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Old Jul 30, 2013 | 08:07 AM
  #33886  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
but look on the bright side. Their oxygen sensors and shocks don't rust.
But where is the fun in that though. Cursing the rust is half the project

Originally Posted by Lowrange2
I like the delay so I don't trip over opossums, squirrels, rabbits, snakes and all the copper lines that run from my Shine Still to my kitchen sink faucet.
so you don't have pigeons, rats, dogs, and cats to worry about. Lucky

Originally Posted by salad
Of course it doesn't help that your arms are full with an armadillo you hit on the way home, gonna cook it up for dinner, right?
iis it even easy to cook an armadillo lol
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 08:19 AM
  #33887  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
iis it even easy to cook an armadillo lol
I have no idea. I just remember that line from one of the GTA games from a "Learn Redneck Pretty Fast" commercial: "Armadilla's good eatin': 's like a lobster, 'cept you run over it 'n eat it"
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 09:40 AM
  #33888  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Could anyone with a 96 or older pull the switches from the inside of the front driver door jamb and tell me what color wires are attached to it?

Last edited by tssguy123; Jul 30, 2013 at 09:52 AM.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #33889  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
Could anyone with a 96 or older pull the switches from the inside of the front driver door jamb and tell me what color wires are attached to it?
The interior light switch?
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #33890  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
The interior light switch?
Yeah, the one on the inside of the door jamb that controls the buzzer if you have the door open with the key in the ignition and turns the dome light on if the doors are open. If you take it out, be very careful not to pull it out more than like an inch.

Almost 100% sure it's yellow yellow black but I need to be sure before I cut into it.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #33891  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
Yeah, the one on the inside of the door jamb that controls the buzzer if you have the door open with the key in the ignition and turns the dome light on if the doors are open. If you take it out, be very careful not to pull it out more than like an inch.

Almost 100% sure it's yellow yellow black but I need to be sure before I cut into it.
Why are you cutting into it? Just trying to figure out what you're trying to do.

I can look when I get home. Mine have plenty slack in the wiring.

If you're trying to bypass them all you have to do is unplug it.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:22 AM
  #33892  
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From: New York
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by xj1119
Hi!
I've got a rust hole on my roof right next to the roof rack on the passenger side. My guess is that the whole section around that bolt hole and rust hole need to be replaced. Was going to have a friend patch it with sheet metal, but would it be better to try and get a chunk of roof from a donor XJ, due to the raised section of metal for the roof rack? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

It's a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 172k. Local junkyard said they can cut me a chunk of metal out of one of their cherokees, they would just charge me $50. Just want a second opinion or other ideas/choices. Attached is a photo of the damage.


OR...http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...chop-tops.html
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #33893  
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From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Why are you cutting into it? Just trying to figure out what you're trying to do.

I can look when I get home. Mine have plenty slack in the wiring.

If you're trying to bypass them all you have to do is unplug it.
Dome light override. The headlight switch that's supposed to turn on my domelight doesn't work. I already have a switch, heatshrink, soldering iron, and wire around... so I'm just going to wire this switch into the wires from the door plugs so I have dome lights. I would wire into the wires from the headlight switch but there's no slack at all... Plus, I'm going to put the switch on the center console somewhere so my passenger can get to it as well. It's kind of ghetto but not having a dome light sucks really bad. (Don't have a buzzer either, so doing it this way won't turn on my door buzzer.)
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:38 AM
  #33894  
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From: Manhattan, Kansas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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So I ordered an SYE, and went ahead and got the 31 tooth Speedo gear while I was doing it... however it didn't work when I just put it in in place of the other.. is there something I'm supposed to do for the installation aside from just throwing it in there?
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #33895  
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From: Pahrump, NV
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by arorton
So I ordered an SYE, and went ahead and got the 31 tooth Speedo gear while I was doing it... however it didn't work when I just put it in in place of the other.. is there something I'm supposed to do for the installation aside from just throwing it in there?
The mech needs to be clocked in the tcase correctly. Easiest, safest way, unhook dshaft, have someone inside giving gas in 1st/drive. Turn connector till speedo works.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #33896  
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From: hambleton, wv
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Do this:

Make sure breaks are adjusted properly.

Make sure there is no air in the lines.

If it still does not hold pressure and it barely did before I'd assume the master cylinder is bad.


I recently had this issue with mine and after replacing everything re bleeding and adjusting. I ended up swapping the master and it works way better than before. Much firmer pedal.

I would pump then bleed pump til pressure then bleed and it has brakes n all just the peddle almost hits floor.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #33897  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by dwilly

I would pump then bleed pump til pressure then bleed and it has brakes n all just the peddle almost hits floor.
I would recommend master cylinder.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #33898  
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From: Ellensburg, WA
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix
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I'd like to keep the top on, haha. Nice idea though.
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #33899  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by xj1119
I'd like to keep the top on, haha. Nice idea though.
But topless is the way to go. I promise!
Old Jul 30, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #33900  
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From: Greensboro NC
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Anyone else had front end noise when installing a rebuilt front drive shaft after a rc 4.5.....sounds like a faint clicking at ten mph....drive shaft angle? 97 cherokee....have swapped front and rear shaft noise still ther. Removed front shaft only time it stops or in 4w

Last edited by PoorManXj; Jul 30, 2013 at 02:31 PM.



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