Be careful and cautious when messing with that adjuster nut on steering box. It is not intended to remedy a worn steering box. The only way to adjust lash properly is with steering box removed from vehicle and with tools for measuring preload. It is a detailed and specific process. But not a remedy for worn internal parts.


http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/214
"Many people have been mislead into thinking the adjusting nut on top of the steering gear is to remove slack. This adjustment is meant to set the initial lash, between the gears, when the box is built. This adjustment will NOT remove slack. Tightening this adjustment will force the gears together and cause them to bind. Ironically, binding gears make steering far more difficult and actually feel even more loose."

 

Will the check engine light come on if the catalytic convert(s) get clogged? I have a 1997 4.0. And are there two cats or one??

Thanks!

 

97... some of the gaskets are the same, but some are quite different. Buy them for a '97 to be safe.

 

Maybe a bit off topic for this thread but I thought this might be the best spot to post.

Anyone have the link saved for that big long write up on headlights and foglights? The one I'm talking about had a bunch of pictures for reference and talked about beam patterns and color temperature and basically the theory of forward lighting. If anyone hasn't it, I'd very much appreciate it. Thanks

 

This one?
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/headlights-2891137/

 

That's the one. Thanks a bunch.

 

Going through some stuff yesterday I found a new Super Joint Alloy U Joint.
Super Joint is out of business and I believe they were bought by Yukon but the part #'s are different. Internet search was fruitless. It's a heck of a nice joint, really beefy with Zerks. Probably from one of my old TJ's but I have no clue which one. So the question is, can anyone ID this joint by the part# so I don't have to unwrap it and measure?

Super Joint # 41004 under that number is a smaller number # 269. I've had a number of axles over the years but now my Sport has a Chrysler and a 30 and this looks way too big for those.
Just curious if anyone might know.

Thanks

 

Moog 269 is a driveshaft ujoint for XJs, but I don't know if that's a cross-reference number or just a coincidence

 

Thanks, i'll bet it is a cross reference #, I'm not sure why I would have an XJ joint but I'll check with MOOG

 

I'm working on swapping out my head and on trying to release the pressure from the fuel rail, nothing is coming out of my release valve when pushed in. I've already emptied my oil and coolant, so a little hesitant to pull the relay and do it that way. Is it possible to pull the intake with the fuel rail still attached? Or at least get it disconnected from the head?

 

Okay so I’m hoping someone will know how to do this but so I bought a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport as my first car and I am very into music so I bought new speakers but of course I have the commen problem of the driver side door speaker not working so I was wondering if you guys could help. I’ve tried to connect the wires inside the door again and tried to find any other place for breaks but I just can’t do I was wondering if any of you guys know what else I could do or whether I would have to connect new wire altogether and if so how would I go about that?


In the door boot



This is behind the stereo and the previous owner replaced it and I was thinking maybe he did some wiring wrong?

 

Just let the fuel leak out. I've forgotten to bleed the pressure before and pulled the rail off and it wasn't that bad and I wasn't expecting anything. You'll be fine just pulling it off. Maybe the valve in your fuel pump is bad and let's the pressure leak off, I've had quite a few of those go. Long story short, I would just pull the fuel rail off, or if you really don't want gas spilling pull the injectors out of the intake with the rail since they will be closed.

 

OK I'm All ears. How does one reboot the PCM -92 4.0-
Leave the battery disconnected over night?

 

I've always left the fuel rail attached to the intake manifold, no need to remove it to remove manifold. That way there's only one place for dirt to get in (the pipe from pump-in-tank to the rail), instead of lots of places.

 

So I have that notorious cold-start fuel pressure problem that's usually a bad check valve, and I have read ALL the threads about fixes, including the external BMW check valve, and I've read that if you try that solution on the wrong year your engine will blow up, but there's ambiguity on the years.... Some say you can do it on 97 and older, some say 95 and older... anybody know if I can do this safely on my 96 4.0?