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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:50 PM
  #49051  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Automatic transmission.

When I shift from park to drive I hear the engine rev up a little higher than I remember. Also when I shift to reverse. Only when the engine is cold. Maybe I'm thinking too hard but it just seems to be revving higher than I remember.
When's the last time you cleaned your throttle body and IAC?
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 10:05 PM
  #49052  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 L
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
When's the last time you cleaned your throttle body and IAC?
Not since I bought her with 163k. Ill hafta look up how to do it. Hand tools in my apartment with limited access to garage.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 10:20 PM
  #49053  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Not since I bought her with 163k. Ill hafta look up how to do it. Hand tools in my apartment with limited access to garage.
There's your next project.

Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling.

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Revised 10-6-2014
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 11:12 PM
  #49054  
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Excellent. Thank you cruiser and tjwalker. Next project indeed.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 11:18 PM
  #49055  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider
Excellent. Thank you cruiser and tjwalker. Next project indeed.
It's pretty easy to do. Just make sure to follow up with a new TB gasket, only a few bucks at most parts houses
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 11:22 PM
  #49056  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
It's pretty easy to do. Just make sure to follow up with a new TB gasket, only a few bucks at most parts houses
Most definitely. I would do it tomorrow but I have yet to find auto sized torx set..I've looked a few places for one large enough to take off the seat belt but no dice.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 11:24 PM
  #49057  
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Originally Posted by gunmetal_nightrider

Most definitely. I would do it tomorrow but I have yet to find auto sized torx set..I've looked a few places for one large enough to take off the seat belt but no dice.
Autozone should have them in their tool section for about $14. It'll be a 1/4-3/8 socket set with a 1/4 screw handle. I've got a couple sets of them and they are fine.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 01:29 AM
  #49058  
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Model: Cherokee
Default Fender Mount

What do you call the chasis part that the fender and header panel mount to? Can this be removed if its dented due to an impact? My cherokee took damage to the headlight and fender + bumper on the passenger side. Everything seems easily removed except the part that the fender mounts to.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 02:37 AM
  #49059  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by spauldo8426
What do you call the chasis part that the fender and header panel mount to? Can this be removed if its dented due to an impact? My cherokee took damage to the headlight and fender + bumper on the passenger side. Everything seems easily removed except the part that the fender mounts to.
Inner fender, non removable on a xj. You'll have to fix it by hand.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #49060  
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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I'm trying to replace my stock track bar. The cotter pin for the tie rod end broke and is now stuck inside the castle nut.

Can I just the tie rod end with an angle grinder where the bolt part of it is and punch it up through the bracket mounting hole?
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 04:55 PM
  #49061  
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From: SATX
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
I'm trying to replace my stock track bar. The cotter pin for the tie rod end broke and is now stuck inside the castle nut. Can I just the tie rod end with an angle grinder where the bolt part of it is and punch it up through the bracket mounting hole?
Can you shove it out with a punch and hammer?
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:00 PM
  #49062  
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Originally Posted by gigemjeep
Can you shove it out with a punch and hammer?
There is no room at all to knock the pin out.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:13 PM
  #49063  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
There is no room at all to knock the pin out.
May be able to break off both ends of pin then remove castle nut by force. It should distort what remains of pin and be able to pass it.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:17 PM
  #49064  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
May be able to break off both ends of pin then remove castle nut by force. It should distort what remains of pin and be able to pass it.
I tried that. Can't get to the back side of the pin because it's inside the track bar bracket.
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:26 PM
  #49065  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Drill it out?



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