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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 06:37 PM
  #57316  
unidentifiedbomb's Avatar
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From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Anyone have experience with LI slider boxes? Deciding between those or HD no-lift SRB and boomerang shackles. I really like the slider design so far.
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 09:18 PM
  #57317  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
Thanks for the sanity check Salad.

I definitely cross-threaded the tip of one of my new wheel studs because the lug nut was cross threaded I think.

two of the others gave me problems threading on too, so I am going to limp it a mile to the closest parts store and pick up some new lug nuts.


New question:
Can I change a wheel stud without pulling the axle out again? Any danger in pounding the stud out (4lb engineer hammer) while the c-clip is still attached to the axle if so?
Oh, that sucks!

No I wouldn't tempt fate banging on the C-clip like that. How would you get the stud out from the middle of the brake chamber, anyway?

I get the feeling you're just trying to save some gear oil and your RTV job lol. Sucks, but, sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.

Originally Posted by mofo80503
Thanks!

That's kinda what I thought. The accelerometer would work reliably but a heater might be a better alternative.
It's actually not the engine I'm so worried about, it's the tranny. Mine really dislikes the cold and when it idles for a good 5-10 mins. before moving behaves a lot better.
In <10°F mornings, it really hates getting out of 1st.

My fluids are good, though I'm thinking I may drain and go with a higher end, wider temp range fluid.
Ahh. I follow. Yes, it would be nice to have a heat exchanger to warm up the transmission oil, there's no replacement for the gears beating it around to warm it up.

If you're having that much trouble, look into one of the Redline fluids. I ran MT-90 in mine because the synchos were toast, made a huge difference. Redline MTL is slightly lower viscosity and even better in the winter. It's actually worth it.

Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Anyone have experience with LI slider boxes? Deciding between those or HD no-lift SRB and boomerang shackles. I really like the slider design so far.
Might want to try Modified Tech https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 10:23 PM
  #57318  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.
So she goes? She's gone...F%##in way she goes!
Old Jan 12, 2017 | 11:11 PM
  #57319  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by kgm
So she goes? She's gone...F%##in way she goes!
Way of the road, bud!
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 09:51 AM
  #57320  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
And does this look like the bearing that's been causing the sleight knocking in my engine?
Quite possible, worn down to the copper is no good.
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 10:04 AM
  #57321  
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Originally Posted by salad
Oh, that sucks!

No I wouldn't tempt fate banging on the C-clip like that. How would you get the stud out from the middle of the brake chamber, anyway?

I get the feeling you're just trying to save some gear oil and your RTV job lol. Sucks, but, sometimes she goes, sometimes she doesn't go... that's just the way she goes.



Ahh. I follow. Yes, it would be nice to have a heat exchanger to warm up the transmission oil, there's no replacement for the gears beating it around to warm it up.

If you're having that much trouble, look into one of the Redline fluids. I ran MT-90 in mine because the synchos were toast, made a huge difference. Redline MTL is slightly lower viscosity and even better in the winter. It's actually worth it.



Might want to try Modified Tech https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/
I was looking a Royal Purple. My Harley friends swear by it though I think most of them imagine things ;-)

I run high end Valvoline in mine.

I saw that Valvoline has the widest temp-range available, at least in the parts store I was in. Not too expensive. I sleep on it a while... Thanks for the help and advice!
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 10:09 AM
  #57322  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by kgm

So she goes? She's gone...F%##in way she goes!
Originally Posted by salad

Way of the road, bud!
This made my day.

It doesn't take rocket appliances
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 11:17 AM
  #57323  
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From: Gads Hill, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
Thanks for the sanity check Salad.
New question:
Can I change a wheel stud without pulling the axle out again? Any danger in pounding the stud out (4lb engineer hammer) while the c-clip is still attached to the axle if so?
You can press the stud out, instead of beating on it with a hammer. I think you can get a tool specifically for it, or rig something up like a big c-clamp, with a spacer to go over the head of the stud. 10 minutes instead of 2 hours....
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 11:24 AM
  #57324  
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From: Gads Hill, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by mofo80503
Hi!
I have a manual 5 speed and want to know if there is an easy way to tell if the Jeep is in gear... you know, in case I'm drunk when I parked the night before and don't remember. Is there a 'neutral sensor' or some other means of telling if it is in gear? I know that I can crank the engine while it is in gear.
I've seen a commercial remote start unit that worked for manual transmissions. If I recall, you needed to follow a special procedure when you stopped, to be sure you were in neutral. Something like the vehicle needed to be running, you got out, and used the remote to STOP the engine. If you followed this procedure when stopping, this would enable the remote start. If any door opened after the REMOTE stopped the engine, it would disable the remote start.
May have been tied into remote door locks also, that you needed to do a remote lock first, and unlock would also disable it. The only loophole I can see is if you left a window open, and somebody reached through the window to put it into gear.
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 11:39 AM
  #57325  
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From: CA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Originally Posted by RacerX
Yeah, I got all that - well, wasn't exactly sure what kind of circuit the Maint Req light switch was on - this one was taped over from inside (factory) ...and the House shape / arrow ... manual -

Anyway...
-- Does anyone has pics of / access to alternate or other forms of this?
Modifications?
e.g. indicator for low/high range, ...indicator for which gear the Auto Trans is actually in, ...headlights On?
You can make one relatively easily, get a clear piece of Plexiglas, cut it to the same size as the original. Design a die cut sticker you want to overlay it, or have someone who makes vinyl stickers help you with that part. Use somewhat thick black vinyl material so the light wont bleed through.

Then just color the back portion of each light with whatever color you like with a sharpie or some type of dye.

Old Jan 13, 2017 | 01:03 PM
  #57326  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by mofo80503
I was looking a Royal Purple. My Harley friends swear by it though I think most of them imagine things ;-)

I run high end Valvoline in mine.

I saw that Valvoline has the widest temp-range available, at least in the parts store I was in. Not too expensive. I sleep on it a while... Thanks for the help and advice!
Royal Purple is a divisive subject. A lot of racing (or wannabe) racers swear by the stuff. I believe in science and facts. RP doesn't publish any specifications or data about their products, and I've got bad experiences with their gear oil SynchroMax.

Which Valvoline oil are you running? Is it for synchronized boxes? You know GL-5 hypoid gear oil is bad for these transmissions, right?
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 01:50 PM
  #57327  
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From: Southern Oregon
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.

Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?
I ask again

I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.

Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?

Thank you
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #57328  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper

I ask again

I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.

Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?

Thank you
They'll probably be fine, ome makes great stuff and everyone has different experiences.
When I made a set of bastard packs I put in a set of oe bushings and they have been great.

I recommend putting some anti-seize on the leaf spring bolts so they don't seize to the collar on the inside of the bushings.
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 02:22 PM
  #57329  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I ask again

I'm interested in opinions for leaf spring bushings, I'm piecing together a lift and I'm looking at OME (Old Man Emu) leaf springs but I've heard the bushings from them have some minor issues, fitment, squeaks, etc.

Does anyone have recommendations on bushings or should I just go with the OME bushings?

Thank you
quite a few folks run ome in my area and come into the shop. Never heard squeaky bushings as a complaint. Or any complaints at all hahah
Old Jan 13, 2017 | 03:31 PM
  #57330  
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Posts: 135
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From: Colorado
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by salad
Royal Purple is a divisive subject. A lot of racing (or wannabe) racers swear by the stuff. I believe in science and facts. RP doesn't publish any specifications or data about their products
^THIS is very good advice from the guy that wrote the best write up on oil I've ever read. I put RP in my 8.25 diff on my '01 the last time only because its what my buddy had in the garage and he only had it because it was on sale, paying a premium for oil that doesn't give you the numbers is dumb.



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