion bearing and race in high-pinion Dana 30. That exact location heats up quickly to 120F, while the rest of pumpkin remains at 85 F. Also making a groaning noise, sounds like mud tires.

According to the FSM, it can be done without removing the differential cover!
The preload is measured before removal. Then match that measurement when reinstalling.
Has anyone done this? Did you replace the race also? Seems like the race would have to be punched outward from inside the differential, or a special puller tool.

For reference, here are the instructions;
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
REMOVAL W/PINION INSTALLED
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake rotors and calipers. Refer to
Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the pinion
companion flange.
(6) Rotate the pinion gear a minimum of ten times.
Verify that the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs.) dial-type
torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation
reference.
(8) Using a short piece of pipe and Holder 6958 to
hold the pinion companion flange, remove the pinion
nut and washer.
(9) Use Remover C-452 and Wrench C-3281 to
remove the pinion companion flange.
(10) Use Remover 7794-A and slide hammer to
remove the pinion shaft seal (Fig. 14).
(11) Remove the front pinion bearing using a pair
of suitable pick tools to pull the bearing straight off
the pinion gear shaft. It may be necessary to lightly
tap the end of the pinion gear with a rawhide or rubber
mallet if the bearing becomes bound on the pinion
shaft.
(12) Remove the collapsible spacer

 

Are you referring to #1 in this diagram?


http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/s...ssembly=956085

 

It's somewhat like that in it's location and function. But mine is shaped a little differently (the bottom part is angled towards the back), it doesn't have that vapor tube stuck to it (#2 in the pic) and it has just one small clip about halfway on the long horizontal portion that bolts it to the intake manifold and not that big part (#6). I saw that, and similar diagrams and they all looked the same. Maybe that diagram is really just meant to be representative and not a drawing of the actual part?

 

Maybe, but from my experience they're pretty close.

If you have a dealership close by you could ask them if they have one you could look at. If they don't have one, ask them if they'd be willing to order it so you can verify it's correct.

This is the option I would chose, but I have a dealership close by and a good relationship with them, so it helps in cases like this.

Any chance you can post an image of said part on your Jeep? That may help.

 

Ok, s10, I went and looked at my own set-up. Let me ask you this: Do you need to replace that whole line or just the disconnect part or what?

 

? I am not sure what model my XJ is. I have a 94. Automatic 4.0 everything in the cab is manual. No power to the doors at all. Is this a country, sport.

 

probably a SE

 

Thank you. I only been a jeep owner for a year but am increasingly becoming addicted.

 

we are more than glad to help and feed your addiction