So I am needin quite a few parts for my jeep, and instead of picking em up along the way I thought Id pick up a parts jeep, $300-$600 range depending what all was left. Well I found this one it is only missing bumpers, and has steels instead of these rims. Body is rusted pretty badly so it will be scrapped. He is asking $900. Is it worth that? has 120k 4x4 all in running order, Interior is suppose to be bout spotless... I will part everything I dont need in order to make my money back, and maybe a lil more. Its a 4 hour round trip to get it, bout $100 in diesel to drag it back.

 

If it still had the wheels on it then maybe... without the wheels I wouldn't give more than 500 bucks for it.

 

Really $500? He is stuck on "the motor,trans, transfercase are worth that" speech. Its been on CL a while! Ima keep trying him then lol. Prolly wont find a middle ground.

 

Lol seriously, that be awesome to see. Maybe clogged muffler

 

What really matters is, what parts do you need? Are they there? Do they cost more than 500?

 

Steelies, $750. tell him those things might be good but the rust will cause more in labor. say you'll come cash in hand, if he says no say fine have fun finding a buyer

 

Transfer Case
-NV231 Part-Time (Command-Trac) - 2.2 Pints (1.0L) Dexron III/Mercon

-NV242 Full-Time (Selec-Trac) – 2.85 Pints (1.3L) Dexron III/Mercon

Front Axle
-Dana 30 - 2.5 Pts (1.2L) SAE 75W-90

Rear Axle

-When equipped, Trac-Lok Limited Slip rear axles require 4 ounces of Friction Modifier Additive

-Dana 35 - 3.5 Pints (1.66L) SAE 75W-90
-Dana 44 - 4.0 Pints (1.89L) SAE 75W-90
-Chrysler 8.25 - 4.4 Pints (2.0L) SAE 75W-90

For towing and off-road use SAE 75-140 synthetic

 

$750 sounds good to me, still gotta get some funds anyway. But I only need hatch, hood, fenders, few interior pieces, windshield, think thats all lol. Rest will be parted out.

 

A rusted body isn't worth squat to me. Sure, a good running motor, transmission and t-case are worth 500 bucks but I'll pay 500 bucks because that's all I'm getting... the body is junk.

If you get it, let me know. I have a buddy looking for a rear door panel out of a limited. I'm not sure it's the right color though.

 

^ wanna say its black interior.

 

I agree on the rusted body is worthless. I wish I can nab a cheap xj but here, everything is 1k and over.

Unless it can drive there is always pa I guess

 

Best head gasket to use? 2000 XJ

 

I use Felpro... but not the 0331 head.

 

Google is failing me.

What are my options for TC replacement on my '88 (Renix) MJ? What are my bolt-in choices, and what are my alternatives? If it doesn't bolt in, what would it take to make it work? And finally, what are the benefits of one TC over another?

 

If you have a Spicer double-cardan shaft (I assume so lol) the sky's the limit. Renix XJ transfer cases and YJ units will be a direct bolt-on, but any Jeep NP231 or NP242 will work.

Considerations include input gears since your AW4 is probably 21-spline, but they are interchangeable with NP231 and NP242s. See more here: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...nput_gears.htm

Also there's the matter of that vacuum switch. I'm reasonably certain that the vaccuum switch fits into the boss on later year NP231s.

Or you could run a twin-stick D300.