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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: upstate, New York
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
I believe this site serves to further the mechanical education for most, is that not so?
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Or sometimes somone doesn't have the expertise to diagnose the problem nor the money to pay a mechanic to do the same. So if the band aid is working , they continue it until finance or further eduction allows for a more permanent remedy. I believe this site serves to further the mechanical education for most, is that not so?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Or sometimes somone doesn't have the expertise to diagnose the problem nor the money to pay a mechanic to do the same. So if the band aid is working , they continue it until finance or further eduction allows for a more permanent remedy.
I believe this site serves to further the mechanical education for most, is that not so?
I believe this site serves to further the mechanical education for most, is that not so?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Someone asked about vanishing coolant and he came along and said he has the same problem ffor 8 years. The person that initially asked the question will think that just continually filling the reservoir is a good solution when it's just bad advice.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: upstate, New York
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
So Insted of chastising him for not knowing or preforming the correct maintanence, let them know that their actions are wrong and what they can do to diagnose and remedy the situation.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
trying to. He said there's nothing he can do and I asked if finding the leak was an option haha. If and when he posts back with what he had tried we can better help. If he just doesn't want to there's nothing we can do. But we're clogging the thread. We'll wait for him to come back
Hey guys, new here but been creeping for a loooong long time. Finally got my first Cherokee on Friday.1993 2.5l manual. I'm 21, wanted one since I was 14 but the " go fast" bug always had my priorities, until recently when I've started hunting on my own ( instead of with my uncle) and having responsibilities even when the weather is bad. So anyways, I've spent the weekend doing all the simple things. Plugs & wires, dizzy cap, sea foam, pcv elbows and hoses, finding leaks and rust and all kinda of fun stuff.
Anyways on topic, it developed a pretty bad belt squeal after the 45 minute drive home ( seller must have wd40'd the crap out of it for it to stop while I was test driving). I've narrowed it down to the lower idler pulley, the one just right of the alternator. Took the belt off, started cranking at the bolt that holds said idler pulley, and it just keeps spinning. And spinning. And spinning.
How does this thing come off?....
thanks!
Anyways on topic, it developed a pretty bad belt squeal after the 45 minute drive home ( seller must have wd40'd the crap out of it for it to stop while I was test driving). I've narrowed it down to the lower idler pulley, the one just right of the alternator. Took the belt off, started cranking at the bolt that holds said idler pulley, and it just keeps spinning. And spinning. And spinning.
How does this thing come off?....
thanks!
Last edited by 93exjay; Jan 16, 2017 at 02:55 PM. Reason: Details
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hey guys, new here but been creeping for a loooong long time. Finally got my first Cherokee on Friday.1993 2.5l manual. I'm 21, wanted one since I was 14 but the " go fast" bug always had my priorities, until recently when I've started hunting on my own ( instead of with my uncle) and having responsibilities even when the weather is bad. So anyways, I've spent the weekend doing all the simple things. Plugs & wires, dizzy cap, sea foam, pcv elbows and hoses, finding leaks and rust and all kinda of fun stuff.
Anyways on topic, it developed a pretty bad belt squeal after the 45 minute drive home ( seller must have wd40'd the crap out of it for it to stop while I was test driving). I've narrowed it down to the lower idler pulley, the one just right of the alternator. Took the belt off, started cranking at the bolt that holds said idler pulley, and it just keeps spinning. And spinning. And spinning.
How does this thing come off?....
thanks!
Anyways on topic, it developed a pretty bad belt squeal after the 45 minute drive home ( seller must have wd40'd the crap out of it for it to stop while I was test driving). I've narrowed it down to the lower idler pulley, the one just right of the alternator. Took the belt off, started cranking at the bolt that holds said idler pulley, and it just keeps spinning. And spinning. And spinning.
How does this thing come off?....
thanks!
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: upstate, New York
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1991 I6 4.0 HO
I know there are many threads on axels, an I believe I read most of them, to no avail.
So before I decide to start a new thread, I thought to ask here 1st.
Question :
There is an 88 or 89 Jeep I have been working on with somone . I the past It had been used quite often for towing and he plans to use it to tow also once it's on the road again.
It has a broken rear spring so replacment ones are in order. The rear Axel doesn't look great eather, and we can't even get the diff cover off.
My local salvage yards don't have any older Cherokee's, so I searched the net.
I have the opportunity to purchase locally, a complete Spicer 44 rear axle from an MJ, delivered to us.
I am aware that it is a spring under design as opposed to the spring over of the Cherokee axel.
The seller happens to have a pair of S-10 springs he will throw in too. And I know about the "bastard packs" that people do to get lift with claims of 4+ inches of lift (I have seen the write ups).
So I am wondering if we could install the MJ Spicer 44 rear in an XJ Cherokee, without cutting and welding of the perches on the axel, and using "bastard packs" in the stock perches and maybe lift shackles, totaling enough to get past the negative lift of the un modified axel. All this, to avoid welding and more importaintly, save some money.
Caviat:
I am fairly certain that the vast majority would advise against this and offer alternatives. I do know there are many alternatives. I even wish we could find somone who would deliever a Chrysler 8.25 with springs for under 400. That would be the easiest, but it does not seem in the cards.
SO I can not stop people from chiming in with aspersions towards this idea and alternatives, but I would like to hope for and ask for responces that speak to, if and how, this idea I have can be done, with pros an cons if so desired .
Thank you all in advance.
So before I decide to start a new thread, I thought to ask here 1st.
Question :
There is an 88 or 89 Jeep I have been working on with somone . I the past It had been used quite often for towing and he plans to use it to tow also once it's on the road again.
It has a broken rear spring so replacment ones are in order. The rear Axel doesn't look great eather, and we can't even get the diff cover off.
My local salvage yards don't have any older Cherokee's, so I searched the net.
I have the opportunity to purchase locally, a complete Spicer 44 rear axle from an MJ, delivered to us.
I am aware that it is a spring under design as opposed to the spring over of the Cherokee axel.
The seller happens to have a pair of S-10 springs he will throw in too. And I know about the "bastard packs" that people do to get lift with claims of 4+ inches of lift (I have seen the write ups).
So I am wondering if we could install the MJ Spicer 44 rear in an XJ Cherokee, without cutting and welding of the perches on the axel, and using "bastard packs" in the stock perches and maybe lift shackles, totaling enough to get past the negative lift of the un modified axel. All this, to avoid welding and more importaintly, save some money.
Caviat:
I am fairly certain that the vast majority would advise against this and offer alternatives. I do know there are many alternatives. I even wish we could find somone who would deliever a Chrysler 8.25 with springs for under 400. That would be the easiest, but it does not seem in the cards.
SO I can not stop people from chiming in with aspersions towards this idea and alternatives, but I would like to hope for and ask for responces that speak to, if and how, this idea I have can be done, with pros an cons if so desired .
Thank you all in advance.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Short answer:
The perches aren't just SUA. They're also spaced differently than XJ spring perches. You'd still have to weld on new ones either way.
A '97-01 C8.25 will be just as strong and will bolt right in
The perches aren't just SUA. They're also spaced differently than XJ spring perches. You'd still have to weld on new ones either way.
A '97-01 C8.25 will be just as strong and will bolt right in
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0





