Checked the speed control switch in the dash-ok

checked the blower relay on the meter and switched it with the ASD for a sec-it's good.

Fuse for blower-good

i guess I'm pulling this motor out on a 98 degree day. Sweet.

 

Update on the blower crap.

After checking the relay, fuse, switch and resistor pack, I pulled all the Evap crap out of the way, twisted the accumulator and pulled the plug out for the motor. I blasted it with contact cleaner and low and behold.... it works again.

Ive got no big trips coming up so I'll save the $100 on the blower and see how it does around town for a while. Thanks for the help.

 

 

That looks like normal play to me. The axleshafts are held in by c-clips and the ends of the axleshafts don't ride right up against the Cross pin in the carrier. So there will be some lateral play. There's not enough there to cause a concern, but if you've never serviced the diff, or if it's been a while, pull the cover off and inspect it and fill with fresh fluids while you're in there.

 

Swapping a new Grant steering wheel in my 91. Got the original wheel off and have the 3196 swap kit. Our horn mechanism is different though from the other GM columns I have seen. We don't have the horn plate with connecting wire and the clip that sits on the spring. Just the spring and a plunger. How does this work? I'm assuming whatever sits down in the hole with the spring is a hot lead, and just needs a connection to ground via the horn button to complete the circuit. Sound right?

 

I don't know, but it should be easy to test with a jumper to ground, right?

 

I have one of those steering wheels sitting around from a 91 I bought. Had a horn button on the dash, but at some point in time the button was rewired to start the jeep because they ignition switch worked intermittently.

 

Next on my list is to install my new Bilsteins. I have upper shock mount bar pin eliminators in the rear, should i cut these bar pins out? They are rectangular and I cant just press them out


Also, one of the rear shocks came with two metal sleeves. I assume these are for the bushings that attach to the rear axle?



thanks guys!

 

Those Barpins are vulcanized to the rubber. If you try to press them out it will pull the bushing too. To run them without barpins you need new bushings I believe. I just threw them in there with barpins even though I had been using eliminators. I don't remember if I used those metal sleeves or not.

 

do i need upper and lower control arms for a 3" lift? Or can i get away with just lowers?

 

You can just do lowers

 

i know someone has probably already asked this, but what are the best control arms? Are there any brands i should stay away from?

 

That's entirely debatable.

Personally, my top recommendation is Metalcloak because of their bushings (and because I'm in love with that company), and IronMan4x4 is my second choice. I've also had good experiences with Iron Rock Offroad.

As always, I will specifically speak out against Rough Country because **** them.

But control arms are pretty basic, and most of the performance difference will be from the bushings

 

thanks for your feedback. I'll go take a look at those companies...

 

headlights burned out. Relays were suspected, found one that looked burned out. Replaced it, no dice. High beams went out. Replaced the other relay. Still nothing. Just replaced the fuses, and bulbs. Still nothing.

Must be that damn switch right? The thing I wanted to avoid fixing by upgrading my harness, ha ha.