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Running a mopar filter atm but pureone purolator is a great filter. And these 4.0's like rotella, I prefer the 10w30. IIRC, rotella t5 is semi synthetic and t6 is full synthetic. I chose neither and went with the standard engine oil (technically diesel oil). It also has a high zinc content.
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
Alright, so somebody tell me if i'm correct here. When i installed my lift, I was a cheap *** and never bought adjustable uppers or lowers, and just decided to get drop brackets so i could use my stock control arms. Now after the lift the steering wheel doesnt return back to center on its own when driving down the road. Is it the Caster that's causing this? I've got plenty of room for the lower control arms to go forward on the drop brackets (at least an inch or more), would adjusting my lowers fix it? I had an alignment and all they did was straighten the steering wheel and set my tie rod correctly.
I've also got a bad wheel bearing on the driver side if that changes things. The specs on the drop brackets also say the control arm length at 4.5" should be the exact same as stock and thats what i'm sitting at right meow.
I've also got a bad wheel bearing on the driver side if that changes things. The specs on the drop brackets also say the control arm length at 4.5" should be the exact same as stock and thats what i'm sitting at right meow.
Last edited by xj_maniac_newb; Mar 14, 2013 at 07:58 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
I've done the googling, just want some insight from others. The toe is fine, as is the track bar alignment. And the fact that my control arms are right where they're supposed to be is what perplexes me. According to the numbers, everything should be up to spec. Hell my steering angles are even near perfect with the Track bar and drag link nearly perfectly parrallel. Just doesnt make any sense.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Fountain Inn, SC
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
Not sure about the horn. First thing i'd check would be the vacuum ball behind the passenger side of the front bumper, then the vacuum lines. Easy way to check them is spray em with starting fluid while the engine is running.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Fountain Inn, SC
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
well...when i bought the jeep that ball wasnt even attached to the bumper, it was just sitting in there....maybe it got damaged? but my vents work fine...
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,322
Likes: 6
From: Summerville, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 cyl.
Mine isnt attached either, doubt it got damaged. If the vents are working maybe its a fuse. I wouldnt go straight for the clockspring from the start, check the easiest stuff first.




