Well I'm back and this time I've found a few random wires and hoses that arent connected to anything. I'm not sure if they need to be connected or what they go to anyone have any ideas as to what they are?

First up is this guy. A 4 prong connector it runs in the main wire loom where the IAC wires run.


I looked around and didnt see any other 4 prong connectors anywhere.

Next up is this wierd looking guy


Its sitting right below the coolant overflow bottle. Used MS paint to show where it runs through the wire loom.

Next are these two. They are near the overflow bottle also. The bigger hose looks like it might connect to the thing in the picture above? It plugs in fine but not sure if they go together. Tried following them through the wire loom but it runs by the passenger inner fender down by the battery and out twards the radiator

The smaller wire/hose looks like the end of it was broken off.

The last one is in a wire loom on the firewall and it runs to the fuse box by the battery. I didnt see any other connectors that could go with it so I am stumped.


If these are all supposed to be connected to something I'm surprised the jeep runs at all. Sorry for the long post but I didnt want to make a random thread for wires.

Edit: The 4 prong connector actually doesnt go to the IAC I was mistaken. It does run through the big wire loom that the IAC wires go through though.

 

Well my passenger side power window finally ate ****. And it fell down when that happened.

How hard is it to replace the entire door? Do you just take out those few Torx bits, and unhook all the power leads? Lock will be different but who cares.

 

Would a no-lift bracket allow me the ability to move the mourning point forward thus increasing the arc of the leafs? (Just trying to understand the benefits.) As for the angle...they are practically 90 degrees vertical.


It is a Rough Country 3" lift with AAL. Does the brand make a difference?

 

Somewhat, but the AAL part does. As a fellow RC 3" AAL owner, you have my sympathies.

Sorry dude.

Nope. The depression of the spring packs' arc is caused by how much weight you've got resting on them. Either the spring rate needs to be increased or weight removed if you want to change that.

A standard shackle relocation bracket will give you additional lift as well as let you move your shackle mounting point forward to correct that vertical angle.

Now. All this said, your spring will continue to sag. This I can guarantee. You also stand a small chance of the factory leaves actually snapping due to the amount of tension on them (they were already fatigued when the AAL was added, then you added a heavy bumper, and presumably you want to beat on this thing a bit, maybe even put stuff in the cargo area).

This would be a good time to buy new leaf springs if you can find the dough. If not, relocation brackets are a solid investment.

 

I'm shying away from relocation brackets simply because I think the leafs will remain flat or worse over time. I'm not adverse to spending some money on the right leaf springs. The question now is, which are the right leaf springs? Since I'm planning to keep the bumper/carrier and put stuff in the rear AND beat it a bit I was thinking of erring on the side of caution and getting 3.5" or 4.5" leaf packs. Any thoughts on this?

And thanks salad. Your logic and discussion is good as always.

 

3.5" Rubicon Express full leaf packs. They generally sit higher than advertised, and that's good news if you're carrying extra weight. But relocation brackets will still likely benefit you in conjunction with proper leafs.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. I guess I just needed someone else to confirm what I already suspected. I just ordered 3.5" leaf springs and new U-bolts.

 

the relocation brackets help with smoother and better quality of ride on the road too.

 

Yes, but were you planning on replacing the door to begin with or are you replacing the whole door to fix your window?

 

I already was, the rear view mirror is all banged up, door is dented & scratched.

 

Ok... just making sure. Yes, the doors are basically plug n play...

JP Magazine did a writeup on them a while back... basically the only difference will be the location of the door striker, but that's a pretty simple fix.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/bo...j-door-upgade/

 

Brought the leafs home last night. Soaked all attachment bolts with Liquid Wrench over night but these bolts are not budging. I'm searching the forums and YouTube but so far nothing that's really helpful. Anyone have a link to a good DIY for removing the leaf springs?

 

I would suggest buying a can of ZEP 45 penetrating fluid, it's the best in my opinion, I've used the others. It does have a strong smell and is some what expensive, my experience was when I had a bicycle repair shop, a bike came in with the chain frozen solid, after taking it off the bike I was able to literally stand it up against the wall. I sprayed it well and left it over night, the next morning it was completely unfrozen, the customer was happy he didn't have to pay for a new chain. You can find it on Amazon.

 

This info has been floating around for while...
I feel like the acetone just ate up the salt water corrosion best. However I don't think one oil vs another will be night and day difference. I used a breaker bar and deep well socket (3" extension on the front frame leaf bolts). A lot of people end up breaking the welded nut inside the uni-frame. Just give everything it time extra to soak. You can reach some of the welded nuts inside the frame rail by some access holes to get some penetrating oil on it. You might need to apply some heat (use common sense since it's soaked with oil). Break it free as you would like you're tapping new threading. Ease it out, and tightening it back in, and so fourth to keep the threads clean.

 

I have heard of (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.v the question I have is how long does it take to work? My experience with the bike chain and the ZEP 45 was when I lived in Florida and the bike had been sitting outside for a long time. I'm going to try the ATF/Acitone the next time I have to deal with a rusted bolt to see how well it works.