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Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Thanks for the sanity check Salad.
I definitely cross-threaded the tip of one of my new wheel studs because the lug nut was cross threaded I think.
two of the others gave me problems threading on too, so I am going to limp it a mile to the closest parts store and pick up some new lug nuts.
New question:
Can I change a wheel stud without pulling the axle out again? Any danger in pounding the stud out (4lb engineer hammer) while the c-clip is still attached to the axle if so?
I definitely cross-threaded the tip of one of my new wheel studs because the lug nut was cross threaded I think.

two of the others gave me problems threading on too, so I am going to limp it a mile to the closest parts store and pick up some new lug nuts.
New question:
Can I change a wheel stud without pulling the axle out again? Any danger in pounding the stud out (4lb engineer hammer) while the c-clip is still attached to the axle if so?
No I wouldn't tempt fate banging on the C-clip like that. How would you get the stud out from the middle of the brake chamber, anyway?
I get the feeling you're just trying to save some gear oil and your RTV job lol. Sucks, but, sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.
Thanks!
That's kinda what I thought. The accelerometer would work reliably but a heater might be a better alternative.
It's actually not the engine I'm so worried about, it's the tranny. Mine really dislikes the cold and when it idles for a good 5-10 mins. before moving behaves a lot better.
In <10°F mornings, it really hates getting out of 1st.
My fluids are good, though I'm thinking I may drain and go with a higher end, wider temp range fluid.
That's kinda what I thought. The accelerometer would work reliably but a heater might be a better alternative.
It's actually not the engine I'm so worried about, it's the tranny. Mine really dislikes the cold and when it idles for a good 5-10 mins. before moving behaves a lot better.
In <10°F mornings, it really hates getting out of 1st.
My fluids are good, though I'm thinking I may drain and go with a higher end, wider temp range fluid.
If you're having that much trouble, look into one of the Redline fluids. I ran MT-90 in mine because the synchos were toast, made a huge difference. Redline MTL is slightly lower viscosity and even better in the winter. It's actually worth it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Oh, that sucks!
No I wouldn't tempt fate banging on the C-clip like that. How would you get the stud out from the middle of the brake chamber, anyway?
I get the feeling you're just trying to save some gear oil and your RTV job lol. Sucks, but, sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.
Ahh. I follow. Yes, it would be nice to have a heat exchanger to warm up the transmission oil, there's no replacement for the gears beating it around to warm it up.
If you're having that much trouble, look into one of the Redline fluids. I ran MT-90 in mine because the synchos were toast, made a huge difference. Redline MTL is slightly lower viscosity and even better in the winter. It's actually worth it.
Might want to try Modified Tech https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/
No I wouldn't tempt fate banging on the C-clip like that. How would you get the stud out from the middle of the brake chamber, anyway?
I get the feeling you're just trying to save some gear oil and your RTV job lol. Sucks, but, sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.
Ahh. I follow. Yes, it would be nice to have a heat exchanger to warm up the transmission oil, there's no replacement for the gears beating it around to warm it up.
If you're having that much trouble, look into one of the Redline fluids. I ran MT-90 in mine because the synchos were toast, made a huge difference. Redline MTL is slightly lower viscosity and even better in the winter. It's actually worth it.
Might want to try Modified Tech https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/
I run high end Valvoline in mine.
I saw that Valvoline has the widest temp-range available, at least in the parts store I was in. Not too expensive. I sleep on it a while... Thanks for the help and advice!
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: Gads Hill, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You can press the stud out, instead of beating on it with a hammer. I think you can get a tool specifically for it, or rig something up like a big c-clamp, with a spacer to go over the head of the stud. 10 minutes instead of 2 hours....
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: Gads Hill, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hi!
I have a manual 5 speed and want to know if there is an easy way to tell if the Jeep is in gear... you know, in case I'm drunk when I parked the night before and don't remember. Is there a 'neutral sensor' or some other means of telling if it is in gear? I know that I can crank the engine while it is in gear.
I have a manual 5 speed and want to know if there is an easy way to tell if the Jeep is in gear... you know, in case I'm drunk when I parked the night before and don't remember. Is there a 'neutral sensor' or some other means of telling if it is in gear? I know that I can crank the engine while it is in gear.
May have been tied into remote door locks also, that you needed to do a remote lock first, and unlock would also disable it. The only loophole I can see is if you left a window open, and somebody reached through the window to put it into gear.
Yeah, I got all that - well, wasn't exactly sure what kind of circuit the Maint Req light switch was on - this one was taped over from inside (factory) ...and the House shape / arrow ... manual -
Anyway...
-- Does anyone has pics of / access to alternate or other forms of this?
Modifications?
e.g. indicator for low/high range, ...indicator for which gear the Auto Trans is actually in, ...headlights On?
Anyway...
-- Does anyone has pics of / access to alternate or other forms of this?
Modifications?
e.g. indicator for low/high range, ...indicator for which gear the Auto Trans is actually in, ...headlights On?
Then just color the back portion of each light with whatever color you like with a sharpie or some type of dye.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I was looking a Royal Purple. My Harley friends swear by it though I think most of them imagine things ;-)
I run high end Valvoline in mine.
I saw that Valvoline has the widest temp-range available, at least in the parts store I was in. Not too expensive. I sleep on it a while... Thanks for the help and advice!
I run high end Valvoline in mine.
I saw that Valvoline has the widest temp-range available, at least in the parts store I was in. Not too expensive. I sleep on it a while... Thanks for the help and advice!
Which Valvoline oil are you running? Is it for synchronized boxes? You know GL-5 hypoid gear oil is bad for these transmissions, right?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 2
From: Southern Oregon
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Thank you
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I ask again
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Thank you
When I made a set of bastard packs I put in a set of oe bushings and they have been great.
I recommend putting some anti-seize on the leaf spring bolts so they don't seize to the collar on the inside of the bushings.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I ask again
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Thank you
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.
Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
Thank you
^THIS is very good advice from the guy that wrote the best write up on oil I've ever read. I put RP in my 8.25 diff on my '01 the last time only because its what my buddy had in the garage and he only had it because it was on sale, paying a premium for oil that doesn't give you the numbers is dumb.





