I wouldn't put much worry into the wheels being lug centric. The steel wheels are a fraction of an inch thick and mounted directly to the mounting surface, thereby minimizing the leverage on the lugs. Even aluminum wheels being a little thicker and still mounted flush with the mounting surface keeping most of the leverage to a minimum. The biggest reason for making sure you get hubcentric spacers is because with the spacers, now you're multiplying the amount of leverage on the lugs considerably.

 

Thanks for the info guys. It seems like anytime I buy parts, there is a problem with the year. couldnt wire up the stereo because I was looking at a 90 wiring diagram, but the guy at crutchfield said that the wire colors I was describing were on a 91. I dunno!?

 

didn't needed a jack or a cheater pipe, all I needed was my 18" breaker bar. Lol

 

Yeeaaahhh, you can't really count on the information that Crutchfield provides. It's not accurate. Every vehicle I've ever had, their "what fits my car" feature has been proven to be wrong. It would say I have speakers that clearly aren't there. Would say that speakers I wanted to buy wouldn't fit even though they came in the vehicle from the factory. I just don't trust their database.

One thing I've learned over the years is that Crutchfield is GREAT for home audio, and for looking up specs on audio equipment that you want.... but that's pretty much where it ends.

 

FTFY

:P

 

Lol. Don't hate.

 

BAHAHAHA!!!

 

Question. On my 01 with np231. Can I just unhook the front Ds at the pinion and hook it up under the jeep. Or does the front yoke of the TC spin in 2HI?

 

Yes.

No.

Pundits may suggest that the yoke may spin to what is essentially hydraulic action, since the disengaged sprocket is resting on a moving shaft, but that should be stopped by a good zip ties.

 

Probably test it tomorrow. Need a temp solution for highway driving. Next month gonna buy a new drive shaft but until then i want to see if i can string it up for any long drives where ill be doing 65mph.

 

^ Sketchy!
Just take a 5/16" 12-point wrench to it.
Ever see what happens when the front end of a driveshaft drops to ground and encounters a crack in road?

 

It's only 4 more bolts to remove it completely. Better safe than sorry

 

After reading about snapped bolts and cutting torch repairs I was a bit over cautious. I'll take my rust worries over your rust reality anyday. Anyway, I didn't have any of those problems on the passenger side. Everything came apart and went back together as it should (thank you Jeep gods) so now I just need to put some miles on the springs, torque to spec, repeat.

NOTE for others who might be contemplating the Rubicon Express 3.5" leaf packs...the indexing pin did not fit in the hole on the spring perch at all. I ended up taking out both index pins and grinding off enough material to fit in the holes.

 

I know. I hate those TC side bolts. I may give it a local test. Not worried about the shaft dropping. I can keep the bastard tied up good and stop her from wiggling. Idk, worst case ill drop the whole shaft and stay 2wd for a month if need be. Gonna save up for a toms wood shaft or adams driveline

 

Crutchfield was wrong:

http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/200...ring-info.html