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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:17 AM
  #34036  
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
OK I'm bringing the red optima back to the parts store to get load tested and If its bad I want to replace it with a yellow top or blue top. Which should I get
You should read the descriptions of each.

It's pretty self explanatory.

Red Top- Starting
Yellow top - Dual purpose Starting/deep cycle
Blue Top - Deep cycle
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:21 AM
  #34037  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

You should read the descriptions of each.

It's pretty self explanatory.

Red Top- Starting
Yellow top - Dual purpose Starting/deep cycle
Blue Top - Deep cycle
If I'm correct I think the D34M blue top is also dual purpose. Eric's XJ used that one.

Last edited by ccooper1234; Aug 2, 2013 at 11:25 AM.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #34038  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
If I'm correct I think the D34M blue top is also dual purpose. Eric's XJ used that one.
I won't say you're wrong because I don't feel like looking it up but I'm pretty sure the only dual purpose Optimas are the Yellow Tops.

I'm sure a blue top would start your Jeep, that's just not what it was designed for.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #34039  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

I won't say you're wrong because I don't feel like looking it up but I'm pretty sure the only dual purpose Optimas are the Yellow Tops.

I'm sure a blue top would start your Jeep, that's just not what it was designed for.
http://www.ericsxj.com/winch/winchbumper5.htm
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 12:07 PM
  #34040  
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Originally Posted by ccooper1234
Nice, I stand corrected.

Get that one.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #34041  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
When checking the tranny fluid level,
is it ok to check it in PARK (while running)
instead of NEUTRAL (while running)

Any difference?
I checked in PARK (not NEUTRAL) and want to know if I should check it again.
Dipstick has instructions on it......................
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #34042  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Dipstick has instructions on it......................
Indeed it does.


Is there anyway to run WJ knuckles without removing/changing the stock trackbar bracket?

I really want the bigger brakes and better steering on my DD but it's only going to be lifted 2.5"
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 05:56 PM
  #34043  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Indeed it does.


Is there anyway to run WJ knuckles without removing/changing the stock trackbar bracket?

I really want the bigger brakes and better steering on my DD but it's only going to be lifted 2.5"
Have you done rear discs yet? I can't remember.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #34044  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Have you done rear discs yet? I can't remember.
Not yet. A 12-point 7mm socket kept me from getting the backing plates last time i was at the JY. It's on the to-do list though.

I guess I'm really after the steering. I dont really need one-tone steering. I'm only going to be running 30s. I just want to get rid of the bumpsteer and the general sucky-ness of the stock inverted Y setup.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #34045  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
Not yet. A 12-point 7mm socket kept me from getting the backing plates last time i was at the JY. It's on the to-do list though.

I guess I'm really after the steering. I dont really need one-tone steering. I'm only going to be running 30s. I just want to get rid of the bumpsteer and the general sucky-ness of the stock inverted Y setup.
What were you trying to get them off from?
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #34046  
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
Okay so I've got a 96 cherokee SE figured out the fuse for the radio and DC outlet was blown so I replaced it and it blew again checked all the wires I could through where the radio goes and on the outlet coudn't find anything I'll figure it out some other time I didn't have a diagram for the fuse box either looked online too. But my real question is while I was down there I unplugged that ******! buzzer that buzz's when you open the door when I started it up after the key was hard to turn so I put it back in and it still is hard to turn starts fine but it's kinda hard to turn any ideas?

Thanks!
The key is almost back to normal now except the last little bit Idk what might of caused it but it seams to be getting better so hopefully it goes away =P

Haven't looked into the radio fuse anymore at a stand still on that... dunno I'm not much at wireing
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #34047  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

What were you trying to get them off from?
A ZJ. I needed the 7mm 12pt for the screw holding the cross pin in. I asked every **** in there. Nothing. I'll get it eventually.

On the WJ knuckles.

I'd be running 16" wheels. No problem with that clearence.

I'm willing to hack off the stock sway bar links and make ones that'll clear.

So what's left for me...

Could I use offset TREs of some sort to clear the TB mount? The stock WJ TREs look offset a little bit.

Would the angles work with an adjustable track bar and the stock axle side TB mount?

I don't even know about the pitman arm, would it be too low? Too high? Lol

Would be going on 2.5" of lift.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 07:31 PM
  #34048  
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Originally Posted by DieselD
A ZJ. I needed the 7mm 12pt for the screw holding the cross pin in. I asked every **** in there. Nothing. I'll get it eventually.
Went through this yanking my own ZJ discs. It's 1/4", very frickin tight, and very frickin small, 7mm might just slip.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #34049  
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Originally Posted by salad
Went through this yanking my own ZJ discs. It's 1/4", very frickin tight, and very frickin small, 7mm might just slip.
Yeah. What's up with all this mumblemeters ****?
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #34050  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Yeah. What's up with all this mumblemeters ****?
Mayonnaisemeters. It's French.



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