I don't have a multimeter so I need to pick one up. I cleaned the grounds last night and it didn't do anything. I need to find the original connector, I can't remember where it is. It is driver side, correct? I saw a burned out relay so I just figured that was it, and then started replacing stuff.

any recs? Napa has a bull**** one for $20 that I have to return now, and they go up to like $150 immediately. I feel like that isn't correct pricing.

 

FYi replaced the switch and it didn't fix it either.

Found a decent multimeter at advance auto for $35.

Now the jeep won't even turn on or get any current at all????? Not sure if I left something unplugged by accident???? LOL

 

Took the heep out for a test drive after getting everything in the rear finished. Got the lokka locker in the 8.25 and i have some heavy clunking going on only while im reversing out of the driveway with the steering wheel turned. How loud are the ratchet lockers supposed to be?

 

Picked up a meter.

Resistence from harness grounds to negative post is nearly zero. Like .02ohms or what have you. I checked both. The blue wire in between each has connectivity as well. Connectivity to all the white wires are good.

12 volts on the original connector is present.

Only thing I noticed was the blue male prong on the new harness that connects to the original connection has seemingly no connectivity to the blue wires in the relay sockets. My white whale?

 

I want to swap out my 1990 XJ front hubs for the hubs from a 1999 or newer grand cherokee in order to change my bolt pattern from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5 to use some newer style jeep rims. Will the swap work? How about changing rear axles for same purpose, 4.5 to 5 on 5 axles? Thanks all!

 

If I remember correctly, the WJ axles are slightly wider, so I don't see you being able to use the axle shafts. As far as the front hubs, you would need to make sure that the spline count and diameter match the WJ unit bearings.

All in all, you'd be better off buying some quality wheel adapters. Spidertrax or Alloy USA are about the best in the business. Don't mess around with ebay or cheapo spacers. I believe you can pick up a set of the spacers mentioned for about 150 bucks.

 

Ok, thanks!

 

I want to upgrade my xj sport suspension to the up country. I tried a search but got mostly grand cherokee stuff. Are the Springs and shocks the same or do I need to get some specific to the xj?

 

We just had some recent discussion here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...6/#post3412142

See the last couple of pages of that thread.

Parts list for 1" "UpCountry" lift:

Moog CC782 coil springs
Stock spring isolator (Moog #K160039) (only if original is worn)
Crown HD leaf springs (#4886186AA) or Dorman (#929-301)

The Dorman springs come with new bushings, the Crowns do not. You will need to press in new bushings on the Crowns or get poly bushings (I prefer rubber). You should also replace the shackle bushing while you're at it. I had to replace the shackles on mine as well because they were rusty and getting weak so I just bought new ones with the bushing already pressed in.

Stock shocks work perfectly fine with this setup, or you can use slightly longer shocks with slightly extended bumpstops. I went another 0.5" higher in the front with a 3/4" spacer (no isolator) and run the Bilstein 5100 shocks designed for 2-3" lift.

If you haven't done a leaf spring swap on your rig yet, you might as well expect to replace all the bolts. Buy Mopar bolts. Also expect a lot of cussing as you grind and cut the old rusty bolts out.

 

Oh man you made things easy on me! One last question: you are saying that any shock will work right? I really don't need platinums so bilstein is out. There are some reasonable HDs at Rockauto. The Gabriel is the cheapest but don't want to go cheapest. The Monroe is interesting with the police package. Will they work fine?
Excuse me I am really ignorant about suspension

 

Any OEM style shock that lists for your XJ will work. Don't know what yr your XJ is or how much you want to pay for shocks but here's some.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=1996

 

Thank you, I think I will opt for the HD Monroe

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1999,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1431776,suspension,shoc k+absorber,7556

I just looked underneath and it looks really clean. no rust, should, I repeat should, be able to remove and replace fairly easily.

 

what brand of aftermarket steering box should i consider and/or stay away from? looking into the s10 box swap, and so far rockauto has the best prices. options are ACDelco, A1 Cardone and BBB, all of the reman boxes. BBB is the one that has a little heart next to it to signify it's their most popular item in that category (also the cheapest though).

so far i'm staying away from a1 cardone as most things i read about them is negative (starts leaking again after a month, stuff like that), but not sure if the others are any better. my local napa wants 450$ for a box, and that's excluding the core of 170. i don't have 600$ for a new steering gearbox

 

I am trying to figure out the same thing. During my search, I stumbled across an article where they rebuilt the box. Did not look too hard and I dont think you needed any fancy tools. Rebuild kits are cheap! That might be the route I go. My box isnt leaking or anything, but the output shaft has some play.

 

Got my original seller to warranty my headlight harness, which is awesome.

Swapped that last night, and my main beams work great now. BUT my high beams don't work? Swapped both bulbs, all new harness / relay / fuses. What would cause that? A loose connection at the second relay that fires for highs? I can hear it firing. Replaced the headlight switch at the dash. Not sure what to check since I can hear the 2nd relay firing.