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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 11:57 AM
  #57301  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Martlor13
Go with clearwater head
Everyone says that, so there really aren't going to be any decent local options? AZ, Oreilly, carquest etc?
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 12:03 PM
  #57302  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Everyone says that, so there really aren't going to be any decent local options? AZ, Oreilly, carquest etc?
Eh when I was doing some research there wasn't much as far as auto parts chains that had one with good reviews like clearwater.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 12:04 PM
  #57303  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by lvcherokee2001
Hello new to this forum, I live in Las Vegas I just purchase a 2001 Cherokee Sport with head problems, I want to know what brand heads the members is using, I am planing to go with J$C new head, is this the best choice.
Thanks you all
If you want to save money. You can source a TUPY 0331 head from the junkyard or one of part-outs.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 12:34 PM
  #57304  
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Hi!
New here and thanks in advance for all the help I will be getting in the future!! ;-)

I installed a pushbutton start on my 1991 Cherokee and it works great. Now I want to install a remote start which will also be simple to do but my question is this.

I have a manual 5 speed and want to know if there is an easy way to tell if the Jeep is in gear... you know, in case I'm drunk when I parked the night before and don't remember. Is there a 'neutral sensor' or some other means of telling if it is in gear? I know that I can crank the engine while it is in gear.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #57305  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I don't know if there is or not, but I do know it's illegal in several states to install remote start on a manual trans vehicle, due to that problem. May want to check local laws first if you're in an area with inspections.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 01:04 PM
  #57306  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I don't know if there is or not, but I do know it's illegal in several states to install remote start on a manual trans vehicle, due to that problem. May want to check local laws first if you're in an area with inspections.
Good point. Thanks!

If I decide to do it, I'll install an accelerometer that can detect motion and kill the start process instantly.

Actually, I'm pretty sure that leaving an unoccupied car running is illegal in my town regardless. That may be statewide...

Living in Colorado can get chilly and too many folks have vehicles stolen by doing just that.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 01:27 PM
  #57307  
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Is this a standard rod bearing or is it oversized?
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 02:35 PM
  #57308  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by mofo80503
Hi!
New here and thanks in advance for all the help I will be getting in the future!! ;-)

I installed a pushbutton start on my 1991 Cherokee and it works great. Now I want to install a remote start which will also be simple to do but my question is this.

I have a manual 5 speed and want to know if there is an easy way to tell if the Jeep is in gear... you know, in case I'm drunk when I parked the night before and don't remember. Is there a 'neutral sensor' or some other means of telling if it is in gear? I know that I can crank the engine while it is in gear.
Nope. The transmission only has provisions for a reverse switch. The clutch interlock switch is the only protection in the starting circuit.

You could build something that detects vehicle motion to kill it but I wouldn't really want that to be a defense. Possibly a custom-cast selector shaft and switch in the transfer case that would only let you start it when in Neutral...

My preference is a block heater on a timer
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 02:41 PM
  #57309  
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And does this look like the bearing that's been causing the sleight knocking in my engine?
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 03:22 PM
  #57310  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Yes, they are different by years. The RENIX Jeeps panel will be different from the OBDI 4.0 HO.

What you're looking at there is (from top left):

Parking brake / brake pedal max indicator
Security system (obvious)
Full Time / Part time was for systems with the NP 242 tc
Maint Reqd is linked to a maintenance interval timer.... take the bulb out. Dealerships don't even know how to make the light go out anymore.
Seatbelt warning lamp
Check Engine Light (self explanatory)
Low washer fluid
Shift up (manual trans only) - this is for optimal fuel economy and redline protection
ABS system needs work
Yeah, I got all that - well, wasn't exactly sure what kind of circuit the Maint Req light switch was on - this one was taped over from inside (factory) ...and the House shape / arrow ... manual -

Anyway...
-- Does anyone has pics of / access to alternate or other forms of this?
Modifications?
e.g. indicator for low/high range, ...indicator for which gear the Auto Trans is actually in, ...headlights On?
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:00 PM
  #57311  
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Originally Posted by RacerX
Yeah, I got all that - well, wasn't exactly sure what kind of circuit the Maint Req light switch was on - this one was taped over from inside (factory) ...and the House shape / arrow ... manual - Anyway... -- Does anyone has pics of / access to alternate or other forms of this? Modifications? e.g. indicator for low/high range, ...indicator for which gear the Auto Trans is actually in, ...headlights On?
Only variation I've seen of those panels is the diesel version. I'm sure someone with a 3D printer could make one.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:04 PM
  #57312  
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Originally Posted by salad
Yes, as close to zero drag as you can get. I wouldn't worry about a TINY bit of rubbing. You will need to mess with the adjuster/equalizer anyway to get proper handle pull.



Lol yeah they're the same thread.
Thanks for the sanity check Salad.

I definitely cross-threaded the tip of one of my new wheel studs because the lug nut was cross threaded I think.

two of the others gave me problems threading on too, so I am going to limp it a mile to the closest parts store and pick up some new lug nuts.


New question:
Can I change a wheel stud without pulling the axle out again? Any danger in pounding the stud out (4lb engineer hammer) while the c-clip is still attached to the axle if so?
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:06 PM
  #57313  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Is this a standard rod bearing or is it oversized?
.020" oversized. They dont look good either. But I dont think its worn enough to knock. Normally they have a lot more copper showing if it is knocking and didnt spin the bearing. You will have to measure the crank journal to verify the crank isnt worn down.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:33 PM
  #57314  
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I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.

Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 05:48 PM
  #57315  
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Originally Posted by salad
Nope. The transmission only has provisions for a reverse switch. The clutch interlock switch is the only protection in the starting circuit.

You could build something that detects vehicle motion to kill it but I wouldn't really want that to be a defense. Possibly a custom-cast selector shaft and switch in the transfer case that would only let you start it when in Neutral...

My preference is a block heater on a timer
Thanks!

That's kinda what I thought. The accelerometer would work reliably but a heater might be a better alternative.
It's actually not the engine I'm so worried about, it's the tranny. Mine really dislikes the cold and when it idles for a good 5-10 mins. before moving behaves a lot better.
In <10°F mornings, it really hates getting out of 1st.

My fluids are good, though I'm thinking I may drain and go with a higher end, wider temp range fluid.



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