Trust me don't do it, I disconnected my battery wile the engine was running trying to sort out high voltage issues. It blew out my head lights (like a camera flash) and wiper motor in the 2 seconds I disconnected the battery cable with the engine running. Funny thing is wipers and headlights were off at the time. My high voltage issue ended up being the neutral safety switch on the transmission being full of mud causing a ecu to overcharge the battery and output 19 volts at idle. Replaced ecu, alternator, battery, tore out all the wiring harnesses and transmission neutral switch was the last thing I checked. Cleaned out the mud, filled with die-electric grease and no issues since.

 

Good to know. Been doing that ever since I started messin with cars. About 25 some years. I will definitely keep all this knowledge when trouble shooting in the future. Learn something new everyday.

 

Any of the renix gurus I have some questions.......

1988 Xj 4.0 4x4

I've been trying to get my a/c vents to work properly. While idling in any gear with A/C (ON HIGH MAX) I get pretty hard pressure out the dash vents facing the passengers AND the defrost vents. Under just about any throttle it slows drastically down on the passenger vents and blows pretty hard out of the defrost vents.

I started looking under the hood at the firewall. There is 2 plastic lines coming out of the firewall. One was a purple color and the other one is black and goes all the to the vacuum ball. On mine the purple line was plugged with a screw and the black line had a hairline crack near the firewall. I plugged the hairline crack and still had the same issues with the vents.

Also I see there is several colored vacuum lines going down to the axle I think. (Pics included). The yellow line is cracked right at the rubber grommet.

Here are my questions:

Does anyone have pictures of where the factory vacuum lines go for the A/C?

Where does the purple plastic line from the firewall go?

Would the yellow plastic line that's broke effect my A/C at all or just the vacuum actuated 4x4?

Any and all help is appreciated. Sorry for the bad pics.

 

The blue line in the pictures is also disconnected. I just plugged it into the purple one to see if it had any change during my tests.

 

Purple to heater control valve.

All those others are for your front axle disconnect.

 

Any help on this?

 

Same here, the guy at Advance says his dad works at the water plant and they can process antifreeze if you dump in the sewer drain.

I'm going to call around to see who will take it.

 

Okay, so we have no spark and (possibly) no fuel. I've sprayed starter spray into the carb while trying to start the jeep but there was no change. This makes sense if there is no spark. After all, the starter spray needs a spark too! lol This would also, for the moment, set aside the possibility of a fuel problem since the engine should have at least started for a moment or two from the spray start. (If I can get the spark and it still doesn't start then we would then move to the fuel system for troubleshooting, correct?) So the question is: would a bad CPS cause a no spark? Thankfully, it's no hard to get to.

 

You're going to have to find the temp sensor on another Jeep.

You can wire it up. There will be diagrams online. Plenty write-ups.

 

Anyone have a link to replace just the CV joint on a front driveshaft? Everything I'm finding is for the ball in the double cardan joint. My ***** are fine.

 

Yeah guessing the harness would make it a heck of a lot easier but was guessing it can be done.

Looks like you can get the temp sensor from an auto parts store for $15 or so. Is the part alone enough (ie is there a bracket I need from a donor jeep or anything)?

Thanks!

 

Er, the ball is the only "special" part of the CV shaft. There are 3 U joints, the centering ball, and the slip yoke. What part are you talking about?

 

I guess the slip yoke then. Mine is shot and won't hold grease

 

That would explain why it was plugged. I have to heater control valve. OK I'm going to replace all plastic lines I can to the vC ball and see if that works.

cruiser remember when we discussed that I completely closed that screw on the side of the tb? You said if I closed it off and Its idling perfect then I'm getting air from somewhere else. Hopefully I'll notice a change in idle afterwards and I'll back that screw out a bit?

 

I want to night shade my tails, corners, and blinkers. While I had em off, and since I had a blown bulb I Was wandering if I need one of those LED resistors? If so can someone link a walk through? I believe it'll flash like a epileptic crack addict without it. And where do I get the bulb numbers?