Nothing hard about the cap at all. Two screws off, two screws on. Rotor is keyed, can't screw it up.

The only 'tricky' part I guess is remembering where all the wires go. My suggestion is to use a Sharpie to label the posts on the cap as you remove everything, set the new and old on a table and orient them identically, label the posts on the new one, and install it.

 

I unscrew the old cap, pivot it up, screw down the new cap, and move the wires one by one so I can't make a mistake.

 

Wow I got it. All I did was pull the muffler down and it loosened it and it came right off.

 

Okay thanks! I thought you could mess up the rotor like that it had to go in just the right way. Thats a good idea Thanks again!

 

But I'm replacing the wires too so how would that work?

Would you replace the wires one at a time while on the cap? Same with plugs?

Thanks

 

Ever played connect the dots?

 

Yes, I would. Just keep it simple.

 

Is that the one from the wayne man book? (I think I spelled it wrong) I heard that that one had the screws wrong and so it had you doing it out of order?
Here's one that I was told was correct I don't know thats way I am asking also its my daily driver so I cant really do it wrong

 

I'm gonna do it this way no need to worry about time I just need to do it right the first time no need to try and figure out which goes where just one at a time deal Thanks!

 

Well... On my 97 xj 3 in on 31s, I put new front brakes and calipers, rear brakes new fluid took rotors and a drum off my other jeep to put on it and we blead the brakes over and over and they still go to the floor. So my question is why do they still have little pressure and prettying no brakes?

 

Did you adjust your rear brake shoes out? Pedal will never get hard, if they are loose.

 

Also, what procedure did you do to bleed the lines

 

Do this:

Make sure breaks are adjusted properly.

Make sure there is no air in the lines.

If it still does not hold pressure and it barely did before I'd assume the master cylinder is bad.


I recently had this issue with mine and after replacing everything re bleeding and adjusting. I ended up swapping the master and it works way better than before. Much firmer pedal.

 

Installing bumper tomorrow. It ties in to the steering box on the driver side and the same layout of holes on the passenger side. So it adds 3 extra bolts per side. However my oem bumper is missing one bolt per side. Does anyone have the bolt size for the oem bumper brackets or should I buy more? Additionally, can I re use the steering box bolts or do I need new ones? Do I need the same size bolts for the passenger side as well? What size are the steering box bolts?

All for an 01 XJ. 10 points for whoever answers this one.

 

Steering box: 7/16 4" 14 (3)
Passenger side: same, 3.5" long (3)
Grade 8 7/16 washers (9)
Grade 8 7/16 lock washer (3)
Grade 8 7/16 14 nut (3)

Bumper bolts are M10x1.5mm. Pick whatever length you want. The two on top of each other up front new washers and nuts. The third hole on each side threads into a weld but in the body.