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Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:01 AM
  #47581  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by judy1
HA!...KISS...in the Navy the last S was definitely not Silly...lol! As for being PC, well...good luck with that !
I gave him three days

Originally Posted by judy1
Back to my Jeep and its steering column wandering...tire pressure is at 30psi. How do I put into a word or words the sound turning the steering column makes when I use the vehicle first time of the day? Not a clunk, clink, or clack...when idling in park I turn the wheel L & R and it sounds like an old spring stretching...you can chuckle, I am!...and if you can interpret that description, well, please share! Then, usually after the first drive the column doesn't make that sound anymore
Spring stretching I'm not familiar with, but my XJ made a sort of wheezing sound in the cold for the first few turns. The issue is caused by a dry/cold rubber boot against the firewall that the steering shaft goes through. A little bit of silicone spray will help that out. It's nothing to be worried about.

Originally Posted by judy1
tho there's still that bit of play/delay in the wheel. Someone mentioned his steering may need R&R...how does one know the difference between loose bolts or bad steering?
Aside from the bolt that affixes the track bar (aka panhard rod) to the front axle, the steering is mostly ball joints in the form of tie rod ends, there aren't any bolts per se. The basic method of troubleshooting is to have someone sit inside and turn the wheel left to right while you take a look under the front end and look for a moving part connecting to a not-moving part. That sloppy component is the culprit.

This is from a Jeep TJ, but the parts that matter in an XJ are identical:

Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:20 AM
  #47582  
DESERTXJ206's Avatar
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by salad

Yeah it wouldn't be 100% lol
Pressurized it with the hose. Definitely leaks in the cab haha. Well guess a heater core will be ordered shortly. Dang.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:27 AM
  #47583  
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From: Lapeer, Murder Mitten
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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@ Judy: Unfortunatly the infamous mechanic Ben Dover works everywhere. A pre inspection by you with help of a friend should help narrow it down.

Starting at the pitman arm, think of it as links of a chain. Does the arm move a lot before the drag link, right wheel before the tie rod/left wheel.
And just like the doctor, don't be afraid of 2nd/3rd opinion.
Maybe post general area you live, maybe someone near can recomend a shop if you are unable to do the repairs yourself.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 10:30 AM
  #47584  
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Question stop leak questions

my jeep has over heated a few times in the last couple of years, nothing wrong just been tampered with. BUT this last time caused transmission to leak. Can't afford to get transmission fixed so I purchased some Lucas stop leak, and bars stop leak, not knowing which is best. So now I come home, read my Chilton, which says do not use any of this stuff. Has anyone used it anyway? What happens if I do? I have oil leaks as well. Never leaked before. Any suggestions? I love this forum, I understand it better than my Chilton! thanks to all whom may reply.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #47585  
XJPat's Avatar
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From: Central Jersey
Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 H.O.
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Originally Posted by Pamelou
my jeep has over heated a few times in the last couple of years, nothing wrong just been tampered with. BUT this last time caused transmission to leak. Can't afford to get transmission fixed so I purchased some Lucas stop leak, and bars stop leak, not knowing which is best. So now I come home, read my Chilton, which says do not use any of this stuff. Has anyone used it anyway? What happens if I do? I have oil leaks as well. Never leaked before. Any suggestions? I love this forum, I understand it better than my Chilton! thanks to all whom may reply.
I have never used the stuff but I would fix the engine oil leaks the right way. Also be careful running it so hot the transmission blows fluid, that is a great way to burn up your rig.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 01:28 PM
  #47586  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Pamelou
my jeep has over heated a few times in the last couple of years, nothing wrong just been tampered with. BUT this last time caused transmission to leak. Can't afford to get transmission fixed so I purchased some Lucas stop leak, and bars stop leak, not knowing which is best. So now I come home, read my Chilton, which says do not use any of this stuff. Has anyone used it anyway? What happens if I do? I have oil leaks as well. Never leaked before. Any suggestions? I love this forum, I understand it better than my Chilton! thanks to all whom may reply.
Basically, stop leak products harden when they're exposed to air. The problem is that there are very tiny amounts of air in your system all the time. So what happens is these snake-oil products 'cure' in all the wrong places. If you don't have money to fix something now, you don't have money to fix twice as many things in a couple months. Overheating could be a lot of cheap and simple items, like a bad radiator cap or bad thermostat... there's no reason to clog your radiator and heater core, and require an extensive flushing of the engine block and head. It's a lot of heartache and expense for no good reason.

The ONLY reason stop-leak products are useful is when you need to make it that two miles to the junk yard.

If you'd like to post some more information on your Jeeps issues we'd be happy to help. But please don't ruin it by pouring that crud into it.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 04:50 PM
  #47587  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Originally Posted by judy1
HA!...KISS...in the Navy the last S was definitely not Silly...lol! As for being PC, well...good luck with that !
Back to my Jeep and its steering column wandering...tire pressure is at 30psi. How do I put into a word or words the sound turning the steering column makes when I use the vehicle first time of the day? Not a clunk, clink, or clack...when idling in park I turn the wheel L & R and it sounds like an old spring stretching...you can chuckle, I am!...and if you can interpret that description, well, please share! Then, usually after the first drive the column doesn't make that sound anymore, tho there's still that bit of play/delay in the wheel. Someone mentioned his steering may need R&R...how does one know the difference between loose bolts or bad steering?
Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you observe. We call it noggin pokin around these parts.
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-steering-parts.jpg  
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 04:55 PM
  #47588  
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From: Saginaw Mi area
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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We who plan on keeping our vehicles for quite a few years, need good information if we do our own work. Chilton manuals are a waste of money. A Factory Service Manual bought of off of Ebay is a better investment, and can also be sold when the vehicle is sold or traded off, to recover some or even all of it's cost sometimes.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #47589  
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It occurs to me the Cherokees are not the exception, but rather follow the rule that the rear shocks will be on opposite sides (one front; one rear) of the rear axle. This makes me think it isn't an issue of fitment, but rather to counteract a rotational force Is this correct, or is there some other purpose?

Last edited by NewKindOfClown; Jan 2, 2015 at 06:19 PM.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:04 PM
  #47590  
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From: tennessee
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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swapped engines in my 99 xj. swapped all parts including distributor. put it in time crank no start. pulled plug #3 held against valve cover orange spark? could this be my problem
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:49 PM
  #47591  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by 99sporttn
swapped engines in my 99 xj. swapped all parts including distributor. put it in time crank no start. pulled plug #3 held against valve cover orange spark? could this be my problem
Yes, spark needs to be bright blue. Your valve cover isn't exactly a good ground though. Try the block.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #47592  
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From: tennessee
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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It finally started runs really really rough. I'm gonna change dist. cap and button and see if it does anything. Could a ground issue be my problem?
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:14 PM
  #47593  
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Year: 1998, 1999
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
What would happen if I put 3.55 axles behind an 4.0/ax15 on 235/75's?
I have this combo. Been awhile since I've driven a stock jeep but I really like it. My mph's read about 10mph fast. According to grimmjeeper I need 30's to make it like stock.

I got this from swapping an ax15 into an aw4 jeep. Seems like a good combo to me. Feels pretty normal.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #47594  
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From: west chester, pa
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Originally Posted by T1XJ
I have this combo. Been awhile since I've driven a stock jeep but I really like it. My mph's read about 10mph fast. According to grimmjeeper I need 30's to make it like stock. I got this from swapping an ax15 into an aw4 jeep. Seems like a good combo to me. Feels pretty normal.
interesting.. I had 30" on stock 3.07's and it was feeling normal to me.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #47595  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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I have 3.07s and 35s on a 3spd auto. It doesn't feel normal



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