Ok so I have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport 4.0 i6 and a aw4 transmission, a while back I had a little knock in my flex plate, just a loose bolt, now for some strange reason when I fixed my exhaust, I hear this terrible knock for that General area again, but it's not consistent and it goes away after a while in park and after somewhere around 20mph, so my question is. Is it the flex plate again or something different?

 

I believe the gas is draining back (98 xj) out of the lines which makes me have to cycle the pump to get the fuel pressure up again. Question is, what keeps the fuel from draining back to the tank? Is it a internal valve in the fuel pump itself or some other thing in the fuel line? The motor will just keep cranking over, But if I cycle the key a second time, It fires right up.

 

98's have a tendency for the check valve inside the fuel pump to go bad. Thats what your issue is. Only way to fix it is to replace the pump assembly because it's all one piece.

 

yup that's very common problem on 97-98 XJs

 

Very common on all of them. On the older models you could put an inline check valve between the assembly and fuel filter, but you can't do that with the newer ones because the FPR is in the tank, so it can't bleed off excess pressure buildup after the inline valve.

 

Hey guys. I have a heater core and evap core coming in any day now, the heater core is definitely bad so I am doing both while I am in there.

My a/c has been out since last summer and I was reading that I would be best served to swap out the accumulator and liquid line while I am at it. My question is, should I swap the condenser too or can I leave it? Some are saying if the system is empty long enough pretty much everything needs to be replaced, but I don't want to mess with the condenser if I don't have to.

Another question, is there a way to test the compressor to know if it is working correctly or not before I take it in to get the vacuum pulled and recharged?

Here is a link to my A/C blowing up thread last August : https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wei...scribe-198253/

 

Hello, I am wondering if the job of removing, measuring, replacing and checking proper tension on my 2001 Jeep Gr Cherokee Valve Springs could be the source of my upper engine noise. Worn Valve Springs?

I have replaced rocker arms, proper torque, lifters seem good (no movement on push down), Replaced 6 month old carbon-ed up spark plugs and checked coil pack, all firing, (misfire code, idle real bad, solved now) Checked fuel injectors volts and ohms (good), Did 5 min. oil motor flush, drained added fresh, been running Marvels through fuel with reg/premium fuel. Had her purring like a kitten, for 12 days, then clank clank again, sounds like rocker arms bolts loosened, need blue lock tight on them, pull valve cover, bolts are fine.

My Jeep has 244K on her all in all she purrs. I keep leaning towards the valve springs (maybe all of it keepers, valve train components) Because THE PUSH RODS have GONE THROUGH the Rocker Arms TWICE. The push rods were never bent. Am I just getting rocker arms that have weak spots at the push rod spots? Not likely, I'd think.. But I don't get it.

MY QUESTION: Do the Valve Springs lose there ability to perform and need replacing? I'm at my 244K miles on her. Haynes manual covers some replacing necessity.

Thank you for your time

 

Anyone know off the top of their head the gear ratio of a XJ D44 with a stock limited slip? I know most are 3.54 but don't know if the limited slip changes anything.

 

D44 means it probably has tow package. I'd guess 3.73, but you'd have to jack it up and count rotations (or teeth) to confirm

 

I don't have it, waiting on a text from a seller who's selling a D44 and D30 with matching gears but he doesn't post the gearing and would prefer just the 44 since my 30 is perfectly fine. Hoping it's 3.54

 

My MJ44 was 3.54, so I might be entirely wrong about the likelihood. Hope it works out for you, bud

 

Thank you, at worst I might just take the guy up on both axles. He's only asking for $300 obo on the 44 and non-disco d30.

 

U can sell the d30 for 150 if worse come to worse

 

I'd take both. I always said the CAD D30 was fine... until mine failed on the MJ. Failed on my YJ, too. I'm looking at '92+ for the lady's XJ just so I don't have to touch the front axle

 

Having the Np242 is nice since they didn't come with them. I never had to deal with the vacuum 2pc axle issues. Hopefully this guy will respond to me soon, he might be working, not all of us are college students.