Back to the wipers again...does anyone know where the ground is for the front wiper motor?

Whenever they go out, I try to pull it apart to get a meter on the plug but by the time I disassemble everything, the motor has power again.

One day when it stopped working I just hit the metal next to the plastic cowl and they came back on. So I really think its just a bad connection, not a bad motor.


I hate diagnosing intermittent problems

 

Posting here because I hear a lot of questions about these:

I emailed Truck-Lite to ask if a heated version of the 5x7 light will hit the market any time soon. Here's the reply.

 

Test the CPS.

Ever done Tip 4?

 

R & D Development?

Is that like the Department of Redundancy Department?

 

When I talk to them on the phone they told me they had no plans on making 5x7 heated T/L.

 

I have a 2001 cherokee sport. When I turn my lights on the driver side running lights and my license plate lights don't work. I know they all run into one fuse but when I replace the fuse with a higher amp they keep blowing. Is this a common problem? If so how do I fix it?

 

First, don't use higher than recommended fuses. The size is chosen based on the safe working load of the wires it protects. If you allow more current through with a bigger fuse, you introduce the possibility of an electrical fire.

If the fuse is blowing, there's a problem. Cleaning the contacts and checking the light sockets for damage is the first step.

If that doesn't help, break out a multimeter and figure out at what point things stop behaving as they should.

 

I'm new to this forum and have searched but found no result I was wondering if anyone has used this driveshaft setup yet I'm running around 5 inches of lift on a 96 Cherokee with automatic trans I'm having vibrations above 50 mph. I want to get out of installing a sye and was curious if this would be effective way or should I just save for the sye and cv driveshaft? Thanks for your input

 

What are we looking at?

 

it is a cv driveshaft that doesn't have the need to install a slip yoke eliminator. it slides on to the existing tailshaft of the transfercase. so basically a regular shortened drive shaft with the constant velocity joint integrated onto it

 

Is that all that is different? And with the Dana 44 and Ford 9 inch being about 6 inches wider than the original axles will that be a problem anywhere?

 

I never used it but apparently it can slip off when off-roading. Thats just hearsay. Best to just do a H&T if you don't want to open the TC

 

I have about 10000 miles on my tatton cv slip shaft. It works great so far.

 

Got a 98 with mid frame stiffeners, long arms and soon to be front frame stiffeneners. I'm looking to put in a roll cage sometime next year and cut out the roof like a moon roof. In the mean time I kind of feel like cutting just the front section of my roof out like a normal sunroof on a car. Anyone think I'll have any frame twisting problems with just a 3ft or so long cut that goes each side of the roof rack? Also doors are off from March til October and no its not my dd, just trail rig and nice day rider.

 

Thanks this is just the feedback I'm looking for. What size lift are you running?