Drew_OH

So, I bought a 99 auto 4.0 in the last week. Has towing package.



99




During the test drive, after about 20 mins driving around in 80 degree heat, I parked it to listen to the exhaust, and I noticed steam from under the hood. Immediately shut it off, but this happened:



Original Radiator Blow-Out

The owner replaced the factory radiator after this happened ($107 from Advanced Auto Parts..), and both hoses. I drove it again, and all seemed fine. I purchased.

I put about 100 miles on it with no issue, but now getting overheating again. Yesterday, after sitting in traffic a bit on a 90 degree day, it overheated. As the overflow bubbled over, I noticed some seepage coming from the crusty tube in the middle of this picture:




Crusty tube

I cant seem to tell what it is exactly. Can someone identify what line this is for me? I have been poking around the net looking at exploded views of the systems, but can't quite figure what I am looking at....

I know I need to run through my cooling system, and check everything (need to find a checklist for this). Am trying to be patient, but was really enjoying my first jeep.

naverillsn001

So I have that notorious cold-start fuel pressure problem that's usually a bad check valve, and I have read ALL the threads about fixes, including the external BMW check valve, and I've read that if you try that solution on the wrong year your engine will blow up, but there's ambiguity on the years.... Some say you can do it on 97 and older, some say 95 and older... anybody know if I can do this safely on my 96 4.0? ALSO... it seems that the BMW check valve has been discontinued. Anybody know of another external option?

CurrySoSpicy

Why not fix the check valve correctly by dropping the fuel tank?

naverillsn001

Possibly beyond my skills. Also, although I've asked around on this forum, I can't get an answer to whether replacing the fuel pump in a 96 also replaces the check valve or if the check valve is a separate part.

4x4jeepmanthing

looking for 99 cab fuse panel Wiring diagram for all the plugs. trying to fix my horn

thank you

jeps

hi i have a 99 jeep cherokee with a straight 6 with automatic transmission with 242 transfer case...i started hearing a slight cluncking noise while coming to a stop,once stopped it goes away and doesnt do it on acceleration or at speeds...but other than the noise the trans worked and shifted fine..while searching for the sound i drained my transmission to check for metal shaveings and i did a trans fluid change with dextron 3 (i was told although sometimes recommended, dont use atf 4)...i let it drain and sit for 30 minutes with the plug open to get it all out and found no signs of metal in the fluid..then i filled the trans to just about a 1/4 inch below the max line..now when i put it in gear it takes off great with tons of power just like befor but about 30 seconds later it completly stops moving as if i was in nuetral..if i turn the jeep off and wait like 20 seconds i get great power again for about 30 seconds..i noticed when i stop hearing the fluid returning to the pan itll move good again .im confused why it worked so good befor the fluid change and had great trans responce but then after the change it goes to nothing at all within seconds...trans is warm and in nuetral at an idle when checking the fluid...at this point i think its the 242 transfer case making the noise cause i can pull the front axle yoke in and out of the housing about 3/8 of an inch....im assuming that shouldnt do that as theres a slipe yoke on the axle end of the drive line...so now befor i address the noise my first concern is the slipping trans cause befor the fluid change while on my hunt for the noise it worked great ...im good with cars and although i dont know it all i work on all of my vehicles and im allways looking to learn more but this has me stumped..it acts like theres to much fluid but i have checked it over and over and it says its in the sweet spot of the dip stick every time. i even drained it to the add line just to see and it still does it..im affraid to run it below the add line to see if it gets better...so i need some help on this one.......but while were on the subject, should the yoke move in and out ?...no upward or side movement just in and out like maybe a retaining ring came off??? ive read a ton on slipping trans threw my searches but i couldnt find a thread matching my problem so any help would be greatly appriciated....

Tbone289

Have you checked the fluid level the proper way yet?

Full operating temperature (at least 10 mi of driving), engine running, transmission in park or neutral. The level should be in the proper range on the dip stick under these conditions.

The best thing to do to get the level correct is to put back the same amount as you took out.

jonnyjets

I got a 1996 cherokee that needs a little work done but runs fine, i have a friend who has a 1990 cherokee that needs a tranny job but the rest of the vehicle is in good condition, he is willing to sale it to me for the parts.. question : are the parts of the jeeps compatible from those years?

Basslicks

Depends on the parts. '96 is a bit of a bastard. It will have parts from 95, 96, and 97 on it.

1990 is a Renix electrical system and the AW4 has a smaller output shaft on the transmission and as a result has a smaller input shaft on the transfer case.

So... what parts are you trying to get off of it?

Drew_OH

Can anyone tell me what the crusty line is?



Crusty tube

SatiricalHen

Coolant line for the heater core. I don't know the specific name of it though, but it connects the thermostat housing to the hose that runs to the heater core.

EZEARL

^^yep. That's the water pump inlet tube. You need to be dealing with that real soon.

cruiser54

And the pump needs to be removed for a replacement to be installed.

Drew_OH

I just bought this jeep and am sorting through things. It's my first jump in, and am learning a lot, but am having overheating issues. This tube has visible seepage.

Also had this happen to the ORIGINAL radiator during the test drive. Previous owner put in a new one before sale (107$ from Advance Auto Parts).




Ok, I need to be searching on what all is involved in replacing that inlet tube. How involved for a newbie?
Best place for parts? Should I replace the water pump while I am at it?

EZEARL

What year XJ?

You can replace everything in the cooling system (not including the heater core) for around $250 give or take a few $$. Here is a good place to buy parts or use as a reference to what you'll need.
http://www.rockauto.com/