Good to go with the sealer only on #11.

 

So, I have been following shawgnutz's post on replacing the inner shift boot.

I've got an '86 XJ, and things are going fairly well, except for:

My current guess is that the upper and lower parts of the shifter level are rusted together. Neither my husband nor I could get the two separated using a vise, prybar, and rubber mallet. I even sprayed things down with brake cleaner, but no go.

I'd rather not spring for a new shift lever. I've already put a bank into what most of my family considers a worthless money pit. Any tips on splitting the shift lever?

Thanks!

 

For a Jeep that only sees VERY mild off-road usage (like a flat trail to a camp site or similar) and is on the highway 99% of the time, is there any reason to spend more than 30-40 bucks on replacing my motor mounts?

 

My theory is if it failed once, it will fail again.

the jeep 4.0L will easily damage the driver side engine mount even with street only truck. If you never tow, never accelerate hard/floor it or never use low range then go with stock mounts but otherwise, spend the extra money. You won't have to do it again.

The more expensive engine mounts are also stiffer. When I replaced mine, it took a little while to get used to the extra vibration but I have the peace of mind that I won't have to replace them again.

 

Probably not. I'm going on 5 years on my wife's XJ and they're fine. Stock replacements from Napa.

 

Water pump / thermo housing install...

Are you guys using just the gasket? Or RTV on both sides? Which kind of RTV?

 

I just clean it off with a wire wheel and use just the gasket.

 

Check Engine light came on. Took it to Advance Auto Parts and they said my first and second cylinder are misfiring and 4 of my O2 sensors are malfunctioning. Anyone experienced this before? Any helpful advice before i take it to a shop?

 

Gasket with a light coating of GasgaCinch on each side for me.

 

Cruise control on a 1998 or similar

When you press the "Set" button on the bottom left side, does it CLICK like the on/off button does?
Mine does not click like the other controls do...I am not sure if this is the problem.

 

Yes.

For the 3rd time.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/g...ite-up-357569/


How do you remove the driveshaft U-joint?
Do you just remove the 4 bolts (2 shown here) and it comes right off?
That looks like it would allow you to pull the driveshaft away,
but how do you pull out the other two ends from the driveshaft?

Also, can someone help me to order a U-joint from ROCKAUTO?
What is the kind I need? I already replace the u-joints near the front brakes.
Those are called "Front axle" u-joints? I need CV at driveshaft u-joint?
Which one do I need?

MOOG/PRECISION Part # 280 Greaseable Super Strength One of our most popular parts
Front Driveshaft at Front Axle; 4WD; Premium; w/1-1/16" O.D. Bearings
Front Driveshaft - CV at Transfer Case; 4WD; Premium

 

Just undo those bolts and the shaft will slide off the slip yoke for the front axle, you will remove 4 bolts at each end, pull the slip joint together a little and the shaft will fall out you need a new centering ball and 5 new u joints to rebuild both drive shafts

 

The bolts old the straps on to the pinion or transfer case yoke, for the DS you need to borrow or buy a press, or you can accomplish the same thing with sockets and a vise. If you have rust you'll want a press that you can put a breaker bar on. Same kit used for ball joints.

That's the correct part. Don't forget to actually grease them if you buy greasable

 

What is this between the center console and the passenger seat in my 1995 cherokee?