That's a very common spot for rust. Try looking into the "rear quarter cut and fold." That whole panel can be trimmed up to the body line to give you more clearance for larger tires

 

I was hoping to avoid the cut-and-fold rear quarter for as long as I could. My cherokee is going to be stock for a VERY long time, and I'm not a big fan of the look of the cut corners with stock tires, mainly because of the "gap" that results because of the missing bumper end caps.

Of course, I suppose I could mod the stock bumper ends with a "plate" of sorts to wrap under where the quarter was removed....that would protect my corners AND fill the gap... (I tried doing a few searches seeing if anyone trying it, but I couldn't find anything)

 

24 gauge probably enough for that. Lowes sells small pieces in the hardware aisle. HVAC places usually have tons of the galvanized stuff laying around

 

1998, passenger front window doesn't work with the switch. Replace the switch, still nothing. Window works when I apply 12v to the plug by the fuse box and at the switch. I have a known good regulator that doesn't work when plugged in either.

It can't be a broken wire because I can get it to work by applying power at the plug at the end of the door. Unless it's a broken wire somewhere inside the jeep. Any other ideas?

 

Yup. Does your driver door have the window safety switch. Chances at its going bad and you can bypass it.

 

My rear windows work from the driver switch and their switch on the back doors though. I tried bypassing for poops and giggles and it didn't fix it

 

To clarify: Driver can still roll down all the windows from his door when that switch fails. The other switches stop working, though

 

Yeah problem with mine is the rear windows still work from their corresponding switch. I have a feeling either a part of the DS switch is bad or some wiring between doors has broken

 

I would suspect door wiring, but it could go either way

 

Looking to replace my gear oils, so i believe its 75-90 gear oil front and rear plus additive for the lsd in the rear.

Is there any reason I couldn't use a 75-140 like this that already contains the additive?

And the transfer case takes ATF III fluid from what I can see.

 

If you offroad or tow often go with 75-140. If it's a DD with normal use 75-90 is fine. LSD additive is only needed if you have a limited slip diff of any sort.

 

The TC takes any automatic transmission fluid. ATF+ or Dex/Merc is fine

 

I didn't even notice that part of the question. Thanks for catching it

 

There is an LSD in the read apparently, haven't had it that long and need to confirm but I'm told from the diff tag its an LSD, plus both wheels break traction evenly

Ok cool.

Thanks drhoward1988 and NewKindOfClown

 

If a head gasket is leaking oil at a drop a month, could re-torqueing the head bolts fix it if it was loose? Just an "in theory" question..