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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
If you want MY opinion, Timkin has been making ball & roller bearings since they started business in 1898, Moog makes really good suspension parts like tie rod ends and bushings since 1919. Timkin made most of the bearings for military equipment during WWII and engine bearings for Pratt&Whitney. Yes, some are made overseas now, but they still have to pass quality control.
I always go with Timkin for bearings and Moog for suspension joints. I just put 2 Moog lower balljoints in my WJ because they were the only ones that were greaseable. They came from the UK and I'll grease them again when I have to take it apart for front shafts or hub bearings, IF I can get the plugs out!
Originally Posted by salad
Only bearings worth buying are Timken or SKF as far as I'm concerned. Timken is the Jeep OE.
Glad you guys piped up. I was thinking this, but I didn't have any hard data to proceed. My thinking was correct though, Moog makes great chassis/suspension parts, but that doesn't mean every section of the market they touch turns to gold.
Bosch makes awesome fuel pumps and injectors, but the 4.0 HATES the O2 sensors.
I certainly won't buy any other bearings but Timken myself. They're proven.
Originally Posted by salad
I edited my post to reflect the context. You guys get your panties un-twisted.
lol... just doin' unto others, brosef!
Originally Posted by rcguymike
Unless someone(I know he wasn't but the conversation could sound like it to others) is talking using a front driveshaft in the rear after a lift.
lol... I have that same chart saved in my favorites.
Originally Posted by rcguymike
well that thread ended on a crappy note...
ba-dum-tcsh!
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I also had an '01 without any head issues, but that doesn't mean they aren't problematic. Statistics will always mean more than anecdotal evidence.
My ex has an '04 WJ with a working D44a, but we bought the extended warranty because they're known for blowing up during normal street driving.
It's a gamble. I hope you never encounter a reason to change your mind, but why would you want to gamble on something proven to be faulty when it's so easy to swap the head or to buy an earlier model that doesn't have three cats and four O2 sensors?
Exactly. My parents had an 04 WJ. They bought it used with probably about 50k miles on it. They drove it home to Kentucky, and within a year of owning it, the stupid D44a went out. I couldn't believe it and originally thought the mechanic that replaced it was full of crap. Until I owned one myself and did more research.
Another perfect example is the Chrysler 3.5 liter v6. The maintenance interval for the timing belt is 105k miles. After that, the motor is a ticking time bomb. Some will fail shortly after, some will go for another 50k miles or more without having an issue with the belt. Only problem is, when the belt snaps on that engine, it's catastrophic failure. Yay for interference engines.
Glad you guys piped up. I was thinking this, but I didn't have any hard data to proceed. My thinking was correct though, Moog makes great chassis/suspension parts, but that doesn't mean every section of the market they touch turns to gold. Bosch makes awesome fuel pumps and injectors, but the 4.0 HATES the O2 sensors. I certainly won't buy any other bearings but Timken myself. They're proven. lol... just doin' unto others, brosef! lol... I have that same chart saved in my favorites. ba-dum-tcsh! Exactly. My parents had an 04 WJ. They bought it used with probably about 50k miles on it. They drove it home to Kentucky, and within a year of owning it, the stupid D44a went out. I couldn't believe it and originally thought the mechanic that replaced it was full of crap. Until I owned one myself and did more research. Another perfect example is the Chrysler 3.5 liter v6. The maintenance interval for the timing belt is 105k miles. After that, the motor is a ticking time bomb. Some will fail shortly after, some will go for another 50k miles or more without having an issue with the belt. Only problem is, when the belt snaps on that engine, it's catastrophic failure. Yay for interference engines.
looks like I'll be going with timken then. But speaking of O2 sensors, why does the 4.0 hate Bosch cause that's what I replaced mine with?
makes great chassis/suspension parts, but that doesn't mean every section of the market they touch turns to gold.
Moog is a Federal Mogul brand. Overall I give them thumbs up for aftermarket parts but I have no idea if Federal Mogul is in the bearing sector. Either way, you can't beat the OE quality, and on Jeeps, OE hard parts are pretty durn cheap. (Spicer ball joints are a steal)
Originally Posted by Basslicks
lol... just doin' unto others, brosef!
NO U
Originally Posted by Basslicks
Another perfect example is the Chrysler 3.5 liter v6. The maintenance interval for the timing belt is 105k miles. After that, the motor is a ticking time bomb. Some will fail shortly after, some will go for another 50k miles or more without having an issue with the belt. Only problem is, when the belt snaps on that engine, it's catastrophic failure. Yay for interference engines.
That's pretty normal for belts. I think more people would change 'em regularly if they weren't so ****ing hard to access - and thus expensive. I was esctatic when I discovered that Ford switched back to a timing chain for the 2005 Duratec 2.0L (my backup daily driver)
Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
looks like I'll be going with timken then. But speaking of O2 sensors, why does the 4.0 hate Bosch cause that's what I replaced mine with?
Not certain why the Jeep PCMs have issues with Bosch O2 sensors. The OE is NTK.
That's pretty normal for belts. I think more people would change 'em regularly if they weren't so ****ing hard to access - and thus expensive. I was esctatic when I discovered that Ford switched back to a timing chain for the 2005 Duratec 2.0L (my backup daily driver)
Yeah tell me about it. I have the kit ready to go for my wife's 300m. Not looking forward to the job even a little bit. Gotta basically pull apart the entire front end of the car. Thankfully, the motor is mounted longitudinal instead of transverse like most FWD cars.
Yeah tell me about it. I have the kit ready to go for my wife's 300m. Not looking forward to the job even a little bit. Gotta basically pull apart the entire front end of the car. Thankfully, the motor is mounted longitudinal instead of transverse like most FWD cars.
So you only have to remove the entire cooling system instead of the axles? Lol
So you only have to remove the entire cooling system instead of the axles? Lol
lol... just about. The writeup I looked up from either 300mclub.com or LHForums.net (honestly can't remember which it was) said that you can lower the radiator mounting brace, remove the top brace, remove the hoses, and have plenty of room... after removing the front bumper, of course. I'm fine with all that, I just don't want to jack up my AC lines n fittings in the process.
Yeah tell me about it. I have the kit ready to go for my wife's 300m. Not looking forward to the job even a little bit. Gotta basically pull apart the entire front end of the car. Thankfully, the motor is mounted longitudinal instead of transverse like most FWD cars.
Atleast its not an Audi where you have to pull the motor to replace the chain. My buddy gets really cheap audis due to that. I think its in the V6 engines? I can't remember. Stupid design.
A search of this thread shows that some are having the issue I am, but I have not seen a fix suggested other than "be prepared to replace them" in ref to some mounts that were rusted.
My pass side mount is not rusted per say, it has been driven into the sheet metal that it is mounted to, cracking the sheet metal mounting location and torquing it towards the front of the Jeep.
I removed the plastic trim in the area and there is no access to the rear of the mount stud without opening the sheet metal as far as I can see. My friend asked if we could weld it. I am not up to speed on the thickness of the body in that spot, but it seems to be about an 1/8th", anyone?
I have tried to turn the stud with a torx and all that happened was the shaft of the stud started to turn, but the base stayed fixed... meaning I was going to snap the stud head off.
I have ordered some used replacement studs that, by picture, seem in decent shape so I will have some spares to work with.
I am asking, is there some way other than cutting out the bad and welding in the good to do this fix/repair?
For the Advance Adapters HD SYE kit for a XJ. Tailhousing seal Federal Mogul 3946 Chicago Rawhide 18662 Rear Yoke seal washer Jeep 4210973 NVG 13695 Rear Yoke Nut Spicer 44189 GM 14037991 Jeep 4167924 NVG 13368
don't have the bearing part number u ll have to call advance adapters. However I don't think u would need to replace it. U don't have to get one of each seal. That's just different brands.
I meant like seal, yoke seal washer and nut, and there's vertical slop like you can pick it up and down a little and there's bad sounds and vibrations coming from the entire driveline at highway speeds. I was going to completely rebuild the transfer case and get new driveshafts.
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
1992 jeep cherokee Rear Liftgate Lift Shock Strut Lower Mounts
