You have me looking at these, do you have one

 

I use them in all my vehicles. My wifes xj has a 58 group size but for my xj i plan on running a 65 or 27s. I also install them all day long at walmart. Im a tech in the tire and lube shop. Been there 5 years.

Heres what you need to know, for a warranty on the battery you need to have the proper battery for the vehicle per the everstart book at the store.

Heres how to get around that, buy whatever size battery you want, find a year make and model that uses that size battery. And if you have issues in the future you bring it back for a warranty swap, they will ask year make and model and then your good to go. (They will not warranty it if you do not have the right year make and model for the battery you buy.)

The 65s is in many v8 ford f150s, another larger CA battery is the maxx 27s. That is used in many years of the v8 dodge durango and rams.

 

So a group 65 would work fine with no other things needed?

 

Youd have to check the size. I belive if a 34 fits then a 65 should. Im sure you can find the measurments online for a group 34 and 65. In my 90 im positive a 34 will fit. Havnt looked to see if they are the same size. I know they are pretty close to being the same but not 100%. As far as needing anything extra you should not. Unless the posts are crossed oposite of the way your original battery is set up you should be fine.

 

No, maximum size for the spec is 2" wider http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html

 

Ok so since group 34 and 58 are close in size what would be better out of the two

 

I just purchased my first Jeep EVER, and Im excited. i live in the desert where there is alot of "whoomping" room.

I just purchased a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a I6 4x4. When i bought the vehicle I knew it had a blown head gasket and figured it would be an easy fix. I started ripping under the hood and started thinking of what else could have gone wrong by driving the vehicle with a blown head gasket. (the guy I bought the vehicle from said that as soon as he knew that he had a blown head gasket he stopped driving it.)
The Jeep still turns on with no problem, it's driveable, the motor sounds fine when turned on but has a very rough idle and the rpm's stay kinda high for a little bit.

I guess my question is, what should I look out for?

I am going to replace the head gasket myself, and I feel confident I can do it, but is their any precautions I should take since the milky oil is everywhere?
Also, do you recommend I change out any other parts since Im already tearing into it? Push rods? Rocker arms? Springs/ valves?

Any Tips would be appreciated.

 

How many miles are on it? You should definatly consider getting all the oil/coolant out of both systems. You could drain the radiator, pull the top hose from the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat, then bolt the housing and hose back on. Top the radiator off with distilled water and run the jeep but not for long, just long enough to circulate the water. You could do a couple drain and fills with running the jeep for only a minute or two in between. This would help remove the nasty coolant. Just throwing ideas out there and perhaps someone could back up some info or lend advice. You could before or after use seafoam via the gas tank, intake, and straight into the crank case if you wanted to. Help clean out any carbon buildup and remove any corrosion. After running it for a few minutes (follow the instructions on the can) to circulate the seafoam, shut the jeep off and drain the oil. If you do use seafoam use it before you flush the coolant so if any seafoam gets in the coolant, you will flush it afterwards. If your going to remove the head its a good idea to atleast purchase a new head gasket (obviously), valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket (unless you remove the head with the manifolds hooked up, still a good idea to replace the gasket), cyl head bolts, new thermostat with gasket, new waterpump, serpentine belt... Its really not a good idea to run the jeep at all since coolant is mixing with the oil which negatively affects its viscosity which can lead to increased friction causing excessive heat. Over heating is typically the #1 cause of blown headgaskets which is why its a good idea to replace the waterpump and thermostat. Are there any coolant leaks from the radiator? Fans working properly? If you dont want to run it any more then theres no need to flush the radiator and use seafoam, just drain the coolant and oil. Highly recommended to perform these tasks after the headgasket has been replaced.

 

The Grand Cherokee has 225,XXX miles on it, and everything else is in great condition. I bought the gaskets, for the head, valve cover, Intake/ exhaust, and a new thermostat (better safe than sorry). Since I already took off the head, I was wondering if their was a way to clean the block from all the milky oil. I was thinking of just spraying air into the oil ducts to give it some sort of clean, but what is Sea foam??? Ill look into it.

The radiator wasn't leaking...... lol.... now that I think about it their wasn't any coolant in it to leak.......lol.... I need to get back to you on that.

Thanks straightsixjeep for the tip.

New water pump and belts for my new baby, GC...lol.

 

With the head off you could spray some sort of cleaner into the oil passages of the block but you should most likely remove the oil pan first so the cleaner can run out. If you do this pick up a new oil pan gasket. Wouldnt hurt to get rtv blue for things such as the waterpump and get rtv ultra black for sections of the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, or leftover for differential cover gaskets when you change out the gear oil eventually. Sea foam is used to remove carbon buildup and what not, Id imagine it would help get coolant/corrosion out of the oil passages, once again hopefully others will chime in. Either look up in the factory service manual the instructions for checking over your valve train. If you have the $ drop it off at a cylinder head shop to be gone over, cleaned, and pressure tested.

 

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a sound deadening material for the floor of my XJ. I know it is never going to be perfectly quiet so if you want to troll me just save your energy. But I'm going to bedline my floor today or tomorrow and I am looking for a material that doesn't have adhesive on the back of it.

My plan for winter or for long trips is to have the bedlined floors, sound deadener/insulation and then my carpet on top. I want something with out adhesive because for summer, I want to take my doors off and just want the carpet out in general so it doesn't get thrashed. And I figured the sound material would be easier to just pick up and remove instead of peeling it off every time... I know the stuff has to be out there but I can't find it for the life of me. Any help would be appreciated. Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas!

 

Well the according to that measurement chart a maxx 78s would be bigger then the 34s in CA i believe. But then you would need to buy the little side post adapters but they are cheap. The 78s is like 780+ CA i think. A 34 group size is still a larger battery, the 58 is smaller than the 34.

 

Is this an ok place to put a fuse? I really don't have many options here. I would just set it there and probably put a zip tie around it, not screw it into the battery, of course.

 

Sure

 

Zip tie it youre clear