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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #34021  
DieselD's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Cherryokee
Twice in three days, while driving my '99, the "Check Gauges" indicator lit up. I saw my voltmeter peg to the left, or 9VDC (because it can't go to 0VDC). It normally indicates straight up the middle at ~14VDC. The Jeep keeps running and driving without hesitation or stumble when this occurs. An external voltmeter connected to the battery posts with engine running, e-brake set, shifter in D and electrical system under normal typical load conditions (running lamps lit, radio on and vent blower on #2) indicates ~13.5VDC and the gauge diagnostic functions perfectly. I pulled and cleaned the connectors to the ECM after the first incident and everything appeared to return to normal - until today's event. I need one of you gurus out there to give me a couple of hints as to what to check next. Note that I own a factory manual and I understand the electrical schema so don't be afraid to talk tech with me. At this point I'm beginning to fear the potential loss of my ECM. What say you, oh-wiser-than-me CF Veterans?
Originally Posted by bheath

sorry sir. you may have your thread back now.

He was just mad his question got passed up with "fashion talk". Lol

Now it's been reposted... kinda.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #34022  
DieselD's Avatar
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Just went outside to roll up my windows and realized my power lock aren't working.

I could here a clicking from the passenger side door. I heard the switch thing that's in there is a control module for the power locks.

Does it have anything to do with the windows or just the locks?

I've had the whole "windows only work from the drivers seat" problem. I was wondering if the two could be related.
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:46 PM
  #34023  
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 663
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From: Hahira,Ga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I'm surprised the flashlight doesn't just stick to the console. It's all frickin gummy and dirty.
It defiantly not in peak condition ATM. Driving with no hatch/hatch glass brought alot of dirt in from dirt roads, driving in rain pulled the rain in and wet it... So ya I just haven't had time to take it out and clean it since its now my Dd. since the car blew up..:/
Old Aug 1, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #34024  
Call-_me-Jordan's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 663
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From: Hahira,Ga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I've never seen a forum where people get so butt-hurt over off-topic just a minute. It's not like the people who need help can't post and talk along or around with us.. Just my lil 2 cents.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #34025  
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 317
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Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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hey guys, i bought another 99 sport (this makes three) last week cheap from a friend, the motor is knocking pretty good but still runs, just wondering if any of you smarter-than-me types could "confirm" that it is bad i.e. needs rebuild. i was told piston skirt problems, read something about piston slap, and then saw something about carbon build up as best case scenario. if the link doesn't work i'll try to fix it. just trying to learn whenever i can.

edit: video link at bottom under photo

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http://s1143.photobucket.com/user/ti...1f78b.mp4.html

Last edited by T1XJ; Aug 2, 2013 at 07:29 AM.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 08:31 AM
  #34026  
19964.0's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: middlebury vt
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl
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Okay so I've got a 96 cherokee SE figured out the fuse for the radio and DC outlet was blown so I replaced it and it blew again checked all the wires I could through where the radio goes and on the outlet coudn't find anything I'll figure it out some other time I didn't have a diagram for the fuse box either looked online too. But my real question is while I was down there I unplugged that ******! buzzer that buzz's whenu open the door when I started it up after the key was hard to turn so I put it back in and it still is hard to turn starts fine but it's kinda hard to turn any ideas?

Thanks!
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:39 AM
  #34027  
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From: USA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
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When checking the tranny fluid level,
is it ok to check it in PARK (while running)
instead of NEUTRAL (while running)

Any difference?
I checked in PARK (not NEUTRAL) and want to know if I should check it again.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:42 AM
  #34028  
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
When checking the tranny fluid level,
is it ok to check it in PARK (while running)
instead of NEUTRAL (while running)

Any difference?
I checked in PARK (not NEUTRAL) and want to know if I should check it again.
I always check it in park. Never had an issue.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:50 AM
  #34029  
wiggles's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
When checking the tranny fluid level,
is it ok to check it in PARK (while running)
instead of NEUTRAL (while running)

Any difference?
I checked in PARK (not NEUTRAL) and want to know if I should check it again.
Originally Posted by bheath

I always check it in park. Never had an issue.
It doesn't pump fluid in park but does in neutral that I'm aware so that could change the reading
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #34030  
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by wiggles

It doesn't pump fluid in park but does in neutral that I'm aware so that could change the reading
Possibly. For the ones i've checked both ways, never saw a difference. But im deff not a trans expert.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:11 AM
  #34031  
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
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From: The 219
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by bheath
Possibly. For the ones i've checked both ways, never saw a difference. But im deff not a trans expert.
It is best if you run it through all the gears first, then put in neutral and pull the parking brake on level ground, for the best reading
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #34032  
bheath's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by trojanchrokee

It is best if you run it through all the gears first, then put in neutral and pull the parking brake on level ground, for the best reading
Don't forget to drive 2.7 miles (no more/no less), honk the horn 4 times draggin the last one out for 3secs, buckle all seat belts and open the glove box. Those are critical!
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:40 AM
  #34033  
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 82
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From: The 219
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by bheath
Don't forget to drive 2.7 miles (no more/no less), honk the horn 4 times draggin the last one out for 3secs, buckle all seat belts and open the glove box. Those are critical!
you forgot that you have to turn on your right blinker and turn the wheel all the way to the left! that's probably why you are not getting a good reading!
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #34034  
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: JOCO
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Originally Posted by trojanchrokee

you forgot that you have to turn on your right blinker and turn the wheel all the way to the left! that's probably why you are not getting a good reading!
I thought i forgot something.
Old Aug 2, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #34035  
ccooper1234's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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OK I'm bringing the red optima back to the parts store to get load tested and If its bad I want to replace it with a yellow top or blue top. Which should I get



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