"Windchill" temperature more than likely has a graphic something like this
Not unlike "Heat Index" usually accompanied by flames lapping at your heels, pictures of hell, etc...

More nonsense imagined by the liberal media brainwashing campaign designed to make you afraid to go outside. lol.

If you are like me, you just don't pay em any attention and they can't bother you.

 

 

Now the weather man is a liberal conspiracy? LOL

 

I'm almost at a loss over here. My XJ needed a new head gasket. I replaced the gaskets water pump inlet tube hoses, and other small stuff. Went to start her and it flung straight to 2500+ RPM. I quickly shut it off and inspected. I've connected, disconnected the TPS MAPs and IAC. I had codes 505, 123 and 108. I replaced the TPS and MAP. Now I only have 123 which is TPS HIGH VOLTAGE. I can't figure this out. She runs to 2500 and doesn't want to come down. What could I be missing?

 

Intake manifold leak

 

when i take off from a stop, the speedometer will usually stay at 0 until i reach 10-15mph and then jumps to the right number. eletric connection behind the cluster or something else?

everything else works 100%, gauges are all fine, only that small quirk (for now)

 

Ok guys, new here. I really appreciate all of the information I've been able to receive from various posts. You all have helped me successfully take the head off and put back on my XJ with confidence. My stupid question now is, how do I know if I have positive stop rocker arms? (I think that's what a buddy told me I have). Be gentle in your responses..... All help appreciated.

 

Never heard of that. You torque them down.......

 

Ok, do I have to put a gauge on them before I crank it up?

 

You torque the bolts down to a specified torque.

 

Cool. Thanks for the help.

 

Don't forget to secure the bridges so they can't be accidentally twisted while torquing. Not common problem but annoying to take it apart and replace them...

 

I'm new to the forum. I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 297,000 miles. I've recently had to put a good deal of $$$ into it: rebuilt transmission and rear-end. I've been driving it again, post-transmission transplant, for about 5 weeks now, and it's now started making a grinding/crunching sound (it sounds similar to the thumping that a playing card pinned to the spokes of a bicycle wheel makes) when I take off from a stop (usually when it's cold) up to the shift to 2nd gear, and then it backs off until I stop. As soon as I stop it makes a small, almost imperceptible jerk/thump that appears to come from the front. It only does this intermittently and I've been unable to pin down a specific set of circumstances that set this off. I've had my mechanic look at it. He says that he checked out all of the moving parts and couldn't find anything wrong. He's been working on my vehicles for half of my life, so I trust him. Any ideas about what might be going on?

 

This won't be much help, but I have a friend with a Ford Explorer I've worked on and their transmission sounds like you're describing after rebuild.

 

No way! So I'll have to listen to this cacophony indefinitely? How embarrassing!